Angkor

Introduction

Ta Prohm, Angkor

© twiggy

Close to a million people visit the ruins of Angkor each year and for good reason. Located to the north of Cambodia's Great Lake (Tonle Sap) and south of the Kulen Hills, not far from Siem Reap, this is without much doubt Cambodia's number one attraction and one of the most amazing places in the world. There are over a thousand temples in Angkor, ranging from little more than piles of rubble to the amazing Angkor Wat, the undisputed star of the show. This ruin is one of the most famous in the world and a trip to Cambodia is not complete without a visit.

Brief History

Once a mighty force in South East Asia, the Khmer Empire dates back to the year 802, when it was established by Jayavarman II. The city of Angkor stood at the centre of this mighty Hindu empire and grew to become the largest known pre-industrial settlement, spanning a massive 3,000 square kilometres (roughly equivalent to Los Angeles).

Angkor Wat, the main temple in the Angkor region, was built during the early 12th century by King Suryavarman II. It was built as a personal mausoleum and was dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu.

Following Suryavarman's death in the mid 12th century, the empire entered a period of strife. Ultimately this led to weakness, which was exploited by the neighbouring Cham people. The capital, Yasodharapura, was sacked and the reigning king killed. A prince, who later became King Jayavarman VII, took control of the empire and defeated the Cham. His reign was considered the greatest and during his time he had the walled city of Angkor Thom constructed. King Jayavarman also transitioned the Khmer empire from Hinduism to Buddhism, which has remained as the principle religion of Cambodia.

sweet little girl at Angkor Wat

© lil0liz

After a long period of decline, Angkor's powerful position eventually came to an end in the 15th century when Thai invaders, pushed out of China by the Mongols, sacked the city. The Khmer Empire then moved its capital to present day Phnom Penh.

Angkor was gradually taken over by the rainforest until 1860, when the French explorer Henri Mouhot came across it and alerted the world to its existence. Sadly, Westerners came and looted many of the relics from the temples for museums or private collections. A long restoration process was started in 1907 and saw large areas of forest cleared, foundations repaired and drains installed to protect the city from water damage. This process was stopped in 1970 when the Cambodian civil war made aid workers flee the country. During the civil war there was intense fighting even in the temples.

After the end of the civil war restoration work was started again. The first step was to remove the land mines that had been left among the temples. Today the process of restoration continues even with up to a million visitors a year coming to see the ancient city of Angkor.

The Temples

Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat is the largest religious monument in the world. The temple grounds are surrounded by a huge moat. The only way in is via the huge causeway over the moat. The main temple buildings are still out of view at this point, but the outer walls are visible across the moat with their distinctively shaped towers, which have been likened to giant corncobs. The grounds and most of the temple can be visited at your own pace, apart from the central tower. Here the number of visitors is restricted and you are asked to return in about 15 minutes from going up.

When people in the rest of the world say Angkor Wat, they are referring to a massive collection of temples which covers many square miles. In actual fact, Angkor Wat is the name of a single massive temple. In addition to being one of the best-preserved monuments in the area, it is undoubtedly the most grandiose. It is for this reason that this single temple gives its name to the entire area, which includes nearly a thousand temples in the surrounding 200 square kilometre or 75 square mile area.

Bakheng

Angkor - Bakbeng Temple

© Herr Bert

The Temple of Bakheng is often overlooked as most people race directly from Angkor Wat to Angkor Thom. It is located on a small hill which gives you a great view over the surrounding jungle. The climb up a 800 meter trail takes about 10 minutes. The temple is opened before sunrise and closes after sunset, making it a great place for photographers.

Pre Rup

The Pre Rup Temple is located in the eastern part of the large circuit. It has a pretty steep climb to the top of the temple, where around sunset many people will gather to watch the sunset.

Temple of Bayon

The Temple of Bayon is part of the Angkor Thom group and is famous for the four large carved smiling faces oriented on the four cardinal points (N,E,S,W), on many of the towers.

The Bayon Reflection

© geotravels

Terrace of Elephants

Also referred to as the Royal Terrace, the Terrace of Elephants considered one of the masterpieces commissioned by Jayavarman VII. Even today in its weathered state, it is impressive in a way quite different from the grandeur of the temples. The 350-metre-long (almost a quarter mile) terrace is 2.5 metres (or 8 feet) in height and features many stone carved elephants.

Terrace of the Leper King

The curious name of the Terrace of the Leper King comes from a sculpture found on top of the 3-metre-high carved terrace during the 15th century. Interestingly, the subject of the statue was neither a king nor a leper. Apparently, the discoloration and moss growth on the old statue had made it seem like it had leprosy. Terrace of the Leper King is located north of the Terrace of Elephants.

The Baphuon

Baphuon-gopura

© geotravels

The Baphuon is a hulking temple, with three levels and a rounded top. Symbolically, the state of the Baphuon is a testament to many facets of the history of Angkor Wat, both positive and negative. It began as a hugely ambitious and grand project, yet due to its sheer size, it eventually crumbled on its foundations. It was built as a Hindu temple but was converted to a Buddhist temple in the late 15th century as the religion took hold across the nation. In more recent history, it has undergone intensive restoration, a process interrupted by the chaos brought about by the Khmer Rouge. Only now is it being fully restored, paralleling the slow recovery of the Cambodian nation itself.

Ta Prohm

Ta Prohm was orginally called Rajavihara, meaning "Royal Temple". It was built by King Jayavarman VII in the late 12th and early 13th centuries. The temple conveys a sense of discovery and other-worldliness beyond that of the other temples. The main reason for this is that Ta Prohm has been spared the restoration efforts given to other temples. Be sure to take note of the battle between nature and Ta Prohm, as the jungle is slowly engulfing the temple. And yes, this is where parts of the film Tomb Raider were shot.

Phimeanakas

Phimeanakas

© geotravels

Located to the west of the Elephant Terrace and through the Royal Gardens is Phimeanakas. Phimeanakas is known as "the celestial temple," and is one of the older buildings from the old capital of Yasodharapura, which Jayavarman VII incorporated into his new capital, Angkor Thom. Phimeanakas was built at the end of the 10th century by a king named Rajendravarman II who reigned from 941 to 968. However, the temple as you see it today was rebuilt by Suryavarman II in the 12th century. He refashioned it as a three-tiered temple and crowned it with a wooden tower, which no longer exists.

Opening Hours

The visiting hours for most of the temples are from 7:30 am until 5:30 pm. Except for:

• Angkor Wat: 5:00 am until 5:30 pm
• Sras Srang: 5:00 am until 5:30 pm
• Pre Rup: 5:00 am until 7:00 pm
• Bakheng: 5:00 am until 7:00 pm

Cost

Temple of Bayon

© jlqb

Non-Cambodian visitors require an Angkor Pass to enter Angkor Archaeological Park and these can be purchased as a 1-day (USD37), 3-day (USD62), or 7-day (USD72) pass - $ cash only. The 3-day pass is valid for any 3 days within a 10 day period, while the 7-day pass is valid for any 7 days within a month. Children under 12 may enter for free by presenting their passport; ID is not requested of visitors paying the full fee. Both 3-day and 7-day options involves taking a photo which is printed on your Angkor pass. If you have a guide or driver you don't need to buy a pass for them as they most certainly will be Cambodian and can enter for free. Passes issued after 17:00 each day can be used to enter the park without counting as use of a day on your pass. However the sale of Angkor passes end at 17:30.

Make sure you purchase your Angkor Pass only at the official APSARA ticket sales office, which has been relocated away from the entrance checkpoints. The office officially opens at 5.00am, but is in fact opened a bit earlier. The lines are split into the kind of pass you want to have (1,3 or 7 days), so check where you queue up, as you will be turned away if you are not in the correct line. Passes cannot be purchased from any other source, including tour operators. Note that Angkor passes are non-transferable, so do not purchase one second-hand off someone else. Regular checks for valid passes are performed at almost all sites within the park, including even some washrooms, so make sure you carry it with you at all times. And don't lose it! - else you'll have to go back to the ticket booth to buy another, or give up on seeing one of the world's most remarkable sights. As a last note: buying the pass, means you can also use the toilets in the park for free.

Getting There

From Siem Reap it it possible to rent a bicycle, a moto/tuk-tuk (motorcycle-taxi) with driver or a car with driver. The motos are quite nice because they offer shade in the sunny season and shelter in the rainy season. You should pay US$10-15 for an entire day starting between 7:00am and 9:00am.

By Plane

Siem Reap-Angkor International Airport (REP) has flights with Air Asia and Malaysia Airlines to Kuala Lumpur, Asiana Airlines to Seoul, Bangkok Airways to Bangkok, Cambodia Angkor Air to Phnom Penh and Ho Chi Minh City, China Eastern Airlines to Kunming and Nanning, China Southern Airlines to Guangzhou, Jetstar Asia to Singapore, Korean Air to Seoul and Busan, Lao Airlines to Luang Prabang, Silk Air to Da Nang and Singapore, and Vietnam Airlines to Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and Luang Prabang.

By Car

It is possible to rent an air conditioned car for the day in Siem Reap. This is more expensive then renting a moto/tuk-tuk although can be more comfortable during the hot dry season. Talk with your hotel about arranging a car for the day.

By Bus

The only buses in Angkor are tour buses and those are few and far between. It is best to rent a car or a moto/tuk-tuk.

Getting Around

Tour Buses

Tour buses feature guided, air-conditioned comfort but also are subject to large crowds and lack of options. Be sure you know which temples are being visited as some of the larger buses only go to the 2 or 3 main tourist attractions, and leave out important "secondary" sights. The cost is ~USD25–70/day including driver and guide.

By Car

Cars with drivers can be hired for single or more days. While all drivers are familiar with the area and happy to suggest good routes, most speak little English and are not actual tour guides. For an actual licensed tour guide, the charge varies from USD45 per day to USD50 for a driver and English speaking guide. It is customary for the drivers to ask for USD5-10 extra for trips to further temples such as the those of the Big Circuit, Banteay Srey and more for remote sites like Beng Mealea.

By Motorcycle

Motorbikes (with drivers) can be arranged through any guesthouse for about USD6–8/day. Again, drivers might ask for more to visit remote ruins. Some drivers can speak a bit of English, and can give you information about Angkor and Cambodian life. Drivers are required to be licensed and must wear their gray numbered vest while travelling within the confines of the Angkor park. The rental of motorbikes without a driver to foreigners in Siem Reap is discouraged and if stopped by a police officer, he or she will inform you that renting a motorbike is prohibited. This is not completely true. Motorbike rental places do exist in the city and their numbers are increasing. The rate varies depending on the engine size. The cheapest motorbike rental is around USD6 per day for an electric-powered. Gas-powered motorbikes start at around USD8. Always use a helmet because it is required by law and riding without it will give a police officer a reason to flag you down. Not all locals use helmets, but they do avoid being visible to police officers on duty.

By Tuk-Tuk

Tuk-tuks can be arranged through guesthouses, offering space for one or two travellers. Figure on USD12 for the main Angkor temples, and more for outlying temples. Like the motorbike drivers, they must be licensed, may speak some English and must wear grey numbered vests while travelling within the park. Add USD3 extra fee if you would like to see sunrise at Angkor Wat. Extra fee is for the tuk-tuk driver to start the tour at 05:00 instead of 08:00.

By Bicycle

Bicycles are a very convenient option to visit Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom, the little circuit or even the big circuit - depending on time you have and how big fan of Khmer temples you are. Renting a bike in Siem Reap is easy and cheap (USD1 per day, in most of places you don't even have to leave passport, locks for bikes are provided, check the bike before and ask for some amendments if needed, e.g. pumping air, oiling the chain). It is about 6 kilometres from the city to Angkor Wat (if you go first time, make sure you go by the Visitors Centre which is the only place where you can buy passes). In the little circuit most places are at most 15 minutes away from each other by bike, so it is actually not a problem for a regular tourist (without much biking experience) to visit Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and spots on the little circuit in one day. If you are willing to get up early and start your trip at 06ː00 (it is not uncommon to see a bike rentals open from 04ː30) it won't be a problem to visit all above plus the big circuit (where spots are 30 minutes away each other by bike) in one day. Take into account your shape and visiting preferences. If you bike a lot at home - you can easily get around much quicker. If you enjoy Khmer architecture more than the typical Angkor visitor, it is recommended you reserve at least 3 days for the trip (it doesn't matter if you go by tuk-tuk or by bike). It is a good idea to take a lot of water with you, rent a bike with a basket, but not a big problem if you run out of it during your trip. Around every temple in Angkor park you can buy some food and drinks (it's just more expensive than in the city, about USD2 per big bottle of water in the park). Cycling in Angkor Park is safe (traffic is low), pleasant (nice views and a lot of trees providing shadows in sunny days) and, last but not least, it saves you a lot of hassle of dealing with tuk-tuk drivers.

Others

Horse carriages and even elephants are also available within the park, but only from specific points. For example, elephants travel the route between Bayon and the nearest gate of Angkor Thom.

Electric cars will take you to certain areas for a round-trip price of only USD2. They can be found in front of Angkor Wat and the Terrace of the Elephants.

Helicopter flights are another way of seeing Angkor Archaeological Park. You can also visit outlying temples like Banteay Chhmar, Boeng Mealea, Koh Ker, Rolous Group, Phnom Bok & Tonle Sap floating village. Helistar Cambodia have prices starting from USD90 per person for the basic Bangkeng Mountain, Angkor Wat. Sras Srang, Pre Rup, Eastern Mebon & Ta Som 14-minute tour. Flights depart daily from the Military Apron, Siem Reap International Airport. Bookings essential and can be made through hotels or travel/tour agents or direct on +855 12 449 555.

Eat

Despite a ban on development and commercial activity, dozens of small noodle and snack shops have sprung up near the major attractions of Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom. Some shopkeepers may be willing to bargain. During summer low season, you can bring the price of a good lunch down to as low as USD1 for a dish and USD0.50 for a drink. Their flocks of five year old emissaries aren't likely to hold price-cutting authority. However, avoid hard or aggressive bargaining, either because the odd dollar is nothing to you but can be significant to a local, and also it is unwise to offend or upset anybody before they prepare your meal! You'll also find some local people selling fresh pineapples and mangoes (beautifully cut) for about USD1 a piece. Also try the seasonal toddy palm fruit, a hollow sack as soft as jelly at 4 pieces for USD1 sold at the roadside to Bantay Samre and at temple refreshment stalls.

The modern Angkor Cafe lies just outside Angkor Wat's main entrance, and also doubles as a crafts shop, with fine works from the Artisans d'Angkor shop, where they train locals in the arts. Their prices are on the high side for Cambodia, but very reasonable for Western pockets (mainly USD3–5) with excellent food, nice decor and air conditioning.

Chez Sophie lies just outside Angkor Wat's main entrance. It is a favourite among expatriates and by many rated as the best restaurant in Siem Reap. Food prices are a bit higher than the cheapest places, USD8–15, but the standard is also much higher. Excellent place for lunch and or a coffee/wine break. Or for a romantic dinner. The owner Mathieu, a French UNESCO photographer who came to Cambodia in 1998 is charming, and the only foreigner living within the temple compound.

Drink

Soft drinks are hawked by stalls in front of practically every temple. As you might expect, prices are inflated: USD1 for a can of soft drink or a cold 1.5 litre plastic bottle of water is more or less standard, although this can easily be bargained down to half or less.

Sleep

There are no accommodations within the park itself and camping is not permitted. Like most tourists you will find yourself staying in Siem Reap, with a multitude of options ranging from grubby little guest houses to upmarket hotels and villas. See Siem Reap for more details on accommodation options.

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