Bologna

Photo © Arunava

Introduction

Twin Medieval Towers of Bologna

Bologna is a city in northern Italy and is the capital of Emilia-Romagna, a region in the Po Valley. The city has about 400,000 inhabitants and is one of the wealthiest cities in the country, at the same time offering splended culture and Italian cuisine to curious travellers who go beyond the general route.

Bologna is famous for its cuisine (la cucina Bolognese). It is also viewed as a progressive and well-administered city. It is considered second only to Venice in beauty by many Italians and certainly has one of the largest and best preserved historic centers among Italian cities. Its architecture is noted for its palette of terracotta reds, burnt oranges, and warm yellows, hence the name of Bologna la rossa (Bologna the red). The extensive town center, characterized by miles of attractive covered walkways, known as "porticos," is one of the best-preserved in Europe.

Bologna is the seat of the oldest university in continental Europe, founded in 1088. A significant portion of its population consists of away-from-home university students. In common with other Italian university towns, it is in parts marred by excessive graffiti on its historic palaces.

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History

The strategic location of the city molded its history. Inhabited since the 10th century BC during the Iron Age, it was fortified by the Celts and became a municipality under the Romans. The presence through the centuries of the Huns, Goths, Lombards, Franks, Austrians and French, have each left traces which are still visible on the city today.

Bologna struggled for autonomy, having been dominated by emperors, kings, and the Church. It was ruled by the Pepoli and Bentivoglio families, and was a papal fiefdom. The papal power made it a city of the Guelphs, while many of its residents supported the anti-Papal Ghibellines. Bologna had the first city council in Italy, and was, with the Liber Paradisus law in 1256, one of the first cities in the world to abolish slavery. This political activity was rooted in the lively environment surrounding the Alma Mater, as the university was known.

Bologna was the home of such personalities as Father Martini, a collector, composer and master of counterpoint who was a notable and complex protagonist of European music of the thirteenth century. Among his students were Johann Christian Bach (son of J.S Bach) and the young W.A Mozart. During the 19th century the Philharmonic Academy drew important personalities such as Rossini, Verdi, Brahms, Wagner, Puccini and Liszt.

Bologna was named a Creative City of Music by UNESCO in 2006. Music is performed throughout the city: in the Teatro Comunale (the Opera Theatre), by the Orchestra Mozart youth orchestra, founded and directed by Claudio Abbado, and in clubs and inns where jazz is regularly played. There are open-air concerts and music can be heard at the Conservatory, the Opera School, and hundreds of music associations operating within the territory.

Bologna's scientists have included Galvani and Marconi. Native or visiting painters and artists have included Morandi, Guido Reni, Guercino, the Carraccis, Leonardo (one of the legends about the Mona Lisa tells that this was where he painted his famous masterpiece), Giotto (there was a chapel in Piazza XX Settembre entirely painted a fresco by Giotto which was destroyed when Bologna was fighting against the Pope), Cassini (who made the world’s longest sundial, now located inside Basilica S. Petronio), and Michelangelo (on the arc in Basilica S. Domenico can be found his sculpture of an angel holding a candelabra). Napoleon re-arranged the urban plan of the city and Carlo V was crowned emperor in Bologna's Basilica S. Petronio.

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Sights and Activities

Bologna's historical city centre is one of the biggest in Europe (after Venice) and there are dozens of buildings dating back to the Medieval, Renaissance, and Baroque buildings styles. The iconic leaning towers (Due Torri) provide a useful central landmark. They are marked in the centre of the free map available from the Tourist Information Centre in the main square, Piazza Maggiore. The central area around Piazza Maggiore (including the Due Torri and Piazza Santo Stefano can be thought of as the hub of a wheel, with other roads leading out like spokes to the old city gates (Porte) that stud the Viali—a heavily trafficked beltway that surrounds the historical centre of the town. The northeast quadrant of the map is the university district (an integral part of the town rather than a separate campus). The two southern quadrants of your map are residential sections of the city, and not common tourist areas. However, Bologna's main park, the Giardini Margherita, is just outside the center (across the Viali from Porta Santo Stefano or Porta Castiglione), beneath the surrounding hills. Also to the south, an extended portico (with 666 arches and almost 4 km long) leads out from the Viali (at Porta Saragozza) up to the baroque Sanctuary of San Luca, which provides another iconic landmark.

Basilica di San Petronio, Piazza Maggiore, ☏ +39 051 231 415. M-Sa 09:30-12:30, 14:30-17:30; Su 14:30-17:00. It had to be the largest church in the world and in the shape of a huge Latin cross, but was only completed the long arm and with the unfinished facade. The basilica is still one of the most beautiful examples of Italian Gothic style and is one of the greatest monuments in the city. The Basilica houses an invaluable number of treasures such as the sundial by Cassini and Guglielmini, which indicates the exact period of the current year at all times, the "S. Rocco" by Parmigianino and the marvelous Bolognini Chapel. From the left nave of the basilica, the visitor can gain access to the Museum where many bas-reliefs are collected.
Palazzo Poggi (Museo di Palazzo Pogg), Via Zamboni 33 (bus C, T2; stop Teatro Comunale), ☏ +39 0512099398. Winter Tu-F 10:00-16:00, Sa Su 10:30-17:30. The building houses the headquarters of the University of Bologna. The interior is decorated with frescoes by Pellegrino Tibaldi, on the ground floor is the Hall of Hercules with a statue by Angelo Piò (1730). On the northern side of the Palace is the monumental Aula Magna (1756). Also Palazzo Poggi hosts numerous University Museums. In the University Library of Bologna it has preserved the "Picture Gallery" with over 600 fine portraits of an iconographic collection began in 1754. The museum's collections are organised into sections: Natural History, Anatomy and obstetrics, Physics and chemistry, Military architecture, The Library, Geography and Nautical Science, East Asian Art. Adults €5, aged 19-26 or over 65 €3.

Medieval defensive towers / Twin Medieval Towers
The oldest university in the western world with the Anatomical Theatre (Archiginnasio) and Palazzo Poggi with collections from natural history, anatomy, physics and chemistry
The basilica of San Petronio, one of the biggest in the world
San Pietro Cathedral
Santo Stefano basilica and sanctuary
San Domenico basilica and sanctuary
St. Francis basilica
Sanctuary of the Blessed Virgin of San Luca
Arcades (porticos) like the Portico of San Luca

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Weather

Bologna's climate is nice, with generally warm summers from late May to September when temperatures are usually between 25 °C and 30 °C and nights are roughly 10 °C colder than that. It can get pretty hot though on some day in July and August and combined with the European crowds this may not be the best time to visit. Winters last from December to March with temperatures well below zero during the day but around freezing in the coldest months (December and January). Summers are driest although winters don't see that much of rain (or the odd snow flock) either. Most of the precipitation falls during the early spring (March-early May) and late autumn (October-November) months. A good time to plan your visit would be late May, early June or the month of September, avoiding hot or cold weather, rain and crowds alltogether.

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Getting There

By Plane

Bologna Airport (BLQ) offers numerous flights throughout Europe and is one of the fastest growing airports in the country. Lowcost airlines like Ryanair serve cities like London, Oslo, Madrid, Brussels, Frankfurt, Valencia, Paris and Birmingham, among other smaller cities. Many other airlines have domestic or international flights, including to Rome, Reykjavik, Athens, Prague, Vienna, Dublin, Geneva, Berlin, Cologne, Lisbon and Casablanca.

The Aerobus BLQ shuttle service goes to the Railway Station from the airport, taking about 20 minutes. There are also direct buses going to Modena and Siena from the airport.

By Train

For train tickets to many Italian cities and international connections as well, check both the Ferrovie dello Stato (FS) andthe Trenitalia websites for schedules and prices.

By Car

The city is at the junction of the A1, A14 and A13 highways, and so is easily accessible from anywhere in Italy. Most traffic from Milan would exit the A1 and take the Tangenziale, but beware this road at rush hour because it is horrendously packed. Expect to use 2 hours from the A1 exit to the Tangenziale to the centre at certain peak times over summer busy weekends, especially at the beginning and end of August.

By Bus

Ferrara has regular bus connections, taking about 1 hours. For most other regional or domestic cities, trains are a far better option.
Eurolines connects Bologna directly with several European cities, though again, trains and planes are a far better option and hardly more expensive, if not cheaper.

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Getting Around

By Public Transport

TPER manages public transport in Bologna. Their information and ticket centres are available at some central locations in the city, including the railway station Bologna Centrale and Autostazione di Bologna, the intercity bus station. Bus maps are available there. Single tickets and some other types of bus tickets can be also purchased at many other resellers around the city (newspaper sellers, tobacconists, cafés, etc.).

By Foot

Bologna is a great place around which to travel on foot, as getting around the city is quite easy: the streets are well marked. It is also a great way to find hidden gems which are frequented by locals. Some care has to be taken crossing roads: the city centre swarms with scooters and small motorcycles (cars banned during the day) and they ride them everywhere.

By Bike

Bikes are most popular among the people of Bologna. They are available for rent on various location around the city (Dynamo, the bicycle parking station, can be found nearby the train station). You can ride on the many bike trails and on the side of the road. Be sure to lock them safely with a good lock, as they get stolen all around town, especially around the University.

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Eat

There are many choices for where to eat, as Bologna is generally considered to be the gastronomic centre of Italy, the Food Capital. It is difficult to find a truly poor meal as the Bolognese, like most Italians, use fabulous quality local produce with sparkling ingenuity.

For down to earth home style cooking try: Da Gianni in Via Clavature, Mariposa in Via Bertiera, Meloncello in Via Sargozza.

For good service, good wine list and fine food at a price try Camminetto D'Oro in Via de Falegnami or Cesarina in Piazza Santo Stefano.

For more contemporary stylish dining try the excellent and good value Casa Monica in Via San Felice.

Via del Pratello has lots of bars and restaurants/osterie for young people. There's lots to choose from here. Walk past, look at the menus. It is located towards the middle of the 'western' part of the map. Fantoni with its checkered red and white table clothes and scribbled menus, is much frequented by students and serves fantastic fish secondi and an excellent ragù. Via Mascarella/Largo Respighi is another zone with a lot of Osterie.

Trattoria da Gianni, Via Clavature, 18, ☏ +39 051 229434, ✉ [email protected]. Tu–Sa 12:30–14:15, 19:30–22:15; Su 12:30–14:15; M closed. Down to earth, home-style cooking.
Gilberto, Via Drapperie, 5, ☏ +39 051 223925, ✉ [email protected]. Tu–F 08:30–19:30; Sa 09:00–19:30; Aperitif: 19:30-21:30; Su closed. Over a century old, and in the shadow of the "two towers", Gilberto is an enoteca and a gastronomic food store. It serves a good aperitivo on between 19:30 and 21:30. A companion store sells detergents and household cleaning supplies.
Grom, Via Massimo D'Azeglio, 13 (a little south of Piazza Maggiore), ☏ +39 051 273437. Su–Th 12:00–22:00, F Sa 12:00–23:00. Consistently superb gelato, from the local outpost of a chain spanning many Italian cities. Try the wonderful pistachio, and the almond "granita". €3–7 for a copetta.
Ristorante Gusto Chengdu, Via de' Giudei, 6/f, ☏ +39 051 056 0510. Daily 11:30–15:30, 18:30–23:30. Delicious and spicy Szechuan Chinese food. Vegetarian options available.
Mercato di Mezzo, Via Clavature, 12, ☏ +39 051 228782. 09:00-00:00. Great place to have lunch or dinner for a good price. There are different local options for food and tables where you can sit down and enjoy your meal. There are many people at all times of day.
Ristorante Al Pappagallo, Piazza della Mercanzia, 3 (at the top of the street leading into Piazza Santo Stefano), ☏ +39 051 232807, ✉ [email protected]. Su–Th 11:00–23:00, F Sa 11:00–02:00. It was a famous haunt of the stars during the 1960s and '70s and still attracts an exclusive clientele. Its mix of traditional Bolognese fare and nouvelle cuisine gives the Diana a run for its money. Many other restaurants offer the same food for a lot less, but you get a lot of space between the tables here and the historic building is impressive if that is what you want. They offer both meat-based and vegetarian tasting menus, but the whole table must order them. €60-90 for first and second courses, or tasting menu.
Trattoria Del Rosso, Via Augusto Righi, 30. Traditional Bolognese dishes seven days a week at very reasonable prices. Owned and operated by chef Stefano Curvucci.
La Salumeria Bruno e Franco, Via Guglielmo Oberdan, 16, ☏ +39 051 233692, fax: +39 051 5882238, ✉ [email protected]. M–W 08:30–13:00, 16:30–19:30; Th 08:30–13:00; F Sa 08:30–19:30; Su closed. One of Bologna's best delis. Features fresh pasta.
Osteria del Sole, Vicolo Ranocchi, 1/d. M-Sa 10:30-21:30. If you feel like picnicking on some of the cold cuts (salumi), cheeses and other fresh foods on display in the delicatessens and market stalls off Piazza Maggiore, then Osteria del Sole at a tiny street could be a perfect venue. This traditional wine-drinkers' osteria (something of a rarity nowadays) invites you to bring along your own food. Popular with locals and travelers alike, it can get full, especially on Saturday (and don't expect to find soft drinks).
Tamburini, Via Caprarie, 1 (on the corner with Via Drapperie). A reasonably priced self-service lunch. Tamburini is renowned locally as one of Bologna's historic delicatessens, and it also provides a good variety of traditional fare at lunchtime for local employees and other visitors. Queues can get long during the peak lunch hour. edit
Ristorante Teresina, Via Guglielmo Oberdan, 4 (at the intersection with Via Rozzoli), ☏ +39 051 272631, ✉ [email protected]. M–Sa 12:30-14:30, 19:30-22:30, closed Su. Excellent food. Fish and meat menus, which can change daily, plus a set of traditional Bolognese dishes which are always served.
Caffè Terzi, Via Guglielmo Oberdan, 10/d, ☏ +39 051 034 4819. M–Sa 08:00-18:00, Su closed. Features single estate coffees.
Caffè Zanarini, Piazza Galvani, 1, ✉ [email protected]. Daily 07:00-21:00. Go here for a lunch. Best Terrace in town. Stylish waiters serve quality food. A 0.75 l bottle San Pelligrini costs €2.50. Good value for your money.

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Drink

Consider visiting the many pubs and clubs of Via Zamboni (university zone); some, such as "The Irish Pub", popular with students and foreigners, give happy hours on Tuesday/Wednesday. "Al Piccolo" down the road in Piazza Verdi is another famous student haunt, a live DJ playing techno into the early mornings. Otherwise, the Via Pratello has many bars and is the center of the city's alternative scene. Worth a look in particular is "Mutanye", whose owner is reputed to have been part of the Red Brigade in his youth, hence the many soviet posters. Via Mascarella, in the northeast area of the city, has plenty of nightspots, among them two jazz clubs. And, finally, check out the many bars and pubs hosting music contests and concerts, from rock to jazz to "liscio", the traditional folk songs in Emilia-Romagna.

Ai Vini Scelti, Via Andrea Costa 36/B. A good enoteca (winery), just outside the center in Via Andrea Costa and only a few moments from Via Pratello, is considered one of the best in Bologna, though there are many others in the center, providing everything from a quick aperitivo to proper wine-tasting. Another good winery is "Vini d'Italia" in Emilia Levante street (Viale Lenin corner), which is one of the oldest on in the city.
Enoteca Italiana has excellent and non pretentious Sommeliers on hand to advise and guide you. Great place for a lovely glass of wine.

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Sleep

Bologna has always been famous for its hospitality: its welcoming service is very effective and makes Bologna a perfect place for tourists. Bologna cultural heritage as well as its wine and food makes it an ideal destination to spend a weekend or a holiday different times of the year.

Alberta D Bed & Breakfast, Via Sant'Isaia 58. Charming rooms (2), renovated, comfortably furnished, free WiFi, central and close to public transportation and shops. €50-160.
Collegio Universitario S. Tommaso d'Aquino a Bologna, Via San Domenico, 1, ☏ +39 051 6564811, fax: +39 051 6486508. A part of San Tommaso's college but available for booking to everyone. Good location, cheap, free and high-speed Wi-Fi. Reception is not 24 hours! It is closed from 01:00-07:00 (08:00 during weekends), you will not be able to enter the hotel after 01:00 - it is possible to extend it for €20-30 till 02:00-03:00 respectively, but only in advance. €50 for 1 person; parking is €10 (extremely hard to find a parking place on the nearby streets) but you're not allowed to enter the city center, including the area where hotel is located, by car before 20:00.
Il Nosadillo, via Nosadella 19, ☏ +39 3737157621, +39 051 7162926, ✉ [email protected]. Check-in: 14:00-20:00, check-out: 11:00. Beds in shared rooms with a private locker for each guest, access to kitchen & public computer, breakfast, free WiFi and map of the city. Has 1 mixed 4 bed dorm and 1 mixed 5 bed dorm. Two bathrooms. In the heart of historical city center. Easy access to public transport. €24-30 per night.
Ospiti da Fabrizio (Guest House), Via Sant'Anna 20. Charming flat (60 m²) with Italian characteristic style, comfortably furnished in every detail, including free WiFi, placed in an old Bolognese courtyard. Close to public transports and shops. Nice and cheap alternative to hotels and B&B. €30/50/60 for 1/2/3 persons. edit
Amadeus Hotel, Via Marco Lepido 39, ☏ +39 051 403 040. The Amadeus Hotel is near the Bologna airport, in the city's nearest suburban area. 99 rooms. About 15 minutes by car or bus from the central station.
B&B Bologna nel Cuore, Via Cesare Battisti 29, ☏ +39 051 269442, ✉ [email protected]. Check-in: 17:00-20:00, check-out: 10:30. Two bedrooms and two studios. An intimate and stylish bed & breakfast located in an ancient building in the historic center of Bologna. Doubles from €90, singles from €60.
Room&Breakfast Le Stanze del Carro, Via del carro 11, ☏ +39 051 7162926, ✉ [email protected]. Check-in: 15:00-19:30, check-out: 11:00. Cosy and family run bed and breakfast in the heart of Bologna (few metres from the 2 towers). Historical building, 3 Rooms, 2 apartments, terrace. Breakfast, Elevator, Free WiFi and Maps. Homey atmospere and friendly staff. Doubles from €79, singles from €59.
Beatrice B&B Bologna, Via Indipendenza 56, ☏ +39 051 246016, ✉ [email protected]. Three rooms each with a private bathroom. B&B is in an elegant apartment attic with elevator in the Center of Bologna, next to the railway station, university, and all bus lines. A rich breakfast is served by friendly owners. Doubles from €70, singles from €50.
Hotel Fiera, Via Stalingrado 82. A very nice hotel in the Merchant district with 99 rooms. If you are lucky enough to get a room with a balcony, you will be rewarded with an outstanding view of the Apennines in the distance. Friendly staff, and a very nice little restaurant. Breakfast here is lovely. If you want a place on the outskirts from which to plan your stay, you could do much worse, but at a significant distance from the center, public transport is a must. All rooms have a minibar at very reasonable prices. Very clean rooms. Prices vary widely based on date: €38-240.
Hotel HC3 Bologna, Via dell'Arcoveggio 46/4, ☏ +39 051 373632, fax: +39 051 361429. Check-in: 16:00, check-out: 12:00. Located near the City Fair and a few minutes from downtown. 37 rooms, four stars. Free wi-fi internet connection, modern gym and a comfortable meeting room. Peculiar to the hotel is courtesy coffee around the clock available for free on every floor. Summer €55-155, fall €70-200; winter €60-130. Internet discounts available.
Hotel Imperial, Via del Gomito, 16 40127, ☏ +39 051 327183, fax: +39 051 4187076. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 10:00. Hotel with meeting rooms, wellness center and gym, a good choice for business travelers or for a relaxing holiday. Located near a bus no.25 stop, which takes you straight to the railway station. 49 rooms, three stars. €50 and up.
Mercure Bologna Centro. The Mercure is a rather conspicuously aged former Sofitel, with inoperative trouser presses and bathrooms straight out of the early 1980s. It remains very popular, however, due to its location right in front on the Bologna Centrale railway station.
NH Bologna de la Gare. Within a few steps of Bologna Centrale and right at the grand stairs of Parco Montagnola. The more expensive rooms have been refitted to current NH standards, the cheapest ones retain their Italiante looks and fixtures from the times this used to be a Jolly Hotel.
NH Bologna Villanova, Via Villanova, 29/8. 40055 Villanova di Castenaso. Bologna, ☏ +39 051 604311. The other NH in Bologna is a modern hotel is located within a commercial estate to the west of the city, with limited access by public transportation. Relatively attractive prices offset its remote location. It is best suited for business travellers with interest in the immediate vicinity or those arriving by car. €59 and up.
Hotel Porta San Mamolo, Vicolo del Falcone 6-8, ☏ +39 051 583 056. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00. A much-loved small hotel, lauded for its lovely staff, comfortable and prettily decorated rooms, and central but quiet location. 43 rooms, three stars. Summer €85-115, fall €95-220; winter €85-95.
Hotel University Bologna, Via Mentana, ☏ +39 051 229713. The University Hotel is located close to the “Universitá degli Studi”. 22 rooms, three stars. A breakfast buffet is inclusive in the price. Jan €60-78; Feb €70-78; Mar €92-250, June €59, Jul €65, Aug €65, Sep €65-92, Oct €70-92; Nov €70-170, Dec €64-105.
Residence alle Scuole, Via Scuole, 3-40057 Granarolo nell'Emilia, ☏ +39 051 6021887, fax: +39 051 602 14 92. Relaxing country hotel near Bologna. All rooms have satellite TV, telephone, air conditioning, private bath and free internet connection. 14 rooms, three stars. Double €70, breakfast included.
Residence Porta Saragozza, Via Turati 100, ☏ +39 051 6141411. Elegant suite and apartments comfortably furnished in every detail, placed in quiet Bologna zone. Close to public transports and shops. Apartments to rent in Bologna and Pontecchio Marconi Sasso Marconi. €90 1-2 persons, €110-130 3-4 persons, €200 5-6 persons.
Residenza Ariosto, Via Marsala 11, ☏ +39 051 0952779, ✉ [email protected]. Elegant residence in the center of Bologna. Close to public transports, shops, university and hospital. €80 1-2 persons, €90-130 3-4 persons, €150 5-6 persons.
Grand Hotel Baglioni, 8 Via Indipendenza, ☏ +39 051 225445, fax: +39 051 234840. A grand large fairly elegant hotel doubles from €565.
I Portici Hotel Bologna, Via Indipendenza 69, Bologna, ☏ +39 051 41285, fax: +39 051 4128584, ✉ [email protected]. Check-in: 16:00, check-out: 10:00. A luxury property in the heart of town, walking distance from the main train station, the city centre shopping area and nearby to Bologna fair exposition area. Four stars.
Il Convento dei Fiori di Seta, Via Orfeo 34/4. A stylish little hotel that has been fitted into a small restored church. Four stars.
Relais Villa Valfiore, Via Imelda Lambertini 20, San Lazzaro di Savena, ☏ +39 051 625 54 91, fax: +39 051 499 81 01, ✉ [email protected]. In a park of century-old trees in an enchanting corner of the hills in the Municipality of San Lazzaro di Savena, just a few kilometres from Bologna.

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Keep Connected

Internet

Almost all towns and cities in Italy have internet cafes. A growing number of budget hostels and nicer hotels have free Wifi. By law all public-access internet points must keep records of web sites viewed by customers, and even the customer's ID: expect to be refused access if you don't provide identification. Hotels providing Internet access are not required to record IDs if the connection is provided in the guest's room, although if the connection is offered in the main public hall then IDs are required. Publicly available wireless access without user identification is illegal, so open Wi-Fi hotspots (like the ones you might expect to find in a mall or cafée) all have some form of (generally one-time) registration.

Phone

Post

Post Italiane is the national postal services of Italy and has quite an efficient network of postal offices and reliable postal services. Standard letters and postcards (up to 20 grams) cost €0.39 to send within Europe and the Mediterranean countries outside Europe and €0.41 to all other destinations throughout the country. Up to 50 grams, prices start at €0.52 for Europe, €0.62 for other areas. Packages start at €1.55 within Europe, and around €2.50 for other countries. Post office business hours in Italy are from 8:30am to 2:00pm from Monday to Friday, with closing times at Saturday and the last day of the month at 12 noon. In general, larger post offices in bigger cities and in tourist areas keep longer hours than those in local towns. Also note that business hours in the south might be different than the north, with longer hours at night, especially in summer! If you want to send packages you might try faster and more reliable/efficient private courier companies like TNT, UPS or DHL.

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