Scottish Highlands

Introduction

Near summit of Ben Nevis

© cstevenson

The Scottish Highlands refers to a historic regional, as opposed to the lower parts of Scotland. Basically, it's the northwestern area of Scotland. This is the Scotland conjured up by visions of tartan, kilts, Bonnie Prince Charlie and all.

The term is also used for the area north and west of the Highland Boundary Fault, although the exact boundaries are not clearly defined, particularly to the east. The Great Glen divides the Grampian Mountains to the southeast from the Northwest Highlands. The Scottish Gaelic name of A' Ghàidhealtachd literally means "the place of the Gaels" and traditionally, from a Gaelic-speaking point of view, includes both the Western Isles and the Highlands.

History

Between the 15th century and the mid-20th century, the area differed from most of the Lowlands in terms of language. In Scottish Gaelic, the region is known as the Gàidhealtachd, because it was traditionally the Gaelic-speaking part of Scotland, although the language is now largely confined to The Hebrides. The terms are sometimes used interchangeably but have different meanings in their respective languages. Scottish English (in its Highland form) is the predominant language of the area today, though Highland English has been influenced by Gaelic speech to a significant extent. Historically, the "Highland line" distinguished the two Scottish cultures. While the Highland line broadly followed the geography of the Grampians in the south, it continued in the north, cutting off the north-eastern areas, that is Eastern Caithness, Orkney and Shetland, from the more Gaelic Highlands and Hebrides.

Historically, the major social unit of the Highlands was the clan. Scottish kings, particularly James VI, saw clans as a challenge to their authority; the Highlands was seen by many as a lawless region. Following the Union of the Crowns, James VI had the military strength to back up any attempts to impose some control. The result was, in 1609, the Statutes of Iona which started the process of integrating clan leaders into Scottish society. The gradual changes continued into the 19th century, as clan chiefs thought of themselves less as patriarchal leaders of their people and more as commercial landlords. The first effect on the clansmen who were their tenants was the change to rents being payable in money rather than in kind. Later, rents were increased as Highland landowners sought to increase their income. This was followed, mostly in the period 1760–1850, by agricultural improvement that often (particularly in the Western Highlands) involved clearance of the population to make way for large scale sheep farms. Displaced tenants were set up in crofting communities in the process. The crofts were intended not to provide all the needs of their occupiers; they were expected to work in other industries such as kelping and fishing. Crofters came to rely substantially on seasonal migrant work, particularly in the Lowlands. This gave impetus to the learning of English, which was seen by many rural Gaelic speakers to be the essential "language of work".

Older historiography attributes the collapse of the clan system to the aftermath of the Jacobite risings. This is now thought less influential by historians. Following the Jacobite rising of 1745 the British government enacted a series of laws to try to suppress the clan system, including bans on the bearing of arms and the wearing of tartan, and limitations on the activities of the Scottish Episcopal Church. Most of this legislation was repealed by the end of the 18th century as the Jacobite threat subsided. There was soon a rehabilitation of Highland culture. Tartan was adopted for Highland regiments in the British Army, which poor Highlanders joined in large numbers in the era of the Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars (1790–1815). Tartan had largely been abandoned by the ordinary people of the region, but in the 1820s, tartan and the kilt were adopted by members of the social elite, not just in Scotland, but across Europe. The international craze for tartan, and for idealising a romanticised Highlands, was set off by the Ossian cycle, and further popularised by the works of Walter Scott. His "staging" of the visit of King George IV to Scotland in 1822 and the king's wearing of tartan resulted in a massive upsurge in demand for kilts and tartans that could not be met by the Scottish woollen industry. Individual clan tartans were largely designated in this period and they became a major symbol of Scottish identity. This "Highlandism", by which all of Scotland was identified with the culture of the Highlands, was cemented by Queen Victoria's interest in the country, her adoption of Balmoral as a major royal retreat, and her interest in "tartenry".

Sub-Regions

Northern Highlands

The area covered here does not include the far northeast. Many will still think of this in terms of older names - Wester Ross and Sutherland. Much of it is taken by the wonderful Torridonian Sandstone Area. Further north there is gneiss as found in the Outer Hebrides.

Fort William and Lochaber

This is the area that contains the UK's highest peak, Ben Nevis and its range. However this is by no means the end - some would say not even the greatest - of its charms. The Pass of Glencoe is remembered for a terrible massacre but that has not diminished the awesome beauty of the mountains on each side of the glen. These include Aonoch Eagach, one of the two finest ridge walks on the UK mainland. Further west lies the somewhat softer but staggeringly beautiful area of Ardnamurchan.

Aviemore and the Cairngorms

The Cairngorms are very different from Scotland's other highland areas. They comprise a huge plateau of some of the UK's highest peaks, split by the incomparable (in the UK) Lairig Ghru, a high level pass.

Inverness, Loch Ness and Lochalsh

The mainland part of the area 'Skye and Lochalsh' is inserted into the 'Inverness, Loch Ness and Nairn' area. Nairn is treated as part of the north-eastern area. Inverness itself is not much above sea level and marks the end of the Caledonian Canal through the Great Glen from Fort William. The lovely areas of Glen Affric, Kinitail and Lochalsh are all included here.

Towns and villages

Northern Highlands

• Ullapool
• Lochinver
• Durness

Others include Scourie, Achiltibuie, Poolewe, Gairloch, Skieldaig, Diabaig, Torridon, Applecross, Kinlochbervie and Stoer.

Fort William and Lochaber

• Callander
• Crianlarich
• Fort William
• Mallaig
• Oban

Others include Ballachulish, Beauly, Spean Bridge, Arisaig, Glenfinnan, Strontian, Glenuig, Lochaline, Glencoe and Kinlochleven.

Aviemore and the Cairngorms

• Aviemore
• Carrbridge
• Kingussie

Others include Kincraig and Boat of Garten.

Inverness, Loch Ness and Lochalsh

• Inverness
• Kyle of Lochalsh
• Fort Augustus
• Pitlochry

Others include Dornie, Foyers, Drumnadrochit, Kinlochourn, Invergarry, Glenelg, Plockton

Sights and Activities

Eilean Donan Castle, Dornie - is one of the most recognized castles in the world. It has appeared in many films including "Highlander" and James Bond film "The World Is Not Enough"
Dunrobin Castle, Golspie - Gorgeous castle with fantastic exterior, gardens and falconry demonstrations M-Sa 11AM and 2PM. About an hour and a half north of Inverness. Adults £8, children £5, OAPs and students £7 for castle and gardens.
Applecross - See the views from Scotland's highest mountain road on the way to Applecross at about 2000 ft! Isolated peninsula known for its rugged beauty. Seal trips with Calum's at Plockton guarantees seals on your excursion or your money back. Not far from Kyle of Lochalsh area.
Handa Island - off Scourie - a wonderful RSPB seabird reserve.
Cape Wrath - ferry and minibus from near Durness - farthest northwest point - lighthouse and puffins.
Faraidh Head - walk from Durness - see seals in rock pools - and female eiders swimming in with their young in season.
Smoo Cave - Durness.
Torridon, Aligin and Diabaig area - see Torridonian Sandstone Area.
Corrieshallock Gorge - near Ullapool.
Summer Isles - trips from Ullapool or Achiltibuie.
Inverewe Gardens - near Poolewe. Lovely National Trust For Scotland garden, an hour north of Kyle of Lochalsh. Wonderful NTS Gardens that take full advantage of the Gulf Stream to grow tropical plants at this very un-tropical latitude.
An Teallach - excellent ridge walk.
Ben Nevis.
Glencoe area - see Pass of Glencoe.
Glen Etive - on the way from Crianlarich to Glencoe.
Ardnamurchan.
Lairig Ghru - best known pass route in Scotland between 4,000 ft peaks.
Loch Garten Osprey nest - RSPB reserves with telescopes.
Loch Hourn
Loch Maree, between Gairloch and Torridon - possibly the finest inland loch in the Scottish mainland, surrounded by peaks of Torridonian Sandstone.
Sandwood Bay, near Kinlochbervie - reckoned by Undiscovered Scotland to be the best beach in Great Britain.

Events and Festivals

• Braemar Gathering - The Royal Highland Games held on the first Sunday of September.

Weather

Spring is the best time for a visit with generally dry but cool weather with some showers now and then. Other times there is always a chance of rain and temperatures rarely go above 20 °C. Snow and frost are common in winter, but not that heavy.

Getting There

By Plane

The main airports into Scotland are:

• Edinburgh Airport (IATA: EDI, ICAO: EGPH)
• Glasgow International Airport (IATA: GLA, ICAO: EGPF)
• Aberdeen Airport (IATA: ABZ, ICAO: EGPD)
• Glasgow Prestwick Airport (IATA: PIK, ICAO: EGPK)

Airlines flying into Scotland are mainly from regional destinations. There are also seasonal flights from North America. Major airlines include British Airways, easyJet, First Choice Airways, Flybe, Flyglobespan, MyTravel Airways, Ryanair, Thompsonfly, Thomas Cook Airlines.

To travel to the Highlands (and the Isles) by plane, there are a number of national flights that go to the smaller airports. The airport at Inverness is regarded as the gateway to the Highlands. It is served by British Airways (in the form of Logan Air, a franchise partner), Easyjet, BMI, Eastern Airways, Aer Arann, Ryanair, Highland Airways, and Lufthansa, although the latter only in the summer shedule.

By Train

Scotrail trains run every couple of hours from Glasgow and Edinburgh via Perth and Aviemore to Inverness. Change at Inverness for trains west to Kyle of Lochalsh (for Skye), north to Wick and Thurso (for Orkney) and east towards Aberdeen.

Trains also run from Glasgow up the West Highland Railway via Arrochar (for Loch Lomond) and Crianlarich, where the train divides for Oban (for Mull, Coll, Tiree and Colonsay), or for Fort William and Mallaig (for Skye and the Small Isles).

Travelling from England usually means changing in Edinburgh or Glasgow (and maybe changing stations there), but there is one direct train per day from London Kings Cross via Edinburgh to Inverness.

The overnight Caledonian Sleeper runs from London Euston to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen, Inverness and Fort William. Sleeping berths and saloon seats are available, reservations are compulsory, and you need to be in the correct portion of the train as it divides in the small hours. It also serves intermediate stations such as Preston, Perth and Arrochar, but at inconvenient hours.

By Car

There are numerous roads from the Central Scotland region into the Scottish Highlands. One of the most scenic involves the drive along Loch Lomond, out to Oban then north to Fort William and along Loch Ness to Inverness.

Inverness can be reached from the south by the A9 from the south (Perth & M90 from Edinburgh, Glasgow) and from Aberdeen, 110 miles by the A96 road. The A82 reaches Inverness from the south-west, Loch Ness, Fort William and eventually to Skye. None of the roads to Inverness are entirely dual-carriageway. The A9 continues to Thurso on the extreme north coast of the Scottish mainland.

By Bus

Scottish Citylink offers a relatively frequent service to many parts of the Highlands from Glasgow, Perth and Inverness. West Coast Motors offers bus services throughout the Argyll and Bute region as well as buses from Glasgow to Campbeltown and Oban. Stagecoach offers services across the Highlands. National Express and Megabus run buses from England.

Getting Around

Scottish Citylink, West Coast Motors and Stagecoach should help to get you moving around the region if you are not in a car. Air service means connections in Glasgow while there are only a few train lines through the region, notably the West Highland Railway. There are two scenic lines: to Thurso and Wick, and to Kyle of Lochalsh.

Many of the roads, especially in the more remote areas of the North West are single track with passing places. Driving there is a pleasure.

The North Coast 500 is a 500 mile circuit around the coast of Caithness and Sutherland and Ross and Cromarty.

Hitchhiking is a good way to get around in the Highlands, with up to one in ten cars stopping for hitchhikers, but has two significant downsides. First, the road network is quite sparse in places. Also, many of the country roads that do exist have very low traffic density.

Eat

The eating opportunities can be more restricted away from the towns, and some places may take last orders at 8pm or even earlier, so it may be worth planning ahead where you are going to eat.

Drink

There are a few breweries and several whisky distilleries in the Highlands.

Sleep

Accommodation is scanty in relation to the number of visitors: it alternates between being full for summer holidays, and closed for winter. Schools and universities make block bookings at Easter and mid-term break. You might be able to rock up and find a place in shoulder season, but it's always best to book well ahead.

External Links