Italy - 2025 – Napoli & Procida

Community Highlights Europe Italy - 2025 – Napoli & Procida

We drive back to the airport in Cagliari, drop off the car and catch our Ryanair flight 60 minute flight (15 euros) to Naples. We arrive in the airport and the owner of our apartment comes to pick us up (25 euros), he drops us off at the nice B&B Etnuvio, (55 euros with an excellent shared kitchen). If arriving in the evening it might be a good idea to arrange your transport in advance but during the day, public transport is absolutely fine and easy to navigate. We were in Napoli a year ago but obviously needed to come back to this incredible city for more and to enjoy the best food and street food in Italy in my humble opinion. As we arrive late, we chill for the day, wake up early and quickly reacquaint ourselves with “La bella Napoli”. The accommodation is very well located, within walking distance to everywhere in the area of Rione Sanitá. For decades, this working-class district had been labelled as ‘dangerous and absolutely to be avoided’ however it’s been gentrified now and we’ve found it to be one of the most vibrant and captivating spots in Naples.

In the morning we spike our blood sugar levels by going back to Tarantino Bar for a “cappuccino & cornetto” (croissant), 2 euros, for breakfast, then hit the ground running by revisiting most places that made us fall in love with this incredible city. We revisit the markets, the Centro Storico, admire all the fantastic urban art, the little shrines on every corner, the Maradona (Napoli FC) murals all over the place, the majestic crumbling architecture and archways, the powerful smell of laundry powder exuding from all the washing hanging everywhere, of course stopping along the way for a couple of fabulous pizzas and some nice wine to recharge our batteries at the Pizzeria Oliva da Carla e Salvatore.

The weather has been great, perfect for seeing one of the 3 islands off the coast of Napoli, so we have to pick one between Procida, Ischia and Capri and after doing a bit of research we decide that Procida is the one for us. It’s close, walkable and not as touristy as Capri but not as big as Ischia. It’s a beautiful day as of course we’ve checked the weather forecast and picked the best day for it. So we walk to the port, buy the tickets, catch our ferry and after a very smooth one hour ferry ride we arrive at the incredibly picture perfect island of Procida. It’s important to notice that you pay a 2.50 tourist tax included in the price for the tickets to Procida and buying them at the port saves you some money rather than buying them online. We paid 53 euros for the return tickets for the both of us including the Procida landing fee. The island is everything you see on the brochures and then some, the views from the many strategic viewpoints are amazing, the rows of colourful buildings are so pretty you end up taking many similar photos as you just can't help it… Procida Island is a pastel-coloured gem and known for its authenticity and local way of living. Much quieter than surrounding islands of Ischia and Capri, it’s very walkable and pleasant and not to be missed. Having said that, we need to remind you that we’re here in April and there are already large cruise ship groups, so not sure how busy it gets in the summer with its narrow, steep lanes.

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After spending a few glorious hours in Procida, we catch our ferry back to Napoli as it’s time to revisit some of our favourite street foods. Firstly back to Pizzeria Tutino for a pizza portafoglio (2.50 for a whole pizza folded into 4) and a Peroni beer (1.5), then we walk around till we found the cuopo (deep fried battered morsels cooked to order and served in a paper cone) place we ate at last time we were here. We order one of each of the Cuopo Terra and Mare, the Terra is vastly superior and don’t forget to bring your water as it’s seriously salty. Now, with our tummies full and with over 20 kms walked, it’s time to go back to our room and put our feet up.

It’s our last day in Napoli and we go for a wander in the morning through markets and old neighborhoods, then walk along the Lungomare (a long esplanade along the ocean) with Mount Vesuvius in the background. It’s a sunny Saturday and it seems like everyone is out and about, families, couples, tourists, buskers, street vendors, such a great vibe. We walk for a long time till we arrive at Cibi Cotti de la Nonna Anna restaurant, serving affordable, authentic food since 1968. We were here last year and couldn’t leave Napoli without going back for more. We have 2 pasta dishes, some massive meatballs, caponata and a bottle of the house wine for 26.50 euros. We are still trying to finish our wine when a group of older locals with their plates in their hands unceremoniously kicked us off our table, yes it was that busy. We then float back to our room after having walked for over 30kms we need to chill and pack as we’re leaving tomorrow. We wake up early the next morning and walk to the bus station, take a bus to the airport for 5 euros then catch our Easyjet flight to Athens, Arrivederci Napoli, thanks for the great times, till the next chapter.

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