A Stormy Arrival
I arrived in what I would eventually learn to be unfamiliar weather for Malta. The wind blew hard and the rain came down in buckets. She wanted to get some Fenek (rabbit) and chips. We darted from our Bolt taxi as the rain pelted us into the restaurant. Surfside is a local spot, nothing grand, but is perched gloriously on the edge of the ocean in Sliema. During a sunny day, it’s a great spot to grab a cool drink and admire the ocean views from all angles.
Normally, the ocean is a fair distance from the building, but during the storm, it clattered against the glass walls. “They’ve had to close it down before because the glass broke,” she said. Not quite the words of comfort I wanted to hear. My pint of Cisk, the local Maltese beer you can’t avoid, arrived alongside our food. It was a simple, rain-drenched meal with a dark-haired beauty, and despite the poor weather was a good starting point. Everything led upward from here on.
I awoke to the more familiar weather of blaring dry sunshine. I stepped out onto the terrace to soak up the rays and get my first glimpse of Malta’s famous beige stone architecture and painted wooden shuttered balconies. A sight I never bore of. The day’s schedule would consist of a walk around the capital city of Valletta, followed by a stroll along the ocean in Sliema, and would end sitting across the table from someone who has only ever endeavoured to bring me joy.
Gardens and Gun Salutes
I looked upon the massive Triton Fountain sitting before the gateway to Valletta in awe. Three god-like figures (Triton being the Greek god of the sea) hold a massive saucer of water on their shoulders as if holding the world itself aloft. No other image could be more suitable for a nation that was one of few places to hold out against not only Italian but Nazi bombardment in the second world war. The Maltese flag carries the George Cross to this day and is a testament to the nation’s enduring resilience.
The entrance to Valletta is guarded by two massive walls that form a part of the old fortifications that have kept Malta safe for so long. As you walk across the bridge between the fortifications, you are instantly hit by Valletta’s regality. It is hard to not be galvanised by the rich history of the island, wandering through such a pretty city. Its streets are paved in beige Maltese stone and lined by colourful shutters backdropped by blue sky and ocean.
Valletta lies in between the modern escapades of places like Sliema and St. Julian’s, and examples of its more ancient and medieval history of the Three Cities. It is an important thing to understand as you walk around Valletta, as Malta is a country going through many changes. You can see directly through certain streets at the old and in the opposite direction at the new. The cranes are everywhere, and with them comes the noise and dirt of construction. Malta is itself a testament to civilisation’s endurance through time. Malta has a history going back thousands of years to the Neolithic and has been touched by every great civilisation since then, and it will continue to endure and thrive into the future.
We strolled between the Upper and Lower Barrakka Gardens and soaked up the incredible views on offer there. Unbeknownst to us, we had arrived in time to witness a local event you will no doubt be made aware of the moment it occurs: the gun salute. Canon fire has become a sort of tradition in Malta and is echoed by their obsession with fireworks. If you venture there during the summer months, expect to hear explosions throughout the day, even in the morning hours.
The coup de grace of Valletta has to be, without a doubt, St. John's Co-Cathedral. The inside is laden with gold from floor to ceiling. It’s a majestic sight even for those not interested in the religious aspect, much like myself. The pièce de résistance is the grand painting of the beheading of St. John the Baptist by Caravaggio. The brutality of which exemplifies the time it was created in.
Coastal Charms
Before returning to our Airbnb and nestling in for some much-needed couples’ time, we took a stroll along the smooth, hardened shore of Sliema. The sun hit from one direction and the waves from another. The ocean joyfully played with us as we strolled hand in hand embracing the views of the Maltese coast. Along the shoreline of these areas, it is commonplace to find Roman baths that have been etched into the rugged terrain. They can be a joyful experience on the right day but also lethal on the wrong one.
Upon returning to the flat, I set about completing what has become a customary ritual for a flip-flop ‘dude’ such as myself: feet washing. I’m not sure if it’s the proximity to Africa and the dust storms from which it suffers or the filthy construction that plagues the island, but wearing anything that doesn’t completely cover the feet will render your soles blackened.
After a late afternoon snuggle and early evening nap, we ventured back to Valletta for drinks and a meal. The Rooftop Lounge above the Embassy Hotel served as a perfect romantic spot for cocktails. The views stretch as far as one can see whilst sitting next to the calm rooftop pool overlooking a city bustling with nightlife. Quality bars and restaurants are plentiful here.
After I slurped down a Moscow Mule and she sipped at her Aperol Spritz, we went for Japanese food at Aki. We walked off our fat bellies through the joyous city streets after an incredible sushi feast. We plopped down under the night sky in front of the cathedral for a glass of sparkling wine before finishing our romantic night at the flat.
The Isles of Malta
The next day, we bought ourselves a simple package tour that sailed us to Comino/Blue Lagoon and Gozo. During the summer, it’s hard to miss the copious amount of boat tours sailing about the island. It was easy enough to organise and meant we had a day out visiting the other islands that made up Malta. The journey from the port in Sliema isn’t long and offers a chance to see the island from the ocean.
The island of Gozo is tiny, but don’t make the mistake of assuming it has nothing to offer. It’s as picturesque as a Mediterranean island can be. At one time, the Dothraki roamed the land, but is now inhabited by quiet folk. There’s an abundance of grottos and inlet beaches surrounding the island, but our little tour didn’t leave much time for that. We roamed around the capital of Victoria, grabbing lunch in the centre before visiting the Citadel. It’s hard to go anywhere in Malta without being confronted by its militaristic past.
Blue Lagoon is probably the most social-media-famous spot in the Maltese Islands. Because of this, the place is rammed. It’s over-the-top tourism at its finest. No wonder the locals have grown tired of their gorgeous lagoon becoming infested by people year in year out. The water is a sight to behold when you can find a spot that isn’t overpopulated by sunburnt bodies. We managed to find a spot to nestle in after climbing over rocks and up and down cliffsides. Although the views and crystal-clear water are splendid, it was hard to fully enjoy. Noisy boats and parties ruined what natural tranquillity there was, and I was happy to be returning to the boat after a couple of hours.
Upon leaving the mess of bodies, the tour company offered an interestingly fun opportunity we simply couldn’t pass up: a high-speed boat. It was a nice end to an underwhelming trip and got us back to Sliema far quicker than we had anticipated. What with the Tigne shopping mall being in close proximity, my lady friend saw it as a perfect opportunity to do some holiday shopping.
Sand and Music
Malta certainly has its own quirky vibe, and nothing exemplifies this better than the existence of Popeye’s Village. We decided to visit it before making our way to Ghajn Tuffieha. Popeye’s Village was built by Disney as a film set for the Robin Williams movie. It is today a tourist attraction, and the first time I ever encountered those live-in actors that populate the place. The village is positioned rather beautifully between some cliffs on the water’s edge. Embarrassed by my boyish laughter at witnessing Popeye croon over Olive Oyl, she suggested we make our way to the beach.
Ghajn Tuffieha has become my favourite beach in Malta and is probably your best bet, as most beaches will be crowded in the hot summer months. The beach itself is a crescent shape sitting between two cliffs. It is a narrow stretch of sand which allows you to sit right at the water’s edge. We nestled in and enjoyed a picnic under the sun. The water is generally calm, and the sun sits high and bright above it. There are some steps to clamber down on the way to it, but nothing unmanageable. I love walking around the cliffs there, it offers stunning views amongst the tranquillity of the sea.
Malta is not without its nightlife. The lady wanted music, and so, at night, she dragged my reddened carcass out to Paceville in St. Julians. The reputation of Malta’s nightlife precedes itself and you can expect fights and rowdiness in this area. There are, however, some shades of light coming from a darker spot on this magnificent island. Hugo’s Terrace offers great cocktails and had some of the best fried calamari we’ve sampled on the island. We ate next door at Storie e Sapori. It’s a lovely little Neapolitan restaurant that gave us a table after recognising my girlfriend from TikTok. My eyes couldn’t possibly have rolled harder at her growing head, but whatever gets us a table, I suppose. The food here is excellent, and we’ve ventured back many times since.
Heart Tied
My short trip was coming to an end. We spent a day basking in the sun on a lounger at Café del Mar in St. Paul’s Bay. It’s got one of those gorgeous infinity pools, the colour of which matches the ocean it appears to spill out onto. As the sun settled and night appeared, we were treated to a performance of Poi spinning. Before we knew it, the music was on and Café del Mar serenaded us with Malta’s favourite: fireworks. It was a pleasant, unexpected event and helped us finish our couple’s holiday how it should; with a bang.
This first journey was but a drop in the ocean of what I have experienced and what is possible to experience in Malta. It would mark the start of a flourishing personal relationship and also one with Malta. I had long felt since stepping foot on the island that I was going to see it more than once, and now I feel as though my bond with it will only end when I end.
This featured blog entry was written by Charliescopy from the blog Charlie Does Travel.
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