The title says it all—The day started damp and chilly and that is how it ended. That may sound bleak but there was so much in the middle. Grabbed a breakfast of meat, cheese, juice, tea and pastry then back to the room to pack. I have done my rooms through booking so usually don’t owe anything, but discovered I needed to pay—with cash. Luckily I had enough cash and then it was time to start the route.
I began a climb in the chilly morning air—low 40s. Took a few more pictures of the farmland, water cistern one the road, the characteristic stone walls, etc.
From the start I know from the forecast it was going to be a gloomy day, but before long it was misting, then heavily misting then raining. Chilly, gray, and wet—not the best start. The morning road was medium sized so I just kept my head down and plowed on, bundled up in multiple layers to stay warm. I did manage to take a few pictures before the rain got heavier, and the countryside is pretty enough but you can see there is heavy cloud cover.
I had been biking over a couple hours and was coming to a major turn. I could go off and do a longer harder side road or stay on this larger road and just get to the hotel quicker. I was seriously contemplating the altered route and even had mapped it to see what all I would need to change. By the time I got to my turn the rain had almost stopped and the cloud cover lifted a bit. It was brighter and I could see for a long distance. If you have read my previous blogs you know I usually chose the harder path, it in honesty I wouldn’t say harder. I love the quieter more scenic path, and taking the original route provided that and more. Street green mountains, twisting road for interesting ascents and exhilarating descents, colorful windflowers, meandering rivers, While it was still chilly and only a little less gray, the absence of rain made this ride on this country road great. Although I stayed layered up, I was able to keep my temperature stream but zipping everything up downhill and unzipping as needed uphill.
This road ended and I had to join the larger road for several miles. Like the change of road was somehow connected, the wall of while took me over and I will in haze and a light rain. It didn’t rain as hard as the morning and I didn’t get as wet and cold at this point in the ride. Maybe I was still basking in the warmth of the ride of the smaller road. For whatever reason the rain wasn’t an issue.
I had another great section of road near the end with beaufitul green forests and the solitude I love. It is funny that biking solo like this I never feel lonely. I am busy thinking and planning and noticing and trying to remember all what I am seeing. I will feel lonely when I am in town around people nd there is no one to talk to. To be in such a crown of people but not connected to anyone—again makes me value the relationships with family and friends. On this road through the mountains and enjoying a smooth and curvy descent when I come around a curve in see Braganza on a far hill. The day has gone so quickly, and I have enjoyed it so much. Not just saying that or trying to not complain. I loved this day. I stopped so many times to look at things and take pictures. I admired the European oaks—not sure of the actual variety but they are smaller and gnarly and have leaves that a beautifully divided in to multiple fingerlike divisions. I also say this water plant with small white flowers. I first remember seeing it in Spain where entire streams were covered in it making them look like rivers of blossoms, there is this salmony pink creeping plant of thousands of blossoms that is along along the roadside and especially on rocks. The expansive panoramas are are breathtaking, but when the clouds obscure those it only makes me notice those endless array of beautiful things right on the side of the road.
Even though I had spotted the city it was still a ways to get there. I had to continue to the valley, cross a river, and begin the long climb to
Braganca. Like a horse smelling the barn, I was motivated to make it to my destination. I found the hotel fairly easily, and it is at the foot of the castle—a major sight for this city. The place I am staying is in the heart of the old city and has so much character historic rooms, a beautiful gardens and its own chapel.
I eat unpacked, then showered, and I am ready to head out. I thought I would go to the castle first as it has a closing time. I can walk around town later. After talked to the girl who gave me a tour of the house and some history, I change my plans. She described a great city market today, and I can do the castle tomorrow. Once I get to the market I see what the girl was talking about—it is huge. Multiple streets are lined with vendors. Many are just regular household goods but there is all types of potter, some antiques, bedroom furniture—you name it, it seems to be here. I am drawn to the many booths of baked goods. They all look so good but I only know of the Portuguese tart. As I was looking at one large pastry display the vender greeted me and of course I indicated that I couldn’t speak Portuguese. A woman nearby hear and came over and offered to help. She explained what a number of the small individual items were and I ordered some custarding ring with a cherry, an almond cookie, and a pastry made with beans. They were all delicious of course and the bean one was surprising light.
I continued to visit various booths but eventually wandered away from the market to other parts of the city and down by the river. On returning to the center, I stumbled an entire sure of tents that I had missed earlier. Always a believer in dessert first, I got a crepe—have lemon and have chocolate. The crepe was made and then folded over a few times so it was a long and flat. It was handed to you on a narrow piece of folded paper to take away and eat—so good. I had come to the market at 4:00 and it is now after 6:00, and I need to start looking for a restaurant. The hotel recommended a couple and I checked them out. It was still early to eat for the Portuguese, but I found a place and sat down. I chose a fancier place to celebrate my finishing this first phase of biking. The menu had appetizers, small plates, and larger plates. I wanted to try different things so I got 2 appetizers and 1 small plate.
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I thought the Americans had issues with portion size, but the Portuguese will give us a run for our money. The first appetizer we tuna purée with curry and olive oil . I forget to take a pick before eating it all. It was a large size bowl that I would normally share. The other appetizer was the pork croquets with some type of sweet purée—very tasty. And lastly, the small plate was a mountain grated leeks, fried eggs, and potatoes. It was about 6 inches tall and 6 inches in diameter. Although I couldn’t eat it all, a lingered until 7:30 and finished off as much as I could.
I need to head back to the hotel and work on this blog entry. It is about 7:45 and the market is going strong. Plenty of patrons, and most of the vendors are still there. I decide to by a couple pastries to have with tea before I go to bed. Once my dinner has settled that is.
The afternoon and evening in Braganca have been so wonderful that it didn’t even occur to me to mention it rained several times, it was gray, and it was chilly. So many other things are much more memorable.
This featured blog entry was written by guylch75 from the blog Pedaling Portugal.
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