The Promenade des Anglais, Nice.
We left our accommodation in Monaco in pouring rain and headed downhill to the train station. I didn't really want to use a ticket machine again, so was pleased to see a manned ticket office and went there. I was second in the queue. There was one American man in front of me who wanted to reserve a seat for part of his journey to Florence. I have no idea why this caused so many problems, but all three members of staff dealt with only him and it took them around twenty minutes. Then people behind me started asking to go in front of me, because they were about to miss their trains. It was a nightmare. I thought I would never get out of there. I guess I should just have gone to the machine.
Again we got on the train that was going to Grasse. It was really busy. We managed to get almost the last two seats, which were right next to the toilet. This was fortunate as by that stage I was desperate to go, but when I tried to get back out of the toilet, the door refused to open. I could tell it was going to be a very bad day. Somehow after a lot of struggling, I finally managed to get out of the toilet. The door was now displaying 'out of order'. I was just thankful to be free. Then, as we were sitting right outside the toilet, I noticed the door was functioning again. For the rest of the journey it functioned for a few minutes, then displayed out of order, then functioned, then out of order and so on. I was extremely lucky to get out of there - alive.
The bad weather had followed us to Nice. It was pouring when we arrived. We were staying in the Ibis Styles Nice Centre Gare Hotel which was very close to the station, but we had to walk really slowly, as Peter was nervous about slipping on the wet ground. We arrived at the hotel looking and feeling like two drowned rats.
The girl on reception was really friendly and gave us an upgraded room with a large terrace and sun loungers. Somehow, at that point in time, sun loungers did not seem so appealing. However, we knew the weather was forecast to improve the next day.
Our room was very nice, but our luggage was absolutely soaking and I had to take everything out and spread it all around the room to try and get it dry. Within minutes the room looked like a rubbish tip.
Our room.
Our room.
Our terrace, taken on the next day when it had finally stopped raining.
Me on our terrace.
I didn't feel like doing anything with the day, as the rain was relentless. I said to Peter that I'd just go to the supermarket and get a baguette, cold meats, cheese, water and beer for dinner, instead of us traipsing around looking for a restaurant.
I walked to the U-Express Supermarket, just minutes away from our hotel. When I had chosen everything, I put all my stuff out of my trolley next to a till. The guy manning it stood and watched me do this, then when I had finished said his till was closed. I felt like punching his lights out. I was so angry. If it hadn't been pouring, I'd have walked out and gone somewhere else.
This extremely unhelpful guy then pointed at a closed till and told me to go there. I was so mad I managed to knock down a chocolate display on route, though I didn't do it on purpose ... honestly.
Anyway by the time I got back home, soaked again, I had gone majorly off travelling. I announced that I intended to do absolutely nothing for the rest of our stay in Nice as it was so horrible here. Peter knew better than to take me seriously and just let me rant it all out of my system.
After a good night's sleep and the welcome reappearance of the sun the next day, everything felt better.
We went downstairs for breakfast, which was actually very good. We could get excellent coffee from the machine. There was orange juice, apple juice and freshly squeezed orange juice which tasted like sunshine in a glass. There was a selection of breads, cheeses, cold meats, cereal and pastries. It was possible to cook your own boiled eggs. Out table was right next to the fruit juice and we made good use of that fact.
Nice is the capital of the French Riviera and the fifth largest city in France. It is famous for its belle-epoque architecture and its seaside promenade. Nice was founded by Greek sailors and was originally called Nike after the Greek goddess of victory. Nice is located on the Bay of Angels which takes its name from a legend.
A young Palestinian Christian girl was put to death for her Christian beliefs and her body was placed into a boat. Angels guided the boat across the Mediterranean Sea to Nice where a shrine was built around her remains. The young girl became known as Saint Reparte and is now the Patron Saint of Nice. There are lots of similarities here with the story of Saint Devote in Monaco.
Nice has long been a popular holiday destination. In the past this was especially true in the winter when rich people from Northern Europe would flock here for their health. In fact often doctors would prescribe a trip here as a way to recover from tuberculosis.
We have been to Nice before in 2015 and had seen most of the things we wanted to see, so we could largely just look around at a relaxed pace on this visit.
Peter loves Nice.
I love Nice.
We started by heading out towards the Promenade des Anglais. On the way we stopped in a small park with a fountain for Peter to take a rest. I was amazed at how many pigeons there were perched on one piece of wire here. Actually there were thirty-five. Yes, I did count them.
We passed this picturesque window on a Nice street on our walk.
Fountain in the little park with the birds.
Birds on a wire.
In the eighteenth century many English aristocrats settled in Nice to enjoy its mild winter climate. They built lots of expensive villas on the waterfront, but they lacked a place to walk along the edges of the beach. A fund raising campaign was started by the Reverend Lewis Way of the Holy Trinity Anglican Church in Nice. He aimed to generate enough funds to build a waterfront promenade. His campaign took place at a time when Nice was experiencing a sudden large influx of beggars. These beggars had been farm workers, but a harsh winter and a poor harvest, had rendered them unemployed, so the Reverend Lewis Way employed them to build the promenade. Since the whole project was financed by the British, the waterfront walkway was commonly known as The Promenade des Anglais. It was completed in 1822 and stretches for over seven kilometres. Nowadays it is greatly loved by walkers, joggers, cyclists and skateboarders.
Us on the Promenade des Anglais.
Peter on the Promenade des Anglais.
Peter on the Promenade des Anglais.
Christmas tree and Christmas post box on the Promenade des Anglais.
There are blue chairs at regular intervals along the Promenade des Anglais. These were created by a French craftsman called Charles Tordo. They are blue to represent the sky and the sea. Originally people had to buy a ticket at the Chaisière before they could sit down. Those who did not buy a ticket could be fined. Nowadays, the blue chair is considered to be the symbol of Nice. There is even a blue chair artwork designed by a contemporary artist named SAB.
Peter on a blue chair.
Peter with the blue chair sculpture.
Us on the front with the blue chair sculpture.
Blue chair sculpture.
Blue chair sculpture from the other side.
The Promenade des Anglais was perfect for Peter. It was wide and flat and he loved all those blue seats. He walked a bit, then rested in the sun while I wandered. We did this in both directions. First, I was able to go and take a look at the famous Le Negresco Hotel.
The Hotel Negresco was constructed in 1912 for Henri Negresco, a Romanian man who left his native country to live in France and ended up running the Municipal Casino in Nice. He wanted the Negresco Hotel to be a luxurious location that would attract rich people to spend money in his casino. The building was designed by a famous architect called, Édouard-Jean Niermans. It was successful as a hotel until the First World War when it was used as a hospital. After the war, Nice struggled to attract wealthy visitors for a while and Negresco went bankrupt. He died in Paris a few years later at the age of 52.
Le Negresco Hotel.
Le Negresco Hotel.
The inside of this hotel is supposed to be amazing, but I didn't go in. On our last visit there was a sign up saying only guests could come in. I took photos of the Miles Davis statue outside the hotel. Nice has a long association with jazz and was apparently the venue for the world's first jazz festival in 1948.
Famous statue outside Le Negresco Hotel.
Famous statue outside Le Negresco Hotel.
Next I looked at the memorial to those killed in the terrorist attack that took place on the Promenade des Anglais in 2016, just a few months after our last visit.
The terrorist attack took place on the 14th of July, which is Bastille Day. Crowds of people had headed to the Promenade des Anglais in the evening to see a fireworks display when a truck deliberately crashed through the barriers into the pedestrian zone and began running people down. The attack resulted in the deaths of 86 people and the injury of 434 others. The memorial to the victims of this attack is in the gardens of the Musee Massena, a former villa that now houses exhibitions about the history of Nice.
The Museum Massena.
Memorial to victims.
Victims names on a heart.
I didn't realise it at that time but there is a second memorial to the victims on the promenade itself. I saw this and photographed it, but didn't know what it was. It is called L'Ange de la Baie Nice, which means The Angel of Nice Bay, and was created by sculptor Jean-Marie Fondacaro. It's meant to look like an angel and a wave. There's a heart shape on the base of the sculpture with the names of the 86 victims engraved on it.
Statue and Christmas tree at the front.
The driver of the terror truck was finally shot dead by the police near the Palais de la Méditerranée. I had noticed this building without knowing this. This art deco building is now a hotel but was originally designed by Frank Lloyd Wright and used as a casino. The casino closed in 1977.
Palais de la Mediterranee.
There are lots of grand buildings along the front. Many are hotels.
Le Royal Hotel.
Casino Ruhl.
Palm trees were planted along the Promenade des Anglais to make it feel more exotic.
Palm trees at the front.
Palm trees lining the front.
At one point I placed Peter on a conveniently located blue chair and crossed the road to look at the Monument du Centenaire which commemorates Nice becoming part of France. This monument dates back to 1896 and is located between the Promenade des Anglais and the Jardin Albert 1er, where the Christmas market was located.
The Monument du Centenaire.
Merry-go-round at the Christmas Market..
The beach next to the Promenade des Anglais is a pebble beach, which stretches a very long way and is divided into differently named sections. I was surprised to see a rather high rocky hill on one part.
The rocky beach.
Our seagull friend again.
Peter on the beach.
Such a relaxing place to sit.
Picnickers on the beach.
The beaches stretch for a very long way.
Rocky hill at the waterfront.
Ruhl Beach is the name of one section.
The beach in the other direction.
Some restaurants are located right on the beach. They seemed to be very popular and the food there certainly smelled good.
Restaurant on the beach.
Restaurant on the beach.
Restaurant on the beach.
Although the sun had reappeared it was still quite chilly. I watched in amazement as two people went in for a swim. I must admit the water did look lovely, but it must have been pretty cold in there.
Two brave swimmers.
When we had walked almost as far as Castle Beach, we went off the Promenade des Anglais and entered into Nice Old Town.
Approaching the site of Nice's former castle.
We were on the Quai des Éstas-Unis or Promenade of the United States. We passed by the Nice Opera House which has a Statue of Liberty outside it. Apparently France has several replicas of the famous statue created by Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi and gifted to New York City. The statue in Nice was placed here on February 1, 2014 to commemorate the centennial of World War I.
The Opera House and Statue of Liberty.
Statue of Liberty in front of the opera.
Close up of the Statue of Liberty.
Peter in front of the opera.
Peter had walked really well, but was tiring, so I took him to an Australian pub called Van Diemen's and bought him a beer, while I went for a wander around the old town by myself. Funnily enough I was really impressed with the Old Town and wondered why we hadn't really explored it on our earlier visit. Now that I am back home, I looked up my previous blog and found that we had explored it quite thoroughly and for some reason I had just totally forgotten!!!
Van Diemens.
Again I walked without looking for anything in particular. In the Cours Saleya there's a market with lots of flower stalls. Apparently in the morning there are lots of fruit and vegetable stalls, too, but these had largely gone when we got there. There are some beautiful buildings here, including several churches.
Flower stall.
Flower stall.
Flower stall.
Flower stall.
Flower stall.
Flower stall.
Plant stall.
Peter at the Market.
Market.
Beautiful market signs.
Church in the Cours Saleya.
Shops in the Cours Saleya.
Restaurants in the Cours Saleya.
There were lots of narrow winding streets and colourful buildings.There were lots of shops and places to eat.
Restaurants in the Old Town.
Restaurants in the Old Town.
Narrow streets in the Old Town.
Umbrella decorations in the Old Town.
Narrow building in the Old Town.
Santa.
These were many churches and a clock tower.
Clock tower.
Clock tower in the Old Town.
Church.
Church in the Old Town.
Peter in front of a church.
I mentioned already that the Bay of Angels took its name from the legend of Saint Repartee. The relics of Saint Repartee were originally placed in a shrine, but then a new cathedral was built to house them. The Cathedral of Saint Repartee stands on Rossetti Square. Construction of this cathedral began in 1650 and it was completed around 1700. It was built by Jean-André Guibert on the orders of Bishop Didier Palletis. Rossetti Square has a fountain and apparently a famous ice-cream shop. If Peter had known hed have been there.
Cathedral Sainte Repartee.
Cathedral Sainte Repartee.
Place Rossetti.
Place Rossetti.
There's also an attractive Town Hall in the Old Town.
Town Hall.
As we were in the Old Town on a Saturday there was also a flea market outside the Palais de Justice.
Flea market, Palais de Justice.
Basket stall.
Jewellery stall.
I spent about half an hour wandering, then returned for Peter who was on his second pint by then. I ordered a cappuccino for me and joined him.
We went home via the Place Masséna which is Nice's main square. This was designed by Joseph Vernier in 1844. The square has a large fountain called the Fontaine du Soleil which depicts Apollo.
Fountain of the sun.
Fountain of the sun.
Peter with the fountain of the sun.
These are also statues of kneeling men on top of columns. These men represent the seven continents and were created by Catalan artist Jaume Plensa. To one side of the square there was a large Christmas tree and a Christmas market. We visited it on our earlier stay, but not on this one. There's a big wheel here next to the Christmas Market.
Place Massena.
Big wheel.
To the other side there was a park with lots of Christmas trees replicating themselves in the waters of its reflective pool. Again we walked all the way along here on our first visit, but not this time. This is called The Promenade de Paillon. It used to be the site of the River Papillon which separated Nice's old and new towns. The river has now been covered up. On our previous visit there had been an ice palace here reflecting in the pool. It was so beautiful at night when it was lit up. The Christmas trees were beautiful, too.
Reflective pond.
Peter with the reflective pond.
Reflective pond.
We walked along the main street in Nice, which on a Saturday night was absolutely heaving with people. It was really difficult to move. It was a relief to get off and head down a side street back to our hotel.
Peter on the main street.
Gallery Lafayette on the main street.
That evening we went out to eat in a Sicilian restaurant near our hotel. We had really excellent pizzas. I had a four seasons one and Peter had a tuna and onion one. We washed them down with Bira Moretti and reminisced about Ventimiglia. Was that really only a week ago?
Peter with his pizza.
Me with my pizza.
Our pizzas.
Exploding Mount Etna on the wall.
After the meal, Peter insisted we went back to the unfriendly supermarket nearby to get some beers. I had intended never to go there again, but he wanted to experience it for himself. We went in and, to my surprise, all the staff were perfectly friendly. Perhaps I had crossed into a parallel universe the day before. Or perhaps my own bad mood had just affected everyone around me.
This featured blog entry was written by irenevt from the blog A Trip to Italy, France and Monaco..
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