We continue to love Croatia and wish they had a better long-term visa option! The food, the landscape, and the people are all just wonderful. Add to that it's probably the cheapest place we've been since Baja and we are under budget even with the added expense of entertaining for two weeks! If they had a way to stay longer, it would definitely be on our list. Alas, they don't and it isn't but it should definitely be on your bucket list!
It is a wonderful city with excellent beaches and it is also a great jumping off point for amazing day trips. Perfect location for Courtney to visit us.
KLIS FORTRESS
We take the public bus here almost every day. One goes from downtown at our market right to our apartment so we often take it after our walk and coffee and shopping in the morning. They are cheap, fairly easy to navigate, and mostly reliable. We've only been "stood up" twice and once was on our way to Klis. After waiting almost an hour, we decided "we're not that poor" (something we do now and then to excuse an extravagance) and hopped in an Uber. They are also fairly plentiful here and half the price of a cab. In any case...
Located 14 km outside Split, this fortress occupies a point overlooking the only real break in the mountains that surround the city.
It has been a stronghold since the third century BC and was occupied until after World War II. Famous for so much more than being Meereen in Game of Thrones, it makes a great day trip to learn the history of conquest and reconquest of this area.
It also commands an amazing view back to Split and over the islands.
It was a great introduction for Courtney to the amazing beauty of Split.
FARM TOUR ON MOSOR MOUNTAIN
After touring Klis in the morning, we were picked up by our local Air BnB Experience host, Marin, for a trip to his family’s farm and orchards. They have an amazing view back to Klis Fortress and out to the Adriatic.
Marin's family had owned their land for 500+ years and it is a testament to their love of the land as well as their ability to stay out of the political winds of change over the centuries that they have remained even as the fortress and the land around them changed hands. But the new winds of change are threatening these farms now as young people don't want to continue what their ancestors have built. Marin is struggling against this tide by branching into tours and tastings. He went to college but wanted to live the simpler life in his village and on the farm. We sincerely wish him the best of luck!
If you haven't ever looked into the Air BnB Experiences, you should. We've done a few now and they are a great way to get off the beaten track and meet locals. The farm has olive, almond, plum, fig, and pear trees - among others - as well as grape vines and lucky us everything was ripening! We ate pears, plums, and figs right from the trees. Courtney even got into the action on the old way of pressing olives.
Marin also gave us the history of the farm, explained the seasonal life they live including wild boar hunting, and showed us how they still make their own boar sausage, cheeses, wines, fruit brandy and schnapps, and bake their own breads. And then we got to sample everything!
Truly a one of a kind experience.
DIOCLETIAN'S PALACE CELLARS
Of course we revisited the palace with Courtney but this time we visited the substructures. We did it mostly because, of course, this is where Daenerys Targaryen kept her dragons in Game of Thrones but I am so glad we did. They are extensive and so interesting. In the Roman times, their function was to elevate the Emperor's chambers on the floor above so that the entire first floor would be level even though the land slanted towards the sea, but they were also the storage area for the Palace. It was hard to get good photos as it was pretty dark but here are a few.
Here and there, they open into sunken courtyards where you can look up at the rest of the palace.
If you ever get here, be sure to check them out.
DAY SAIL TO BOL AND ZLATNI RAT (GOLDEN HORN) BEACH
Speaking of splurging, we booked a day sail on the Polaris to Bol, Brač and the Golden Horn beach. The boat, having originally been built in New York and used as a tug in D-Day before being refurbished after the Yugoslav war, was beautiful.
The trip was great as we passed through the gates of Split between the islands of Šolta and Brač and then followed the south side of Brač all the way to Bol.
Getting out on the water is a must here and I'm really glad we picked this cruise. There are soooooo many to choose from but this one was really well organized, didn't try to do too much like rushing to five islands in one day, and they fed us and gave us free drinks! It was really relaxing and nice.
And, once we got to the beach, we had our own private wait staff! Ha!
As always here, the water was clear and warm and the beach was rocky, although they were smaller pebbles. It's one of the most famous beaches in Croatia and reviews will tell you not to go as it's too crowded. For us, that added to the fun. We'd definitely say "GO"!
Stay tuned for more from Courtney's visit and our exploration of Krka National Park. And don't forget to follow us on InstaGram @ arrradventures.
This featured blog entry was written by mrb430 from the blog Arrr Adventures.
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