The hanging coffins of Sagada

Community Highlights Asia The hanging coffins of Sagada

It had rained all evening and continued well into the night. Whenever I woke up, which I did several times, I could hear the noise on the roof even through my very good earplugs! But when we got up it was brighter and drier – for now at least.

Breakfast this morning was a buffet and as I was sure it would be as cold as yesterday’s dinner, I stuck to toast, cheese and jam, accompanied by very weak coffee. Then it was time to leave the Tam An Inn. While not as basic as many reviews had suggested, and the staff super friendly and keen to help, two nights here had been enough and we were happy to move on.

As we left Banaue Jezzy asked Edwin to stop at another viewpoint where it was possible to photograph some of the elders, for a fee of course. I asked the age of the two ladies I photographed – 85 and 92! Jezzy also showed us a traditional mountain wooden bike; great for going downhill but useless for uphill!

Our next stop was at a much better viewpoint, the Dianarra Viewpoint, where we got our best look yet at some of the rice terraces. Jezzy told us they were even older than the Bangaan ones we'd visited yesterday but not included in the UNESCO listing.

In the town of Mount Polis we stopped again, this time to have a look at the local market, one of the best in the area according to Jezzy. Certainly the produce looked very good, better than in Banaue yesterday. We met a local whom she knows, and she persuaded him to show us how they like to eat balut, or duck egg embryos. These were similar to those we saw, and Chris ate, in Phnom Penh a few years ago, but eaten differently. Here they like to add vinegar and salt and drink the juices straight from the shell before eating embryo and yolk. We also learned that Jezzy used to sell balut, and she clearly knew how to pick out the best ones with the embryo neither too big nor too small.

There were yet more rice terraces to be seen further down the road at Bay-yo. Here part of the mountain side and valley had been flattened to create rice paddies. Jezzy told us these were the oldest of all!

Bontoc

In the much larger town of Bontoc we visited the museum devoted to the traditions and customs of the indigenous tribes of the area, including burial customs. No photos were allowed inside, where many of those taken by celebrated Filipino photographer Edouardo Masferré were displayed alongside various artefacts.

Outside is a mock-up of a traditional village, where photos are allowed. We saw the atos, the village courthouse where young boys are introduced to all the learning of the elders. There was also a typical wealthy house with a model showing how traditionally a dead person is seated in a chair, known as a sangadil or death chair. Animal sacrifices would be made and the dead person would receive visitors and gifts. This seated position made it easier to place the deceased in a coffin in the foetal position, which according to local tradition is considere important as it is believed we should leave this life as we entered it. The coffin is then hung from the cliffs. These days that practice has officially been stopped but Jezzy said it still continues for those few who have requested it, a fact seemingly confirmed by the way our guide in Sagado later talked about it.

Sagada

From Bontoc we continued to Sagada where our first stop was for lunch in an attractive mountain side inn, the Lalouette Inn. My sweet and sour fish was very tasty as was the sizzling pork dish, sisg, Chris chose. We also like the tamarind soup Jezzy ordered for us all to share.

Visiting the hanging coffins

The coffins can be seen in various locations around the town. The locals are understandably keen that these sacred sites don’t become an Instagram phenomenon, so visits are only permitted with a local guide. The guides ensure that respect is maintained, including speaking with low voices and not taking ‘funny’ photos with the coffins. So after lunch we met up with local guide Ben who was very informative and friendly.

The path at first took us through the more modern cemetery. Ben told us how this was introduced by the Americans who also built a church, school and hospital here. He described the local custom of lighting bonfires by the graves, especially on November 1st (we could see the remains on the ground). On this exposed site candles would quickly be blown out, but a small fire will last much longer. Ben was keen to stress that this is a very different occasion from the Mexican Day of the Dead, though it shares the same roots and the same aim of remembering and honouring the ancestors. There has been some consternation locally that tour operators promote it as a tourist ‘attraction’ whereas the families would much prefer it to remain private.

Ben also pointed out the grave of a soldier whom he said died while on a mission to kill the terrorist thought to be behind the Bali bombing. However I’ve found no information to corroborate that online. Another was of a US national from Hawaii, an adoptee from Filipino birth parents, who was killed in the Korean War. There was also a memorial to the victims of WWII.

The hanging coffins tradition

As we walked Ben talked about the traditions and challenges associated with funerals here. Carrying the coffins to this remote spot, and hauling them up the cliffside, isn’t easy. People take it in turns to carry the coffin and it is considered an honour to do so. Furthermore, he said, if any liquids seep from the coffin onto the carrier it is seen as a special blessing, so people often compete for the chance to carry it. These fluids are thought to bring success and to pass on the skills of the deceased to any who come into contact with them.

The path led us to a viewpoint looking across the valley to some of the hanging coffins. We could see how Christianity had blended with local beliefs as one coffin had a large wooden cross on top. And the more modern coffins were larger, as the practice of burying in the foetal position is dying out.

Following the path down lower we came to a burial cave. I needed Ben’s help to scramble up the steep muddy slope to see inside. But it was worth it for the eerie sight of a pile of old wooden coffins topped by two skulls. Ben told us these skulls were from coffins that had rotted, exposing the contents.

A small and clearly newer box stood in front, engraved with the name of ‘Backis’. Ben explained these were the ashes of a German who had lived here for many years and wanted to be allowed to be part of this local tradition on death, an honour usually reserved for natives of Sagada. He had so much assimilated himself into local life that his wish was granted. His wooden stick lay on top of the box and his local name was carved on the front.

From here the path descends to give a closer look at the coffins across the valley but I decided to skip that after yesterday’s exertions, so Chris went on with Ben while I returned to the viewing area with Jezzy where I took more photos while we chatted. She pointed out what I had missed, another group of coffins on a more distant cliffside.

As we started to make our way back to the parking area the rain began again and soon after that Chris and Ben caught up with us.

On the far side of town we stopped again near two other burial caves. One was very near the road and was reserved, Ben said, for women who died in childbirth. The other necessitated a steep climb down on what would by now, with the rain, be a slippery path, so again I decided to let Chris go down with Ben while I waited at the top. On his return he told me that had been a wise decision as the path was indeed very slippery and had no handrail.

Sagada town

By now it was time to check into our hotel for the night, Masferré Country Inn. As Jezzy had warned us this was pretty simple and our room small, but it was more than adequate for the one night we would be here. The hotel is named for the Filipino photographer whose work we had seen in Bontoc and there were lots of his photos on the walls here too, but I’m not sure if there’s any connection or if the hotel owners are simply admirers!

We dropped off our bags in the room and went straight out for a stroll through the town, which is much more tourist-focused than Banaue. There was a scattering of street art murals and several coffee shops. Jezzy had pointed out one which she claimed had won best coffee in the world in 2017 so of course we had to go there. To be honest I have had better coffee elsewhere but it was good and certainly the best I’d had to date in the Philippines! And it was a welcome way to warm up in this chilly mountain town and relax after our explorations.

As we walked back to the hotel the rain, which had pretty much stopped, started again. We settled in a bit and used the WiFi, which was better than some reviews had suggested, to catch up with messages etc.

As in Banaue we'd been asked to pre-order dinner on checking in, but there the similarities ended. When we went to the restaurant at our chosen time there was a bit of a delay because they were cooking our meal, which meant that when it appeared it was hot! My salmon in lemon sauce tasted great and Chris enjoyed his Filipino style braised beef. We also had a good chat with Jezzy and her friend, another guide who was there with two French women. A very pleasant evening!

This featured blog entry was written by ToonSarah from the blog Travel with me ....
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