Ulgii - Sagsai - Ulgii

Community Highlights Asia Ulgii - Sagsai - Ulgii

Breakfast

We had been hoping for a bit of a lie-in this morning as we are not leaving until 09:00, but it is not to be: we are told last night that breakfast is only served between 07:00 and 07:30. We are therefore confused when we turn up in the restaurant at 07:15 and it is completely empty, no staff, no customers, no food. Obviously whatever we were told last night was lost in translation, as the first member of staff turns up at 07:30. It is nearer 08:00 by the time all the food for the buffet is brought out – so we could have had an extra hour in bed this morning. Oh well.

Kazakh Nomad’s Homestead

Today we are spending some time with a Kazakh Eagle Hunter and his family. Their ger camp, where they have spent the summer months, is on a flat piece of land outside the small town of Sagsai, and they will soon move into an apartment in the town for the winter.

Their ger is typical style, with one large room featuring four beds, one of which is decorated in the style of a honeymoon bed.

Mirbek, our guide and translator, jokes that the curtains make it soundproof!

As is the tradition, the youngest male child (they have eight children) stays with his parents in the family ger.

The Eagle Master with his grandson

His wife

The two oldest grandchildren get ready to go to school while we are there

The daughter-in-law with the youngest grandson

As soon as we arrive, we are served the traditional milk tea and a table-full of curd snacks. Hospitality is of great importance to the Kazakh Nomads, and we are considered respected visitors.

The rugs on the walls are all hand made, and the fox skin was hunted by the eagle and her master. When hunting, the master keeps the skin, and the bird gets the meat. That sounds fair to me.

Pots and pans

Curds left to dry

The grandmother lights the fire in the centre of the ger, using yak dung, and brings in a huge bowl of meat which she will cook for lunch.

Yak dung

Meanwhile we follow the eagle master outside to meet the eagles. But first we have to dress up in the traditional fur outfits.

The Eagle Master explains all about the eagle, while Mirbek translates: Female eagles chicks are collected while the mother is away from the nest. A net is used, but as eagles’ nests are usually found high up in the cliffs, lots of climbing is involved. Sometimes they use children for this. The young birds are then trained to help with the hunting, then when they reach sexual maturity, they are released back into the wild to ensure sustainability. It is mostly female eagles that are used by the eagle masters, as their hunting skills are generally superior to those of the male birds.

They are big birds

By special request, we are given a heavy duty glove and allowed to hold the eagle.

The bird is surprisingly heavy, and while the master suggests I wave my arm up and down to get the eagle to spread her wings, I struggle to just lift her, let alone wave her about.

David has more success (more muscle in his arms).

Eagle Hunting

The eagle master places a hood over the head of the eagle in readiness for the ‘hunting’.

She is not at all happy about it initially

But she soon calms down

As soon as they are both ready, the son rides to the top of a small nearby hill, carrying the eagle. Normally they will hunt in groups of three eagle masters, with one atop the mountain scouring the ground for sign of a fox, and the other two chasing the fox (or scaring him into leaving the lair). The hunter on the mountain will release the eagle which will immediately dive down and kill the fox.

What we are seeing today, is not a real hunt, of course, just a demonstration of the combined skills of the Master and his eagle. The eagle responds within a minute or so of her master calling, and lands dutifully on his outstretched arm. It takes a professional one to two months to fully train an eagle for hunting.

There is an unmistakable bond between the master and his eagle, and we feel incredibly honoured to have been part of this private display.

It is explained to us that these days the eagle hunting is carried out as a way of maintaining the tradition, rather than for actual hunting. They only hunt twice a year to ensure the fox population can be sustained. Hunting takes place after the first snow in winter as the fox loves to roll in the snow, and is thus easier to spot. An adult eagle eats around a kilo of meat each day, so for it to live on fox meat alone, would be totally impossible.

Lunch

The two ladies have been busy cooking a traditional meal for us, called besbarmak, meaning five fingers. The dish, which is usually reserved for special celebrations, is made with hung and dried horse meat, which is then cooked in a pot with lots of vegetables. It is served in one big dish in the middle of the table, with Adilla (our driver) cutting the meat into smaller pieces (in his hand, with a pocket knife), and everyone helps themselves from the one dish, using their hands.

Adilla carving

The food is absolutely delicious, with the meat very tender and tasty.

It’s time for us to say goodbye to our newfound friends and make our way back to Ulgii for our last night here in Western Mongolia.

These are the first trees we've seen in this area

Twister

Sheep and stark mountain scenery

Balbas

This Turkic war memorial from the 6th century, would have been one of many in the area, all erected in a line. Now it stands as a sole reminder of the heroic warriors who were killed in battles at this place.

A lone horseman

The road back to Ulgii is mostly gravel

Firdaus Restaurant

We visit another Turkish restaurant in Ulgii this evening.

The dessert I order – sutlaç - arrives first. It is a little bit like a creamy rice pudding, and is every bit as delicious as I remember from our last visit to Turkey in 2009.

Sutlaç and hot chocolate