We've been travelling for over 11 years and Thailand has emerged as a favorite stop. Until now, we’ve avoided Phuket for its reputation of mass tourism, but friends are living there so we drop our preconceived notions and plan a visit in the off-season. Of course, if you're on a short beach holiday, I would recommend visiting between November - April when the surf is less agitated and the jellyfish are vacationing elsewhere.
The studio at Re-Life The Windy, in the Nai Harn area of Rawai, is compact but super cute. The sunken bed challenges our joints and reminds us how important maintaining flexibility is. The rooftop pool is beautiful, Cafe Canelle next door is excellent, and we rent a scooter across the street from a friendly local lady. It's so easy and comfortable, we immediately extend a few nights.
Studio at Re-Life The Windy, Nai Harn - 37 euros/night
Monsoon season is kicking in, but we're equipped and ready to dodge the short, violent downpours in between periods of blazing, sun. The half hour scooter ride to Phuket Old Town is scorching, but the colorful Sino-Portuguese architecture, well-executed street art, and many shops and restaurants are worth the detour.
Homage to Thailand’s beloved King Bhumipol who passed away in 2016.
We collapse into the tiny air-conditioned Cafe’In and revive with ice-cold watermelon and mango smoothies. In retrospect, a later afternoon visit would have been smarter.
Nai Harn beach is just a short ride from our place. We score a table with a view and enjoy a late lunch at Rock Salt restaurant on the beach next to the Nai Harn Hotel.
Nai Harn beach, Rawai, Phuket
Sunset at Promthep Cape, Rawai
Choosing dinner at Rawai Seafood Night Market; cooked your way and served in the restaurant across the street.
A ride up the western coast of Phuket offers extraordinary views, a variety of beaches, and the very commercial Patong, famous for its neon nightlife. Kata Noi, Kata, Karon, each beach has its personality. We stop to swim at Kamala Beach where the surf is as good as the beach massage. In fact, most of our days in Thailand end with (8 euro) massages.
The beaches on the western coast of Phuket
Bangla Road, Patong
Phuket is so big it hardly feels like an island. And while some of the beaches are beautiful, we want to get away from the vast condo complexes, shopping centers, and frenetic nightlife. There are many islands (some mythic) off the coast, accessible by a network of ferries and speedboats, but be mindful in the off-season, routes and schedules are reduced.
The ferry to Koh Phi Phi takes 2 hours. My heart sinks as the ferry slows to offer a good view of (infamous) Maya Beach, located on an adjacent uninhabited island, that has recently reopened. If you've been living under a rock, Maya Beach rose to fame (and was destroyed thereafter by "set jetting") in the 2000 movie, The Beach, starring Leonardo DiCaprio. It closed to visitors in 2018 to give the coral a chance to recover. Already in low season, it is jammed with visitors. You cannot swim, but you can pose.
Crowded Maya Beach, Koh Phi Phi
Karst formations surrounding Maya Beach
The only thing worse is Koh Phi Phi itself. As soon we step off the ferry, I want to leave, but we’ve prepaid a couple of nights and I want to believe it’s not as bad as it looks. It is. There are no cars just yellow-tiled streets lined with crappy hotels, shops, and loud bars. It's definitely not Oz and represents everything that's wrong with tourism. This beats anything we've seen since we started traveling in 2013. Maybe we’re too old. I wonder what the 20-somethings think.
For 32 euros, the room at family-run PP Insula is basic but clean, quiet, and close to the ferry.
There aren't many people hiking the humid, slippery trails to Koh Phi Phi’s three viewpoints. 
Plumeria flowers on the path
A kaleidoscope of Tirumala butterflies
The panoramic views are beautiful and heartbreaking as we try to picture the giant wave that barreled through here, sweeping away thousands of lives.
Overlooking the bay that was pummeled by the 2004 tsunami, Koh Phi Phi
Surprisingly cosy dinner at Basil Bistro away from the beer pong
Walking along the beach after dinner
Very, very loud Banded bullfrogs come out at night during monsoon season
Given erratic boat schedules, frequent downpours and hostile seasonal surf, we skip the more remote islands further south (like Koh Lipe) and head east to Koh Lanta, a large island off mainland Thailand, south of Krabi.
Ferry to Koh Lanta
Koh Lanta is also the name and first shooting location of the French version of Survivor (2001). I could be guilty of set jetting. Famous for its very long stretches of sand and laidback atmosphere, it seems to cater to large groups. There are many big resorts along the western coast, though they are not too visible especially since most are closed in May. The few that are open are practically giving rooms away and the beaches are deserted. We've chosen name appropriate, LaLaanta Hideaway Resort. From the ferry, an open jeep drops us at the southern end of the island, a couple of miles from the national park. Tucked away on Bamboo Beach, the small resort is quite pretty with spacious bungalows. I should not complain given the price, but it really could use a makeover. Still, we're quite pleased with our room and we're able to rent a scooter; essential for getting around. Not a fan of the monkeys in this less developed part of the island, but I remind myself that we are the trespassers.
The bungalow at La Laanta Hideaway Resort is a steal at 36 euros with breakfast, Koh Lanta
Bamboo Beach is virtually private at the resort, but the only ones enjoying the rough surf are the casserole-size jellyfish!
View of Bamboo Beach from a distance. La Laanta Hideaway, lives up to its name.
Nearby, Kantiang Bay
Low tide at the lighthouse, Mu Koh Lanta National Park
The east coast of Koh Lanta is much less developed and has a distinctly local vibe.
Koh Lanta Old Town pier
A fishing village on the southeast coast
Due north of Koh Lanta, Krabi is the capital of southern Thailand. Like Phuket, the limestone karst formations, white sand beaches, and turquoise waters are stunning, Our hotel, Keereen Reeort, is in a forested area away from the pretty, but far too crowded for us, beach in Ao Nang. Brand new, the rooms are very comfortable overlooking a pristine pool with a gorgeous natural backdrop. Opening promo - 30 euros with a delicious breakfast.
As usual, we immediately rent a scooter.
A man and his elephant
Noppharat Thara beach, Ao Nang
Seafood salad with glass noodles, 4 Euros at Chomlay Restaurant, Ao Nang
On a ride through Krabi Town we stop along the river to admire the view. A friendly local convinces us to take a private longboat tour that turns out to be a lot of fun.
Longboat tour from Krabi town
Navigating through the mangrove
Koh Klang village on the Krabi River
We get off the boat to visit Khao Kanab Naam cave,
and a floating fish farm and restaurant.
The only way to reach the Railay peninsula is by boat. From one end of Ao Nang beach, longboats take you to Railay Beach in 15 minutes. Tickets are bought at a small kiosk in town. Once there are enough people, a shuttle takes you to the boat. Make sure you buy your return ticket (boat and shuttle) to avoid confusion and overpriced taxis on the return.
Boat to Railay Beach
Railay Beach, Krabi
Shrimp Pad Thai at Princess Resort, Railay East
The prettiest place in western Thailand has to be Khao Sok National Park. After much thought - Daytrip? Overnight? Hike the forest? Visit just the lake? - we sign up for a day trip to the lake. Perfect.
Khao Sok National Park
Pra Kai Petch cave
Lunch stop on the lake
Stunning kart formations
Drone shot Khao Sok National Park
Centered between Krabi and Phuket in Phang Nga Bay (Andaman Sea) are two large islands Koh Yao Yai and Koh Yao Noi. Given their prime location, it's hard to understand how these islands have yet to be (over) developed. Fear not, it's coming no matter how much the (predominantly Muslim) locals claim to be against it. Right now it’s still pretty much off the radar with a couple of luxury resorts, and plenty of affordable options. The speedboat leaves from Noppharat Pier in Ao Nang.
We decide to stay on the larger Koh Yao Yai, just because the speedboat from Krabi stops here and Baan Taranya Resort is offering an excellent deal.
21 euros with breakfast
A scooter is the best way to visit Koh Yao Yai
Yield to monitor lizards
Panang curry with chicken,
baked shrimp with glass noodles,
and yummy mango sticky rice - 12 euros for two, The Gala restaurant, Koh Yao Yai
Lam Haed Beach, Koh Yao Yai
A man cleaning up the beach, picks up a monster jellyfish. He says they don’t sting, but who wants to swim with that!
Crabs race around the beach
Klong Son Beach, Koh Yao Yai
Fresh grilled shrimp for lunch on the beach
A busy street, Koh Yao Yai
Fishing boats by Hin Kong Pier at Baan Taranya Resort, Koh Yao Yai
Hin Kong Pier in the evening.
From Chong Lard Pier we take a longboat to Koh Yao Noi. For $2 they load our scooter and in 10 minutes we're across. Low tide is so dramatic, you can practically walk.
This smaller island seems to have a bit more infrastructure and probably more nightlife but it's all pretty low key, especially off-season.
We stop to take a closer look at rubber sweating off trees into small white cups. We're so engrossed by the spectacle that we don't register the swarm of mosquitos until we are under attack. We race back to the bike screaming in pain as welts form on our skin!
Rubber plantation on Koh Yao Noi
At low tide, you can walk to the tiny island of Koh Nok. We watch from our lunch spot as a few people race against the incoming tide. It’s alarming how fast the sand disappears.
Tide cutting off the path to tiny Koh Nok
We go back to Phuket for a couple of nights at Hill Myna, a small cute hotel in Bang Tao away from the beach resorts and massive condo complexes that define Phuket. Most of the guests seem to be long-term, digital nomad types.
Hill Myna Holiday Park - 24 eu/night
Lunch at upscale Bartels Coffee, 18 euros, Phuket
There’s a swan in my cappuccino
Whole fish at Khumyaa restaurant - 11 euros, Phuket
We fly back to Bangkok, ducking in for a massage at Phuket Airport before departure.
Portraits of the King and Queen of Thailand at Phuket airport
Aerial views of Phuket
With a couple of days in Bangkok we hit the malls, great restaurants and food courts, and have at least one massage per day!
The Quarter Ploenchit, Bangkok - 38 euros/night
with see-thru bathroom
and rooftop pool
Breakfast at Café Tartine - 15 euros
The new Iconsiam mall across the river in Klong San
View of the river from the mall
Central Brussel’s famous viaduct Léopold II built in 1954, was gifted to Thailand in 1988 and is now called the Thai-Belgium Flyover Bridge.
One night in Bangkok
On this trip to Thailand we concentrated on Phuket, Krabi and the islands in between. While the scenery in the Andaman Sea is utterly spectacular, Phuket lives up to its reputation, Koh Phi Phi tops the list of places to avoid, and the laid-back beach scene in Koh Lanta is probably great for families in-season. Krabi offered similar landscapes to Phuket and an array of properties from cheap to luxurious, but the highlight there was Khao Sok National Park. And smack in the middle of the Andaman Sea, Koh Yao Yai and Koh Yao Noi are up and coming. Some will love them when there is more infrastructure, others will mourn the undisturbed nature. We like places that find the balance between both (read air conditioning and a decent cappuccino). But the things that keep us coming back to Thailand are the excellent price/quality ratio, sumptuous food and warm Thai hospitality everywhere. We are already planning our next trip.
This featured blog entry was written by SpiceChronicles from the blog The Spice Chronicles.
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