Monday 9th Sept 2024
Today we spent a full day exploring the Yasin Valley. This historic area is linked to a network of valleys that stretch across the north-west frontier of Pakistan and into the Wakhan Corridor region of Afghanistan/Tajikistan. Control of this region has been fought over for centuries, from Central Asians vying for the silk trade to more recently the British colonial powers. This high-altitude valley sits amongst the Hindu Raj Mountain Range, with a glacial river carving its way through the valley floor and is set to a backdrop of towering 6,000m+ mountains.
We set off from Gupis by 4WD at 8am and made our way towards the village of Darkot. Once again lots of bridges, beautiful scenery and lovely friendly people.
On the way we stopped at the village of Hunda. There is a memorial there for a Major Lalak Jan Haider. He died fighting in the 1999 India Pakistan war. He received the equivalent of the Victoria Cross.
We walked up the road for a chai. On the way we met these lovely ladies digging up the potatoes. We had a chat with them.
Some of them joined us for chai which was really nice.
We also had a fellow playing the sitar.
We then continued on our way.
Finally we arrived in Darkot.
We could see the glacier in the distance.
We continued until the road ended, so we left the jeeps behind and continued on foot hiking closer to Ghamubar glacier and lake.
Looking back to Darkot
Unfortunately one of our party Lee fell over and damaged her ankle so one of the jeeps took her back to Gupis.
We had lunch back at the jeeps and then walked around Darkot. The people were so friendly. We had at least 5 invitations to come in for tea, but unfortunately it was a long way back to Gupis so we had to decline.
The village has such a lovely outlook.
People would stop us along the way for a chat and wanted photos with us.
We stopped to have a chat with some school children.
They were busy thrashing the wheat.
Then we hopped in the jeeps and headed over the wooden bridge to leave Darkot.
We returned to Gupis later in the afternoon. On the way back we stopped for thyme tea at Mr Ali’s house. He wasn’t there as he had driven Lee to the hospital for an X-ray of her ankle. We wandered up an alley way to his house.
His wife and 2 daughters were very welcoming. After our tea we all had a photo together.
We couldn’t believe that one of his daughters walks 2 hours each way to college every day.
We made it back to Gupis just before dark.
Tuesday 10th Sept 2024
This morning we were heading to Karimabad. So we first back tracked to Gilgit. Same scenery but of course the people, transport and adventures were different. People just hang off vans, sit on top and they are piled high with goods.
It was very dusty today, at times you could hardly see the road.
Once through Gilgit we returned to the KKH and the continuing scenery.
We stopped en-route to see the view of Rakaposhi, a peak of 7,778 metres which juts out of the landscape and towers over other nearby mountains.
We also got to see part of the old Silk Road. Locally known as Kinu-Kutto, the section of road up on the cliff evolved from being a foot path into a pony track. It was later widened into a jeep road (only one jeep wide) in 1958-60. When the KKH was constructed in the 70’s the old Silk Road was no longer used.
More great scenery as Rakaposhi continued to follow us along our journey.
A local butcher.
Upon reaching Karimabad, we explored the 800-year-old Baltit Fort, which was the former seat of the Kingdom of Hunza. The architecture of the fort is quite striking and very much Tibetan in feel, in fact many remark on its similarities to the iconic Potala Palace in Lhasa. During the British times there were some extensions made and you could see that influence at times.
This was an old mousetrap which made us smile.
The views from the top of the fort were beautiful.
We just loved this gentleman he was happy for a photo.
Before dinner we finished the day by travelling out to Duikar Village, another viewpoint with glorious long-ranging views, to watch the sun dip below the mountains. We were also surprised to see the solar power station up there.
In the evening, we visited a local Huzakut family for an evening meal in their home, in a small village outside Karimabad.
Wednesday 11th Sept 2024
We woke early this morning as we wanted to see if there was any cloud on Rakaposhi. We were in luck, we had a lovely view of Rakaposhi and other mountains from the hotel balcony.
Setting off early this morning, we again headed out by four-wheel drive to the Hoper Valley. The roads were again interesting in places and we also drove through green farming villages.
We passed the gold collectors, some were camped down by the river.
There was even a marble mine.
Our first stop was at Hoper Glacier. There were 2 view points to see it from. This glacier was quite dirty.
We then headed back the way we had come.
We hadn’t realised driving up but while returning we noticed cannabis growing every where.
A view of Karimabad.
We then headed along the KKH. We stopped at the sacred rocks to see the 200BC petroglyphs.
The lovely scenery continued.
We then stopped at a view point to see Attabad Lake. This lake was created due to a massive landslide in 2010 which killed 20 people. The landslide also buried 19km of the KKH.
As a result of the original KKH being cut off from the landslide, for sometime you had to continue by boat. Then the Chinese stepped in and built several tunnels and a new part of the KKH.
We then continued on to Passu to see the Hussaini suspension bridge. Spanning 193 metres across the Hunza River, this rudimentary piece of engineering is no more than a collection of generously spaced, rotting wooden planks bound together with several pieces of steel cable. It was constructed in 1968, but has been renovated twice. Built by the locals, it is the lifeline that helps them transport goods and agriculture across the fast-flowing river below. We were not allowed to cross it for safety reasons but we could take a few steps on it. That was as far as I wanted to go anyway.
We continued on to Borith Lake where we stopped for lunch.
We then continued on in our vehicles until we came to the end of the road. From here we hiked up for incredible views of the Passu Glacier and its surroundings.
We had 2 last stops. The first was the Korgah Carpet Weaving Centre. It is run by a few women in the village.
There were 2 little kittens curled up there during the demonsration.
The second was an old 700 year old house which is now a museum.
After a long day we headed back to Karimabad.
Thursday 12th Sept 2024
Today we were starting our journey back towards Islamabad. The weather was even better today. Such a clear view of Rakaposhi and the mountains from the hotel.
Leaving Karimabad and the beautiful Hunza behind us, we headed east. We had some clear views of Rakaposhi.
We also got to see Diran. It was covered in clouds on the way up.
We once again joined the KKH.
We stopped where the continents collided. The sign tells you all about it.
Lots more scenery.
We then had to say farewell to our 4WDs and the drivers, so we had a photo together. We joined Kamran in the mini bus again.
We then stopped where the 3 mountain ranges meet. Himalayas, Karakoram and Hindukush.
We were also lucky enough to see a different view of Nanga Parbat.
There were lots of road works going on clearing a landslide. There was traffic everywhere. It was also very dusty.
We then headed back up to Babusar Pass. Last time we were here it was covered in cloud.
We passed Lulusar Lake.
Then we descended back down the Kaghan Valley to Naran. It was dark by the time we arrived. It had been a long day.
We went out for dinner. The chickens were cooking over the coals.
Friday 13th Sept 2024
Today we are sadly returning to Islamabad after an amazing couple of weeks. Continuing to lose altitude, we dropped back down to the foothills.
There were lots of shepherds taking their flocks to lower ground for the up coming winter.
We then reached Balakot. We stopped for a chai before continuing on our way.
In the middle of nowhere we found a man selling fairy floss.
Some more shepherds.
In the afternoon we explored the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Taxila, an ancient city dating back to 3500 BC, and fought over throughout the centuries by the many civilisations that inhabited this area. The renowned archaeologist Sir Alexander Cunningham rediscovered the ruins of Taxila in the mid-19th century.
Our first stop was Jaulian Buddhist Monastery.
Our second stop was Sirkap. Where there were ruins of a Main Street, shops and lots of side streets.
The Sun Temple and Sun Dial.
Double Headed Eagle Stupa.
Jain Stupa.
Round Stupa.
Then the Dharmarajika Stupa and it’s surrounding ruins.
Buddha’s Feet.
We finished off by visiting the museum where a lot of the artefacts they found are now safe and on display.
We stopped at a petrol station where there were some magnificent colourful trucks on display.
It was hot and humid, so we then headed back to our hotel in Islamabad.
After a rest we went out for our farewell dinner.
Saturday 14th Sept 2024
A short trip, but on our way home today. Another bucket list item ticked off our list. This was an amazing country. The scenery and people made this trip. It is up there as one of our favourite adventures. Friends and family were worried about us coming and Smart Travellers said "reconsider need to travel" to Pakistan, but at no time did we feel unsafe. It was absolutely fantastic.
We have a late-night flight back to Melbourne again via Bangkok.
This featured blog entry was written by shaneandnicola from the blog Pakistan.
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