A lot has changed since my last visit to Pokhara (starting point for Annapurna treks) in 1994, and at first I don’t recognize a thing. Paved streets are lined with restaurants, boutiques, hiking gear galore, and hundreds of hotels and guesthouses. The only place that feels slightly familiar is the lake where I fondly recall sipping beer with fellow backpackers.
A man selling flowers by the lake in Pokhara
We’ve organized a 9-day trek to Annapurna Base Camp, ABC for short. There is no set duration to trekking, but with our combined trekking history, factoring in our age and physical capabilities, and enough experience to know that you want to be finished for the day before it’s cold and dark, we create a flexible plan with https://www.polartreks.com to walk 4-5 hours a day with stops for tea, lunch and time to enjoy the spectacular scenery. The plan is 5 days to reach base camp and 4 days back.
We relish a couple more nights of varied food choices, and a super comfortable hotel room in Pokhara before setting off.
Ice-cold Belgian beer and
authentic Belgian fries at Frituur No. 1 in Pokhara
Hotel Murano, Pokhara 4800 Nepali rupees / $36 with breakfast
View of Annapurna South (l) and sacred mountain, Machhapuchhare - aka Fishtail (r), from the room
Sushi in Pokhara
Packing for the trek is simple. Warm layers, comfortable shoes, slip-ons for the lodges and showers, towel, water bottle, gloves, hat, sunscreen, sun glasses, etc. Do not take anything you don’t absolutely need - think of your porter. The trekking company has provided super warm sleeping bags, indispensable, adjustable walking sticks and crampons in case of icy conditions. Being prepared is essential. There are tons of blogs and websites if you need more help packing. We should have had warmer layers, but this was part of a longer trip in much hotter weather.
Day 1: Kande to Tolka
Our guide Bam, a skinny 30-something, and porter Harry, a jolly 50-something, pick us up at our hotel. The jeep drive is 90 minutes to the starting point, a tea stall on the side of the road in Kande. I’m a little nervous wondering if this is all going to be too difficult. While we sip tea and discuss details about the trip, a couple of Tibetan refugees approach with bags of bracelets. I’m too superstitious to say no.
Bam secures the load for Harry
The village of Kande, our starting point
The route
Within minutes of setting off, we’re breathing hard clambering up steep, stone steps, and Harry is the one carrying our packs!
When we stop for lunch in Pothana village, Bam reassures me that the first day is the hardest. I want to believe. Afterall, it’s just walking right?
Treks in the Annapurna region are notorious for the steps; up, up, up, down, down, down, over and over and over.
I could not be happier when we arrive at Hotel Namaste in Tolka (1600 meters / 5250 ft) after 4.5 hours of walking. The room is quite simple with two beds, bright green carpeting, and an attached bathroom with a hot shower. 750 NPR / $5.60. Dinner and breakfast for two about $20.
The views of Annapurna South are breathtaking, but as soon as the sun sets, it’s pitch black. We’re down for the night by 7pm.
Day 2: Tolka to Chhomrong
Locals on the trail between Tolka and Chhomrong
Looking back at where we came from
This is one of the most spectacular days given the crossing of two hanging bridges not mentioned in the planning phase; maybe that’s intentional. The first one over a river isn’t very long, and the old bamboo bridge it replaced makes it feel very safe.
The second bridge is visible from quite a distance and as a close friend remarked, “looks more like dental floss!” At 286 m / 938 ft long, and hanging about the same height above the valley, it’s scary but actually quite solid. If you’re afraid of heights, just fix your eyes on a point straight ahead.
The last mile, always the longest, is nothing but stairs and more stairs. After 6.25 hours of walking, we finally arrive in Chhomrong (2150 m / 7054 ft).
Panorama Point Lodge. Room with private bathroom and hot shower 1000 NPR / $7.50
The view of Annapurna South from the terrace at Panorama Point Lodge, Chhomrong
Meals are quickly falling into a set menu: porridge or eggs for breakfast, dal bhat (the traditional dish of rice, lentils and vegetable curry) for lunch, noodle soup and veg momos (dumplings) for dinner. With no heat, it’s so cold after 5pm, soup is the only way to warm up.
The menu, curated by Chhomrong Community Management, is the same at every lodge along the trek. The conversion rate is about 140 NPR for $1 USD, so 280 NPR = $2, 560 NPR = $4, etc. Prices increase with the altitude.
Dining room and charging station at Panorama Point Lodge
We eat, plug our phones, and head to the room by 6:45pm. I stuff clothes into the bottom of my sleeping bag, so they’ll be warm in the morning and zip myself in with a comforter on top and an extra one underneath. I still feel like I’m sleeping on a wood plank, because I am!
Day 3: Chhomrong to Bamboo
It is so toasty, I don’t want to get up!
Walking is tough today with endless steps up and down, but it would be much harder without the walking sticks. Truly a saving grace and essential gear if you are over 50. We pass many people on the trail. Everyone says, hello, asks where you’re from and how far you’re going. It is the end of the season and not too crowded.
A local tourist holding the uniquely shaped flag of Nepal, with Annapurna South in the background
An inspiring, elderly man navigating the endless steps
A Buddhist temple on the trail towards Bamboo, with Annapurna South in the distance
Absolutely everything is carried along these paths. During one water break, we chat with a guy transporting a heavy propane tank. He earns 20,000 NPR ($150) a month. I try to lift the basket but it does not budge!
Suddenly, bells are ringing and someone yells, “move!” Locals thunder by on horses, as if the terrain was smooth and flat. I only have time to catch this guy nonchalantly bringing up the rear.
Every tea house has a machine that uses reverse osmosis to purify water and eliminate the use of plastic bottles. It’s a little over a dollar per refill. We are drinking 3-4 litres a day. As we go higher and temperatures plummet, Bam recommends we drink warm rather than cold water. Very soothing.
After 5 hours of walking, we reach Hotel Greenview Bamboo Lodge (2300 m / 7545 ft). Room + two hot showers 1200 NPR/ $9.
The luxury of having a private bathroom is over. Mustering enthusiasm for the rudimentary shower a few doors down is quite the effort, but we take advantage of the boiling, hot water ($2) while we can.
Bam taking our dinner order in Bamboo to an indifferent labrador
The view of Annapurna South
Day 4: Bamboo to Deurali
We had planned to walk about 4-5 hours a day with lots of room for adjustment in case we were too tired, in pain, etc., but we’re very pleased with ourselves as we’re right on schedule, without incident.
The landscape on this stretch is completely different. The path winds around tall trees and knotted vines through a thick bamboo forest. With fewer stairs, it’s easier, but a layer of frost on the ground reminds us that now the altitude is a factor. The cheap gloves bought in Pokhara are not cutting it, so I try my angora socks as mittens and my fingers are warm for the rest of the trek. Tip: Don’t skimp on quality.
On the trail between Bamboo and Deurali
Even the leaves are getting cold
Water flows over the rocky mountainside by the temple
Looking back at the river below, where the day started in Bamboo
A Langur monkey monitors our progress.
Dal bhat for lunch at Himalaya village
A succulent seen only at higher elevations
Lunch comes with an unexpected treat - a professional Italian espresso machine! Imagine, someone lugged it up here!
Clouds are building just as we arrive at New Panorama Guesthouse in Deurali, 3200 m / 10499 ft. We’ve clocked 5.5 hours today.
Freezing cold room, New Panorama Guest House, 600 NPR /$4.50
Equally frigid dining room
Day 5: Deurali to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) with the option to sleep at Machhapuchhare Base Camp (MBC) if we cannot make it. Machhapuchhare, aka Fishtail (for the shape of its peak) is a stunning, sacred mountain designated off limits for climbers.
Machhapuchhare mountain
It’s 7AM when we set off from Deurali, and for the first time, the altitude is tangible. I should have eaten more for breakfast. Within a couple of hours, hunger and dizziness have taken over and each step is heavier as we approach Machhapuchhare Base Camp.
Walking along the river towards MBC
But food is fuel!
Lunch at Machhapuchhare Base Camp, 3700 m / 12140 ft, with a glorious view of Annapurna South
There’s some ice on the path so Bam fits crampons over our shoes for the homestretch. What a useful invention! The path from MBC to ABC is remarkably flat, compared to all the steps of the previous days, but the altitude is crushing. While we can see the base camp lodges in the distance, they feel like they are moving away.
Looking back at MBC as we make our way to ABC
Clouds rising from the Machhapuchhare valley below, as we to get closer to Annapurna Base Camp
Harry marching our bags towards ABC with rhythm and grace
After a bit over 6.5 hours of walking, we reach the iconic signpost welcoming us to ABC. To my surprise, I'm overwhelmed with emotion. I’m also frozen solid!
Annapurna Base Camp 4130 m / 13550 ft
Bam and Harry sipping tea at Annapurna Base Camp
We knew it would be cold here, but this is crazy. There is absolutely no heat whatsoever. In a lightbulb moment, we ask for hot water bottles and stuff them into our sleeping bags. Truly game-changing, though we still keep the several layers of clothes (have not changed in a few days), hats (have not removed in even more days), and gloves. We zip in leaving the smallest opening to breathe. Getting out of the cozy sleeping bag to go to the rudimentary, communal toilet is excruciating! Too cold for a photo of the room, but you get it.
Day 6: ABC back to Himalaya
The sun rising on Annapurna South at Annapurna Base Camp
View of ABC village
Now that we hit the goal, I'm ready to finish, but it’ll take 4 days to reach Pokhara. There's a thin layer of ice and flurries as we begin the descent. Muscles are sore and it’s harder on the knees. Every step is laser-focused; wouldn’t want to slip now. We’re retracing our steps, but it all looks different.
Cold, cold, cold on the way back towards MBC
Motivation is the espresso waiting in Himalaya village 6 hours away.
Fellow trekkers heading back from base camp
View of Machhapuchhare aka Fishtail
Himalaya Guest House, Himalaya, 2900 m / 9514 ft - Double room 600 NPR / $4.50
Day 7: Himalaya to Lower Sinowa 6.5 hours.
Absolutely everything at every lodge (they’ve stopped calling them tea houses now that they offer slightly more comfort) has been transported on the back of a skinny local, and more and more women. One can only watch in awe as they traverse the paths with ease.
A man hauling an oversized load
Others carrying heavy stones
from the stone quarry along the trail
A worker taking a break after cutting bamboo
Deliveries
In general, lodges at lower altitudes are more comfortable, so when we stop for the night at a less than appealing accommodation, despite my aching legs, I insist we push on to the next village where we are rewarded with a scalding hot shower, and homemade french fries with a beer by a soothing wood burning stove. The fire is a real treat as burning wood at higher altitudes is prohibited and we’ve had no heat for days.
A local carrying a tremendous load
Pretty flowers at Hotel Himal, Lower Sinuwa, 2000 m / 6562 ft
The room looks nice after 6.5 hours of walking
Day 8: Lower Sinuwa to Jhinu
I forgot just how many steps there are around Chhomrong. We are going down, but most of the day is spent climbing up! 
A barefoot trekker…
A red-breasted Meadowlark
The mother of all loads!
Bam’s friend is getting married today in Chhomrong. We stop to catch our breath, I mean watch the festivities, and pose for pictures with the bride and groom.
A wedding in Chhomrong
The newlyweds
Eventually, we make our way down to Jhinu for our last night. We’ve walked a little under 4.5 hours and could easily get to the jeep pick-up point and return to Pokhara, but we're celebrating a birthday and Bam has ordered and carried a cake all afternoon for our final night together. We check-in to the brand new Jhinu Hotel Park Himalaya. At a whopping 1500 NPR / $11.25, the queen bed and attached bathroom feel luxurious.
Hotel Park Himalaya, Jhinu, 1700 m / 5577 ft
The entire hotel staff joins the party. The birthday boy is draped with flowers and a bright yellow shawl, and each person feeds him a forkful of cake. A very sweet custom and a wonderful way to end the trek.
Day 9 Jhinu to Pokhara.
The only thing separating us from the jeep pick-up point in Samrung is a long hanging bridge.
Jhinu Danda suspension bridge
But animals have the right of way!
View of the Samrung Jeep Station from the bridge
The jeep ride back to our hotel in Pokhara takes 3.5 hours.
The trek was a challenge in difficult conditions, but the sense of accomplishment, stunning scenery, and extremely hospitable people were a delight. I may have voiced “never again” several times during the trek, but I’m pretty sure I could be persuaded to go back.
This featured blog entry was written by SpiceChronicles from the blog The Spice Chronicles.
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