13 March - 17 March 2024
After spending the night close to the town of Kenting our journey then turned north up the west coast. But not before we had visited the most southernly point in Taiwan.
Most southernly point of Taiwan
The town of Donggang was our destination for today as was a planned stop at the Dapeng Bay National Scenic Area. We first called in at the visitor centre to get some information and were greeted by an exceptionally helpful member of staff. She not only helped us plan our visit to the area but also assisted us in advance of our trip to Liuqiu Island the next day.
Very helpful and lovely lady at the visitor centre
Full of knowledge and ideas we started our circuit of the lagoon which incorporates the scenic and recreational area. First stop was the wetlands to see the water management and wildlife protection being carried out. Bayfun Pier and the marina was our next stop. Providing us with views of the local fishing fleet and the type of water-sports that were on offer. Short of time, we continued our circuit over the Dapeng Bay Bridge and on to our accommodation for the next two nights.
Dapping Bay Marina
Marina Bayfun Pier
The task for late afternoon was to find out where the ferry terminal was, in readiness for our trip the next day. That achieved we weaved our way through the back street to find the towns major landmark, Donglong Temple. The route in itself was fascinating as we passed numerous street traders selling fresh fish amongst other delights.
Street fish trader cold cabinet
Fish for sale
Street trader
Fish for sale
It wasn’t long before we arrived at the temple, impressive would be an understatement. Different, but equally as amazing as what we had seen in Taipei.
A vast gold plated entry arch with multicoloured sculptures on top, led us into a courtyard. Immediately to our left was an equally ornate building. Then a little further in was a building housing the ceremonial boat, covered in carved figures and prayer disks, and full of colour (see note below). Then finally the temple itself. More detailed carvings, more colour and lots of worshipers.
Entrance gate of Donglong Temple
Roof detail of Donglong Temple
Ceremonial boat at Donglong Temple
Shrine Donglong Temple
The cool and cloudy start to the day didn’t bode well for our trip to the island of Liuqiu. Not put off by the weather we caught the 10:45 ferry and hoped for the best. A 25 minute choppy boat ride got us to Baisha port, then it was a short walk to the bicycle rental shop. Our plan was to cycle a complete circuit of the island, around 14km, stopping at interest spots en-route. This sounds very energetic for a couple in their 60’s, that don’t normally cycle. Not so, we hired e-bikes, with battery power doing most of the work.
Our circuit was in a clockwise direction starting along the east coast. To begin with our progress was so swift we forgot to stop and take in the views. We soon corrected this and started to take more notice of our surroundings. The island is made of coral, which sea erosions has moulded in to curious formations. The greatest erosion has formed caves, one of which, Black Ghost Cave, we stopped and fully investigated. Temples of all sizes lined the road side, as they do in most of Taiwan. The numerous small beaches of crushed coral fringed the crystal clear waters that surround the island and are home to some of the most spectacular formations.
It took us three hours to circle the island. Which was ideal timing to return the e-bikes and catch the 15:00 back to Donggang.
Ferry from mainland to island
Harbour and fishing boats Liuqiu Island
Liuqiu Island Temple
Beach on Liuqiu Island
Vase Rock, one of Liuqiu Island attractions
Liuqiu Island smoked cuttlefish
Our eBike on the Island
We left Donggang and headed north west with Tainan as our destination.
En-route we called at the Foguangshan Monastery and Great Buddha. Spread over a vast site this is both a home to hundreds of monks and nuns but now also open to non worshiper.
We started at the monastery. A steep slope got us to the outer sanctum and were greeted by a carp pond and a few statues. When then climbed several flights of steps, bordered by rows of buddha, to reach the main gate. Beyond the main gate was a garden full of more buddha’s, all with different expressions and gestures. They reminded me of garden gnomes. More steps and another gate, then we were in the main courtyard with the shrine in front of us. Known as the “Great Hero Hall” the shrine building contains three 7.8m high buddha’s, two columns encrusted with 14,800 buddha images and walls covered with even more buddha statues.
One of the welcoming statue at Foguangshan Monastery
First stairs and level towards the Foguangshan shrine
Garden buddhas at Foguangshan Monastery
Foguangshan Monastery Shrine, the last opportunity for photography before you enter
Foguangshan Monastery resident
If we hadn’t had enough of buddhas yet there were more to come. From the shrine we followed a path that soon rose steeply, you guessed it, lined with gold painted buddhas. This led to a roof garden with more buddha statues and one enormous one in the middle. That of Amitabha Buddha standing 36 meters high. Albeit rather hazy, the gardens provided a good view of the surrounding landscape and the Gaoping River.
The path at Foguangshan Monastery leading to the big Amitabha Buddha
Amitabha Buddha
You would think we would be buddha’ed out by know, but no there was one more to come. Because of the size of the site we drove to the next part of the complex. More steps led us into the Buddha Memorial Centre then out the other side to gardens. A wide pathway, lined with large pagoda’s, led to a temple with an even bigger buddha sitting on top. This chap sits, 50m-high, or 100m if you include the temple base.
Buddha Memorial Centre, it's a long long walk to the end
That really was enough buddhas for one day so our next stop would be something quite different. Not far from Foguangshan is the town of Meinong and the heart of the Hakka culture. The town is supposedly littered with Qing dynasty courtyard houses. Unfortunately, their location eluded us, so we headed back towards Tainan, our base for the next three nights.
Meinong
After resting for a while we ventured out into Tainan’s streets. It was dark by now, but we have found that Taiwan often looks at its best by night. Brightly coloured lights lite the streets, with lanterns adding to the colour of the smaller ones. Our goal was Shennong Street, a short walk from the hotel. Illuminated by lantern light, this narrow street was a hive of activity with people crowding in and spilling out of the many small shops that lined each side. Selling the unusual was the theme and it reminded us of Tainan’s version of the Brighton Lanes in England.
Water Fairy Temple on our way to Shennong Street
Shennong Street, Tainan
The following day, eager to see more of Tainan, we mapped a route from our hotel to the first intended stop, Chihkan Tower. Distractions were everywhere from people going about their daily business, many temples of all sizes even ornate drain covers. The Water Fairy Temple was particularly lively, requiring a brief pause.
Although half of the Chihkan Tower was under covers for renovation, what we could see gave us a pretty good impression. This is the oldest building in Tainan and originally a Dutch fort dating back to 1653. Since then it has served many purposes and undergone multiple reconstructions. What is left is quite impressive and complimented by gardens and a stream.
Chihkan Tower
Street Procession
Street Procession in Tainan
Our next stop would be more modern and not Taiwanese. Past the impressive red walls of the God of War Temple and into the more upmarket part Tainan. Until a very regal building appeared on the opposite side of the road beconning us in. This was Hayashi Department Store, one of Japans most prestigious shopping establishments. Over seven floors, including a rooftop and restaurant, the best quality Japanese clothing, jewellery, etc were all on display.
God of War Temple
Inside the Hayashi Store, the Japanese multi level shop
Hayashi Store roof top which has a Japanese Shrine memorial
Street artist who reproduce movie posters
Posters painted by a street artist and displayed above shops
Although reluctant to leave the air conditioning, we had to head out into the heat to find lunch. Fortunately, the pavement to our chosen restaurant was covered, so cooler, and free of the usual scooter obstacles. Following a very nice meal, it was back to the hotel for some travel admin and escape from the heat.
Kitchen at the Du Hsiao Yueh
Inside the Du Hsiao Yueh Restaurant
Du Hsiao Yueh Restaurant meal
It wasn’t until after dark that we emerged again. Now in the cooler evening we were ready for a bit of shopping and cocktail or two. Shopping complete we found an interesting bar with street seating. This allowed us to people watch whilst sipping our cocktails. What we hadn’t planned, and resulted from translation mistake, was the purchase of a Shisha. Still you have to try these things when they are presented to you.
Burning of fake money donated during the day
Wind God Temple Saturday Movie Night
watching movie at the Wind God Temple
Shisha and Cocktails, Tainan by night
It was even hotter on our last day in Tainan. An early morning stroll found the streets quiet, except for the Wind God Temple where there always seems to be something going on. Today music was playing, masks were being worn and offerings of all sorts were going in at out of the shrine. Fascinating to watch even if you don’t know what is going on.
Wind God Temple Ceremony
Cooling off at the end of the Wind God temple ceremony
Sunday ceremony at the Wind God Temple
Tainan streets
Betel Nut production, aka Taiwanese chewing gum
The rest of the day consisted of lunch at our now favourite restaurant and a bit of provision shopping. Then out of the heat to relax.
Personal Observations & Interesting Facts
Donglong Temple Ceremony
Once every three years local devotees stage the dramatic Donglong King Boat Festival. The climax of the festival is the spectacular burning of a large wooden vessel, filled with replicas of everyday items, in honour of the folk god Wen Hong. The festival is intended to rid the town of plague and demons. In the week before the main event the boat is carried around the town, collecting disease and evil spirits, ready for the burning.
This featured blog entry was written by MAd4travel from the blog MAd4Travel.
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