08 March - 12 March 2024
An 11:45 express train transported us from the centre of Taipei, east to the coast and then south to the town of Hualien. It wasn’t long out of Taipei that the scenery changed completely. Suddenly concrete was replaced by trees. Everywhere was lush in green foliage and the size of the communities had shrunk in size. Rice paddies were a common site, stretched out between scattered housing. Factories and heavy industry became more prominent. As the journey progressed the forest clad hills turned into mountains and the sea was visible out of the opposite carriage window.
Train Journey from Taipei to Hualien
Scenery from the train journey
Some of the industrial scenery from the train journey
By mid afternoon we were in Hualien and at our comfortable little hotel. The rest of the day was spent looking around Hualien and grabbing a bit to eat. Tomorrow we start our Taiwan road trip.
Friendly staff greeted us at the car rental office and with paperwork complete and car readied, the road trip was up and running. The first job was to negotiate urban Hualien. Fairly straight forward provided you stay alert to the motor scooters coming at you from all directions.
Once out on the open road the driving was much more relaxing. Our route took us inland away from the coast. Soon we were cruising down highway 9 in the East Rift Valley National Scenic Area. A lush green environment with the Coastal Mountain Range to our east and the Central Mountain Range to our west. We passed through small rural towns and crossed bridges above almost dry rivers . All the time accompanied by rice paddies, each in a varying state of cultivation.
Rice paddies
Toilet notice lost in translation
Just after crossing the Tropic of Cancer we arrived at our first destination, the Yushan National Park. A quick stop at the Nanan Visitor Centre and the nearby waterfall, then it was on to the start of our afternoon hike. There are many trails in the National Park, some have been used for thousands of years by the indigenous population and some developed during the Japanese occupation of Taiwan. The hiking trail we choose, the Walami Trail, was the most accessible and well maintained. From the parking area the path climbed gently into the mountains. River gorges are crossed by suspension bridges and purpose built platforms have been built to provide great views of the waterfalls and surrounding area.
Waterfall in Yushan NP
Suspension Bridge in Yushan NP
Hiking in the Yushan NP
We were also lucky with the wildlife sighting. Not far up the path we encountered a small group of Formosan Rock Monkeys. They seemed as interested in us as we were in them. Further along the trail we were lucky enough to see a Mikado Pheasant. We kept quiet and still whilst it foraged on the path before disappearing into the undergrowth.
Mikado Pheasant
Formosan Rock Monkey
The Walami Trail is popular with locals and we met many couples, families and groups as we progressed. All pleased to greet us with a “Hello” and sometimes “Goodbye”. To which we responded with a “ni hao” (hello in Chinese).
Local hikers crossing one of suspension bridges in Yushan NP. It was build by the Japanese during their occupation Taiwan. The inscription on top is Japanese not Chinese
Invigorated by our hike it was now time to continue our journey to our accommodation for the night. First an early dinner in the local town of Yuli then on to An Tong Hot Springs were we spent the night. As usual we were received with a warm welcome and communicated with the hotel manager via “Google Translate”. Daylight wasn’t on our side so we left exploring the hot springs until the following morning.
A leisurely breakfast and an exploration of the hot springs right outside our hotel, started our day.
An Tong hot springs where we spent the night
A Tong hot springs, very hot temperature, between 60 and 66 centigrade. you have to be careful not to get burns
We then began the drive over the Coastal Mountains to Taiwan’s east coast. The cloud was higher than it had been the previous day so the view was much better. This meant a couple of mountain view point stops to take photo’s.
Views from the coastal mountain road
Formosan Rock monkey
View from the coastal mountain road looking down on the east coast. In the background is the location of the 8 arches bridge
Once on the other side of the mountains we followed the coast road south towards our evening destination of Taitung. Our first stop was Black Rock Bay to take a look at the local fishing fleet then on to the Sanxiantai Arch Bridge. Sanxiantai Island and the adjacent land are a unique biodiverse hotspot and to allow visitors to enjoy both areas a bridge has been built between the two. However, this is no ordinary bridge, but one with eight arches in the shape of waves and represent China’s eight immortals. This fascinating and unusual landmark was an enjoyable second stop.
Traditional fishing boat
Sanxiantai Arch Bridge
Sanxiantai Arch Bridge
Our final stop of the day was the Amis Folk Centre. The Amis are one of the indigenous groups that still occupy this part of Taiwan and the Folk Centre provides an incite into their culture. When we arrived a music performance was in progress, so we watched this for a while, before looking around some building re-creations.
Amis Folk Centre
By late afternoon we had reached our accommodation in Taitung. With a top floor spacious room and great views of the mountains and the sea. We decided to dine in and enjoy our room.
A short walk from our hotel were two attractions we wanted to explore. We started with Taitung Seaside Park with its sculptures, bridges and walkways. Not as interesting as we were expecting but the interaction with the locals made up for it. About half way through the park we turned around and backtracked along the beach. That was until our progress was halted by a river emptying into the sea. It was a bit too deep to cross without taking our shoes and socks off, so we decided to turn around and find an alternative route. That was until a kind local guy offered to ferry us across on his 4x4. With the offer greatly accepted we climbed onto the side of the vehicle and across we went.
Sea Side Park, the boat in the background is a sculpture made of different aluminium squares
Taitung Sea Side Park
Friendly looking offered us a ride across the river as we were stuck
It was now time for our second attraction, Taitung Forest Park. This time our expectations were met. A beautiful little park with attractive foliage and water features. Cut off from the noise of Taitung's street with only bird song to interrupt the tranquility.
Taitung Forest Park
Beware of poisonous bees and snake!
Lake in the Forest Park
The afternoon was spent in the streets of Taitung with the goal of buying provisions but also to have a look around. As is often the case with these street walks, you stable upon things you weren’t expecting. We were amazed by the number temples tucked away amongst the shops and business and the size of some off them. We even came across a theatre performance going about its rehearsals and happy to let us watch for awhile.
One the many temple in Taitung
Another Taitung temple but Buddhist
Going for a walk in Taitung leads us to some interesting site such as this theatre rehearsal
theatre rehearsal in preparation for a night festivity
The next day our Journey continued south from Taitung, again hugging the coast road. The drive was at times spectacular. Huge waves crashed on to isolated beaches, fuelled by a strong wind blowing that day. At times the road appeared to be hung from mountain cliffs with nothing but sea below. Even when we turned inland the view continued to be impressive. From the coast, the road wound into the mountains with thick forest on either side. Eventually we reached a long tunnel through the mountains, emerging on the south west coast of Taiwan. We then continued south, this time following the west coast road, until we arrived in Kenting. We were now almost as far south as you can go in Taiwan.
Just above the town of Kenting is the Kenting Forest Recreation Area, and our entertainment for the afternoon. Part protected forest and part botanical garden this 435-hectare site is a maze of trails. We spent the whole afternoon walking almost all of them. Massive fig trees cling to inland coral, caves displayed unusual shaped stalactites and vantage points provided views of the surrounding area. We also had the company of Formosan Rock Monkeys on occasions. A very pleasant way to spend an afternoon.
Kenting Forest Recreational Area
Kenting Forest Recreational area
one of the cace in Kenting Forest Recreational Area
Wasp Moth
Aerial view of the most southernly point of Taiwan from Kenting Forest Recreational Area
Personal Observations & Interesting Facts
When is a traffic light not a traffic light?
Taiwan has directional traffic lights and warning traffic lights. Both look very similar. A warning traffic light is placed around 100 meters before the official traffic light and is illuminated in the same colour as the official one you are about to approach. If the official one is red upon your approach so would be the warning traffic light. This confused us a bit at first. But we very quickly realised that only the official traffic light is accompanied by white lines on the road. It is only there should you stop for a red light.
Military Manoeuvres
Throughout our stay in Taitung we had been aware of military aircraft constantly flying over head. This we found out were training aircraft for the Taiwan Airforce. But as we left the town we realised it wasn’t just the airforce but the army were also training here as well. It was a strange sight to see a soldier, with rifle, crouched down beside the traffic light we were waiting at. We weren’t concerned as it was obvious just training as the commanding officer was just chatting in a carpark across the road.
Air Force training aircraft
This featured blog entry was written by MAd4travel from the blog MAd4Travel.
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