Monday 27th Nov
We left Gangtey and the drive was around 3 hours to Punakha, but we made a few stops along the way.
More great scenery.
Even a big bee hive with honeycomb hanging down from the rocks.
We stopped at Wangdue Phodrang Dzong. It was burned down in 2012. It took 10 years to rebuild and has not been open long.
Next stop was a hike to Chimi Lhakhang. It is a Buddhist temple for fertility. We hiked along dusty paths and through agricultural fields of mustard and rice. All houses in the village have paintings of phalluses on their exterior walls and lots of shops selling all shapes and sizes.
We then visited Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Nunnery which is perched on a ridge. The temple complex houses a temple, a chorten and a nunnery. The temple complex also houses a permanent higher learning and meditation centre for nuns where, apart from religious training, it provides life skill training such as tailoring, embroidery, statue making and thangka painting. What a breath of fresh air these nuns were. So friendly.
Later in the afternoon we arrived in Punahka which served as the capital of Bhutan until 1955 and is still the winter seat of the Je Khenpo (Chief Abbot). Blessed with a temperate climate and fed by the Pho Chhu (male) and Mo Chhu (female) rivers, Punakha is the most fertile valley in the country. A high of 25 degrees today, so much more temperate. This was the view from the nunnery.
The view from our hotel room.
Tuesday 28th Nov
What a great day. We explored the area around Punakha today.
We had an early start this morning. We drove about 45 minutes to start our trek to the Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten.
The Chorten is up on the hill so that is where we headed.
The trail takes you over a suspension bridge above the Mo Chhu River
Then through picturesque rice fields.
Then the track slowly winds up the hill.
Lovely views as we looked back.
We finally arrived at the gate.
The Chorten was built to remove negative forces and promote peace, stability, and harmony in the changing world. Commissioned by the Queen Mother, it took nine years to build this 4-storey temple. The temple is dedicated to the well-being of the kingdom, its people, and all beings.
We climbed to the top of the Chorten where the views were amazing.
Once back down we had time to reflect on our hike.
We also got to see some of the horses that come down from the higher pastures during winter. They are being rehomed until the winter is over.
We then had the opportunity to go over the longest suspension bridge in Bhutan. It is 160 metres long.
Even stopped for a chat with the locals on their way to vote.
In the afternoon we visited Punakha Dzong. It is located on the junction of the two rivers. This Dzong is the second oldest in Bhutan (built between 1637-38) and is still a working monastery. During its life it has survived six fires, two floods, two earthquakes and endless sieges from Tibetan armies.
It is so beautiful to look at.
The entrance.
Walking across the bridge.
This is the smaller monastery built in the 15th century.
Then into the main part of the fortress.
Wednesday 29th Nov
This morning we drove 5 hours to Paro, stopping at the Simtokha Dzong. The oldest fortress of the Kingdom, the Dzong overlooks the entire Thimphu Valley. The monks were literally sitting their exams.
We then stopped at the Paro Tachog Monastery founded in the 15th Century. The landscape had changed to quite arid hillsides. Although no longer in use it has a chain bridge.
Now a days you use the suspension bridge.
In the afternoon, we visited Rinpung Dzong. The 'fortress of the heap of jewels', was built in 1646 by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. The approach to the Dzong was through a traditional covered bridge (called the Nemi Zam) and then up a paved stone path running alongside the imposing outer walls. Not so these days but it sits magnificently on the hill.
Then the Ta Dzong. Located on a ridge immediately above Rinpung Dzong. Ta Dzong was originally built as a watchtower to protect Rinpung Dzong; ‘Ta’ means ‘to see’ in Dzongkha, so the watchtower of a Dzong was called ‘Ta Dzong’. On account of their function, watchtowers are always round in shape. In 1968, Paro's Ta Dzong was inaugurated as the National Museum.
Good views of Paro town and the only airport in Bhutan.
This is the Royal Palace where the king stays when he is in town.
We then had time in Paro to do some last minute shopping as the shops are shut all day tomorrow due to elections. Paro is home to many of Bhutan's oldest temples and monasteries. The Paro valley is one of the Kingdom's most fertile, producing the bulk of Bhutan's famous red rice from its terraced fields.
Thursday 30th Nov
This morning we had an early breakfast and set off at 7.30 for the day we had been looking forward to. We drove just over half an hour to our starting point for what is known as the highlight of Bhutan. We hiked to the Taktsang Monastery (Tigers Nest). One of the most famous monasteries in Bhutan. The monastery is perched on the side of a cliff, 900m above the Paro valley floor at around 3100 metres above sea level. It is said that Guru Rinpoche arrived here on the back of a tigress and meditated at this place, hence why the monastery is also called 'Tiger's Nest'. This site, which has long been recognised as a most sacred place, was visited by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal in 1646, the religious and temporal ruler of Bhutan. It is a place of pilgrimage that Bhutanese try to visit at least once in their lifetime. In April 1998 a fire severely damaged the main structure of the building, but it has since been fully restored to its original grandeur.
As we started the hike we could see it high up on the hill.
The first part of the hike took a couple of hours slowly winding upwards. It was pretty cold to start with.
We stopped at the cafeteria for a short break where we could again see the monastery.
We then continued on to the second stage of the walk from the cafeteria to the lookout opposite the monastery. Wow we were absolutely exhausted but boy the view was so worth it.
The final stage is the trek down the steps in the cliff face to the bottom of the ravine which crosses over a stream and waterfall before the path again ascends to the entrance of the monastery.
Once here we entered the monastery and viewed the cave where Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal meditated. We could not take photos in there.
But we did get a photo of the windy steps across the ravine that we had gone down. That part was uphill on our return.
We then returned to the cafeteria where we had a vegetarian lunch served by the monks. As we wandered we couldn't stop looking at our achievement.
Then slowly made our way back down.
To say I was exhausted was an understatement. I still can't believe I did it.
Friday 1st Dec
This morning we said farewell to Bhutan and headed to the airport for our flight back to Kolkata. We absolutely loved Bhutan, a country well worth a visit.
Saturday 2nd Dec
As we were back in Kolkata we headed out to see some of the sights. It was again a real culture shock after quiet calm Bhutan.
Our first stop was to explore the flower market. Located beneath the east end of Howrah Bridge, it is probably eastern India's largest flower market with hundreds of stalls. Wow it was colourful and hectic.
We also had a great view of Howrah Bridge, one of the busiest cantilever bridges in the world. Over half a million people per day use the bridge.
We then visited Kimhartuli, it is an artisan’s colony where clay idols are made for Hindu festivals. It was interesting to see how they started them off using straw, then cover them in mud after that to model them.
Loading of the gas bottles.
Then on to Bhagwan Sheetalnathji Jain Temple. This temple is one of the famous Jain centres of pilgrimage. The main temple is known as Paraswnath Temple. It was built in the year of 1867.
St Pauls Cathedral
After lunch we stopped at the magnificent Victoria Memorial. Commonly known as the British Taj Mahal. Built using marble from other Indian palaces, including marble once found in the Red Fort in Delhi, this grand, white marble building was built in honour of Queen Victoria after her death. It was spectacular.
Inside the memorial.
There was a big park around it where people were having picnics. Lots of Indian Palm Squirrels running around.
Our last stop was to visit Mother Teresa’s house and tomb. There was a small museum and you could see the room she lived in but could only take photos of the tomb.
Tomorrow we head to the airport for our flight home. Another amazing trip with another thing ticked off the bucket list.
Oh and by the way, we did it with just our 7kgs of hand luggage which included all our cold weather gear. So proud.
This featured blog entry was written by shaneandnicola from the blog Bhutan 2023.
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