Our favorite place? Thailand certainly tops the list. Monsoon, might not be the ideal season to visit, but we don't mind a torrential downpour here and there; if only it would cool things down. Bangkok is a steambath in June!
View from a walkway overpass, Bangkok
The self check-in instructions for our Airbnb near Asoke BTS (skytrain) are precise and we settle in easily.
Studio near Asoke BTS $25/night
Having been to Bangkok many times, we like to be near the skytrain which runs above ground and connects easily to the airport train and the MRT (metro) as well as the major shopping malls. Note: The Airport link and MRT require separate tickets. There are lots of neighborhoods to choose from. Our favorites include Phrom Phong, Thonglor, and Ekkamai though along the river and the canal, with novel boat transport, are nice as well. For first timers, we would recommend avoiding Khaosan Road, unless you are looking to party with other tourists in a raucous environment. Finding a comfortable place for any budget in Bangkok is easy and many options come with pools and gyms. We choose rentals on the lower end of mid-range +/- 35 euros a night; 50 - 100 euros buys you luxury with dozens of places to choose from. If you’re going mid-range, rentals are often nicer and offer more amenities than hotels. Do the research.
People waiting patiently for the OK to board the train in Bangkok. So civilized!
Having visited the city’s beautiful historical sites in the past, we spend a few days kicking around Bangkok’s uber-modern malls, gorging on delicious food, and finishing with heavenly massages.
Yummy pancakes at Doi Soi 12
Fresh fruit and delicious coffee at Breakfast Story
For serious swimmers, if you can find it, there's a large, pristine, outdoor public pool in Benchasiri Park near Phrom Phong BTS. You'll need a medical certificate from a local doctor and the (inexpensive) annual pool pass. It’s a beautiful pool and you'll be swimming your laps alone. If swimming isn't your thing, there's a nice view of the pool from the food court at the top of the adjacent Emporium Mall, home to every luxury brand you can think of.
Pool in Benchasiri Park, Bangkok
The movie theater in Emporium Mall offers seats from $10 - $50 per person depending on how comfortable or isolated you need/want to be. The cheapest seats are so comfortable it's hard to stay awake thru the new Indiana Jones, but maybe it was the movie itself.
The trip to the island of Koh Samui starts on bustling Khaosan road. If you have less time and no baggage, flying is the way to go, but we opt for the +/-15 hour VIP night bus/ferry combo. Once we get through the chaos of check in and navigating our luggage through the crowded streets to the waiting bus, it's a comfortable ride, though don't expect to sleep well on a moving bus.
Check-in at Lomprayah Bus office, Khaosan Road, Bangkok
Restaurants and bars around Khaosan Road
The bus makes just one 30-minute stop in the middle of the night and arrives at Chumphon Pier around 6AM.
3AM rest stop
There’s an hour wait at the pier for the ferry. Once they give the go-ahead, we fall in with hundreds of people lugging suitcases along the supremely long, wooden pier to a modern catamaran waiting in deeper water at the very end. With the sun rising and fatigue, the atmosphere is surreal.
The ferry takes a few hours with stops at Koh Tao, Koh Phangan and finally our destination, Koh Samui. Efficiently organized chaos at Mae Haad Pier gets us dropped off at our guesthouse run by a very friendly Russian man who looks like Barney Rubble and who does not seem to think his cave is a dump! Delirious from the night of travel, we stumble into the closest restaurant on the beach for breakfast. The place is delightful and they have a bungalow available. We move the next day. There's hardly a soul on this, the prettiest stretch of Mae Nam beach.
Wandee Bungalows, Mae Nam Beach, Koh Samui, 26 euros/night
The most convenient way to visit Koh Samui is to rent a scooter. At first, the island does not seem particularly pretty, but once you start exploring off the main roads, there are some stunning spots.
Wat Plai Laem temple complex
Low tide around Wat Phra Yai (Big Buddha temple)
4 Monkeys Cafe, on the road to Nathon with Koh Phangan in the distance
The beach at 4 Monkeys Cafe
Bungalows along Mae Nam Beach
Soft-shell crab for just $8 and green curry at Mr. Kai Kitchen
Koh Samui has upscale resorts, private beach villas, and tons of hotels and restaurants for every budget. July is definitely off season with many places closed, but that makes traffic manageable and there are few to no tour buses.
Eggs Benedict at Copper Cafe
Tree Bridge Cafe and zip line near a trickle of a waterfall
Garlic pepper pork and basil chicken $3 each at The Fish
Favorite dessert, mango sticky rice
One afternoon, we ride down a long, empty street into Fisherman’s Village. It is supposed to be one of the most popular places on the island, yet the cafes, restaurants and shops on the pedestrian street along the beach are rather quiet. It looks very touristy and there are nicer beaches, so we move on. We stop for dinner at Si Khao Night Market. The grilled whole fish is divine, though all the plastic and styrofoam is disheartening.
Si Khao Night Market, Koh Samui
A few nights later, on the way back from another delicious meal at Si Khao, we stop by Fisherman’s Village to see what all the commotion is about. Main Street has morphed into a full-blown “Walking Street” with stalls selling everything from T-shirts to grilled scorpions and other critters, and crowded bars and restaurants pulsating with live music.
Walking Street at Fisherman’s Village, Koh Samui
Grilled scorpions!
Words to live by, Koh Samui
Wandee Bungalows, Mae Nam Beach, Koh Samui
After 7 days, it's hard to leave our cozy beach, but we decide to move to Koh Tao.
Island ferries
The ferry stops at Koh Phangan, famous for its full moon parties. A few years ago, we spent a great week exploring that island so we continue on to Koh Tao the smallest of the 3 islands in the Gulf of Thailand.
Mass transit, Koh Tao pier
Koh Tao is known for scuba diving, mainly because it’s a great place to get certified, not so much for the quality of the reefs. The island draws a very young crowd and while there are a few upscale resorts, it is a backpackers paradise. A scooter is de rigueur for getting around the island easily and accessing the remote coves and viewpoints.
Breakfast at Nui Bakery
With superb coffee designs
Made by the multi-talented barista
At 36 euros/night Aiya Resort is a fantastic find, though it’s not a resort, but rather 20 or so clean, modern rooms around a pretty pool off a quiet street above Sairee Beach.
Aiya Resort, Koh Tao
We rent a scooter from the hotel for 7 eur/day and spend 5 days checking out every corner of the island.
Hin Wong Bay
Delicious eggs and avocado breakfast at The French Market
Pad Thai pork $2 at The Rose Garden Restaurant
Chak Baan Kao Bay beach
Stir fried garlic pepper chicken $4 on the beach
On the road in Koh Tao
Very often the road just ends. After reading some of the reviews of getting to Mango Bay Viewpoint, we decide to leave the bike and hike the last 2 kms to the top. The road is unbelievably steep and sometimes difficult and we are relieved that we didn't attempt it with the bike which would have surely been bruised. The exertion in the crushing heat is formidable but the view and hammock at the top are worth the effort. Even better, we are alone.
A hammock with a view, Mango Bay Viewpoint, Koh Tao
Nearby the entrance to Freedom Beach is a path leading to the John Suwan Viewpoint. We hike almost to the top, but the scorching heat and flip flops make climbing over the gigantic burning boulders near the summit impossible. We settle for a 2/3 ascent and compare the view we have with a guy coming down. Pretty similar. The Sun Suwan 360 Bar with views on both sides is awfully nice and much easier to get to. There is a full bar but my favorite is always a fresh coconut. Gonna miss those.
View of Shark Bay
Views of Freedom Beach
Koh Tao suffered tremendously during Covid and many places are abandoned and in dire need of repair like the resort at Jansom Bay. It's private property so there's a small entrance fee. To get to the beach you have to walk thru a large abandoned resort.
There is hardly a soul on the beach. If you continue along the path past dozens of dilapidated bungalows, you get to Sai Nuan Beach. Note: Sai Nuan Beach can be reached more easily by road.
Jansom Bay beach
Sai Nuan beach
Like Koh Samui, we could easily spend a month in Koh Tao searching out all the spectacular coves, beaches and viewpoints, while enjoying all kinds of delicious food on a micro budget.
Hin Wong Bay beach
Horizon Morn Bistro, overlooking Tanot Beach
Pizza at The French Market
Freedom Beach
The Happy Monk restaurant at the opposite end of Freedom Beach
Waiting for the rain to pass with a Mojito at the Happy Monk
But perhaps the best memory will be gorging on the sweetest, juiciest mangoes that we bought by the kilo every day. The mangosteens, a very strange fruit whose sweet nuggets you have to work to extract, were also a heavy favorite. Everyday, we vowed to take photos of the fruit, but we were always halfway through the eating frenzy when we remembered!
It’s a full day of travel to get back to Bangkok. Lomprayah has the monoply on the Ferry/VIP bus service and they are well organized, but keep in mind, anything can happen with the weather and ferries do get cancelled, so do not plan too tight especially if you are catching a flight out of Bangkok.
We end this trip in Bangkok, with a visit to the sprawling Chatuchak Weekend Market.
Overlooking Chatuchak Market
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Endless alleys
Mountains of sneakers
Massages
More massages
And a snake in the bathroom!
It’s always hard to leave Thailand, but rest assured, we’ll be back as soon as we can.
This featured blog entry was written by SpiceChronicles from the blog The Spice Chronicles.
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