Unless you are Korean or Chinese, chances are you’ve never heard of Jeju, but if you read our post on Korea you may recall that we visited this island off the southern tip of the mainland in December of 2017: 123 Kimcheeeeeeeeeee! https://spicechronicles.travellerspoint.com/78/
At the time, we were looking for Haenyeo (pronounced hen yo), Jeju’s lady divers famous for their exceptional free diving skills. But our timing was off. Although the island enjoys a more temperate climate, winter months can be quite cold exacerbated by strong winds. And while many Haenyeo dive year-round, the activity slows, often affected by inclement weather. We calculated that the effort we’d have to put in to find divers and the weather conditions we’d have to endure ourselves would probably not yield the desired results.
Porous basalt rock of Jeju Island
Fast forward to September 2018. A pleasant breeze greets us as we step off the plane in Jeju City. If booked in advance, the 1-hour flight from Seoul is cheap, making Jeju a popular weekend destination. 
View of Lotte Tower, Seoul’s tallest, piercing through fog and haze
It is entirely possible to rely on the color-coded public buses that loop around the island in both directions, but the freedom of a rental car cannot be overstated. With so much Korean signage, adjusting to driving here is a bit challenging. Luckily, the English translation is usually indicated and big arrows on the asphalt help keep you in the correct lane. GPS girl speaks our language endlessly calling attention to the achingly slow speed limit, and there are plenty of cameras and bright signs to remind you that you are under surveillance. Speeding is not recommended though bus drivers appear to be exempt from all traffic laws.
Rental car, Jeju island
We get the same room at Choi Hostel (30 euros) in the southern city of Seogwipo. But this time there is no breakfast available which is unfortunate because the only non-Asian options are Korean bakeries with names like Paris Baguette and Tous Les Jours offering pasty sweets, though most days we’re able to snag a fresh baguette and cream cheese. The trash bin is emptied and we get 4 new (mini) towels every day, but they don’t make the bed, or clean anything. There is never anyone at reception. Just a phone number to call. We could possibly be the only guests. 
Choi Hostel, Seogwipo
Monster beef rib soup
Takeout craft beer shop, Seogwipo
In order to facilitate approaching the notoriously standoffish Haenyeo, we interview a couple of fixers and settle on Kyle, a young Jeju native recommended by an acquaintance in Seoul. At 22, he speaks Korean, Chinese, Japanese, English and even a little French! Most importantly, he also speaks Jeju which is recognized as a distinct language.
The Haenyeo were inscribed on the UNESCO list of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2016. Numbers have dwindled since their peak in the 1970s, but there are still about 4000 ladies who make a living holding their breath for up to two minutes as they collect delicacies from the sea. Divers are affiliated with fisheries and adhere to strict rules regarding who can dive, when, where, what they can harvest and allotted quantities. Official dives occur twice a month during low tides determined by the lunar calendar, but small ladies in black rubber suits are a common site around the island. When they are not diving, many Haenyeo work on farms.
Located on the west coast of Jeju, the Haenyeo Museum is holding a festival for two days to honor these elite divers and showcase their traditions. Groups from every village are gathered and there are many events giving visitors the opportunity to try some of the techniques the women use for collecting seafood. 
A group of Haenyeo at the Museum Festival
Ceremony tent, Haenyeo Museum Festival
Offerings and prayers for safe and bountiful diving
At a small house near the water, divers get ready for a demonstration. Our idea is to shoot them with their wetsuits, accessories and equipment before and after but this is no easy feat as they are superstitious, grumpy, and somewhat victims of their success. With Kyle’s help, we manage to convince some to prepare in front of the black background we’ve draped on the side of the house. Fringe weather from a typhoon off the coast of Japan brings soaking rain and gusty winds but makes for some great shots. 
The women put a branch of mugwort (aka wormwood) in the mask. Like saliva or baby shampoo, rubbing the plant on the glass defogs the mask and its odor helps the diver to relax.
On the second day of the festival, in an attempt to butter them up a bit, we bring the ladies a case of fresh grapes and a rack of bananas which they thank us for profusely before immediately reverting to their stubborn ways! Despite working quickly and asking them to pose for literally one minute they are reluctant, though some do acquiesce.
A handful of conches
Concrete information about when and where divers will be going out is difficult to find, so we spend entire days driving along the coast stopping to inquire at every Haenyeo house we find. Some are closed, opening only around dive days. In others, we meet a fair amount of resistance. The women do not want to be photographed; it’s bad luck, we have to talk to the chief, come back another day, pfffft!
Haenyeo mending their nets
Kyle (r) and his (helpful) friend Ji-An in front of a Haenyeo house in Pyoengdae village
Most villages have a tribute to the mermaids as they are also referred to.
Heanyeo statue near Gimnyeong village
Fisherman tending a net near Gimnyeong village
Woljeong village
Sehwa village
The port in Sehwa
As we inch along the coast scouting locations, we stop to visit Jeju’s famous landmarks.
Hamdoek, Jeju’s star beach
A statue in the water near Hamdoek village
Handam does not have sand but rather a lovely walkway along the rocks.
Views of Handam coastal trail
At Gwakji beach, there is a natural swimming pool created by water that filters through the volcanic basalt rock beneath the blinding white sand.
Haenyeo statues at Gwakji beach
Colorful mural along the sea wall near Hallim port
The seascape at Sinchang is dominated by its famous wind turbines and a gigantic stainless steel statue of a Saw-edged perch protruding from the water.
Views of Sinchang wind farm
The Haenyeo house in Sinchang is no longer in use after two Haenyeo lost their lives in the particularly turbulent waters here last year.
Statue of a Haenyeo with Sinchang wind far in the background
September 24th is Chuseok, the Moon Festival; Korean Thanksgiving Day. The only place open is Starbucks. While the company’s massive expansion in Asia may be controversial, there is no escaping the revolution it has sparked in tea-drinking nations and the explosion of local and foreign chains vying for market share. In major cities worldwide, Starbucks Reserve, the haute couture iteration of the brand, is pushing the boundaries of selection, roasting technologies and creative blending. At long bars, lined with glass beakers, highly trained mixologists and baristas brew, filter and craft coffee. But I digress.
Sanseong Ilchulbang, a dormant volcano, is one of Jeju’s biggest tourist attractions.
Men fishing with dormant Seongsan Ilchulbong in the background
Twice a day, on the beach at the base of Sunrise Peak, there is a Haenyeo demonstration. Divers from surrounding villages take turns participating.
At the base of Seongsan Ilchulbong volcano
The Haenyeo here are a little less camera-shy and more amenable as they are guaranteed to sell their catch immediately. At the small restaurant on the beach, women prepare platters of fresh seafood.
Opening conch shells
Freshly caught and prepared octopus
With a bit of persistence, we eventually meet the chief at one of the Haenyeo houses in Sanseong village who informs us of the next official outing and gives us permission to take photos.
We press for precise information regarding time and location as there are two spots where the women enter the water, then map out a plan taking into consideration all the variables in order to be as prepared as possible.
Kyle has just texted he’ll be late as we pull up to the first Haenyeo house a week later. The doors are locked but there are four sets of wet diving gear hanging outside! We rush over to the other house to find several Haenyeo who have already returned. Panic sets in as we process the scene. Is diving over? Have we been duped? Without our translator we cannot be sure. When he arrives we are relieved to hear that the divers who have come back are level 1 and 2 divers. The older, more experienced level 3 divers, who are permitted to go further offshore, have not yet come back. We race back to the first house, set-up and wait.
Eventually, one by one, divers come out of the water with full nets; sea urchins, conches, oysters, octopi,...
Sorting through the catch
The prize shellfish is abalone, a delicacy that can bring in $50 or more a piece and is the star ingredient of many of Jeju’s famous dishes including rice porridge. It is also served sizzling in a stone pot, grilled or simply raw.
Feeling somewhat obligated, we purchase some seafood and sit down at a makeshift table while the ladies prepare it for us.
Preparing seafood
Freshly caught, raw and extremely rubbery sea cucumber; a delicacy for some
Kyle dining at an impromptu Haenyeo house restaurant
We drive back to Jeju City for the night, before the flight back to Seoul.
Elin Hotel (36 euros), Jeju City
Jeju City street at night
Most of the Hanyeo we have photographed are in their 70s, some in their 80s. Very few are under 50. While efforts by the government and local communities to preserve and promote this living legacy have seen some renewed interest from young people disillusioned with urban life on the mainland, few today are choosing to seriously pursue this difficult, hazardous profession. No doubt the tourism authority and the Haenyeo Museum will continue to promote this exceptional tradition, but it’s clear that we are looking at the last generations of Jeju’s elite lady divers.
This featured blog entry was written by SpiceChronicles from the blog The Spice Chronicles.
Read comments or Subscribe
By 