Jordan

Introduction

'Little' Petra at sunset

© Mikey B

The Middle East doesn't exactly come across as the most stable area on earth these days, but Jordan has managed to remain a reasonably safe nation. Moreover, Jordan's progressive leadership is playing an important role in encouraging peaceful Middle Eastern relations, as it moves internally towards greater female equality, freedom of press and democratic governance.

But tourists, they don't really come to a nation because of its great leadership do they? It's a good thing, then, that Jordan packs a variety of fantastic attractions into its borders. Best known is Petra, an ancient Arab city which was rediscovered in the 19th century, given airtime in "Indiana Jones & The Last Crusade" and is now the most impressive ruins site in all of the Middle East, with visitor numbers proving it. In Jordan's far southwest corner is Aqaba, which lies along the Gulf of Aqaba and provides what is said to be some of the best diving in the world.

Brief History

The Roman Amphitheater

© Vic_IV

The most prominent early roots of Jordan, as an independent state, can be traced to the Kingdom of Petra, which was founded by the Nabataeans an ancient Semitic people from Arabia who developed the North Arabic Script that evolved into the Modern Arabic script. As a result of the control of regional trade routes between Syria and the Arabian Peninsula, Petra enjoyed independence, prosperity and wealth for hundreds of years until it was absorbed by the Persian Empire and later the Roman Empire which was still expanding in 100 AD. During the Greco-Roman period of influence, a number of semi-independent city-states also developed in Jordan under the umbrella of the Decapolis including: Gerasa (Jerash), Philadelphia (Amman), Raphana (Abila), Dion (Capitolias), Gadara (Umm Qays), and Pella (Irbid).
Later, Jordan became part of the Islamic Empire across its different Caliphates stages including Rashidun Empire, Umayyad Empire and Abbasid Empire. After the decline of the Abbasid, Jordan was ruled by several conflicting powers including the Mongols, the Crusaders, the Ayyubids and the Mamluks until it became part of the Ottoman Empire in 1516.
The country was under British supervision until after World War II. During the 1948 Arab-Israeli war, Jordan occupied the area of Cisjordan now called the West Bank, which it continued to control in accordance with the 1949 Armistice Agreements and a political union formed in December 1948. A political union was legally established by the series of proclamations, decrees, and parliamentary acts in December 1948. Abdullah thereupon took the title King of Jordan, and he officially changed the country's name to the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan in April 1949.
Jordan and Iraq united in 1958 to form the Arab Federation of Iraq and Jordan under the Hashemite crowns in Amman and Baghdad. A coup later that year would end the union with the execution of the Hashemite crown in Baghdad. The United Arab Republic consisting of Egypt, Syria, and Yemen quickly moved to antagonize Jordan's young King Hussein with Soviet support. King Hussein asked for British and American assistance. The RAF and the USAF was sent to patrol Jordanian airspace and British troops were deployed in Amman. The UAR backed off but then turned to Lebanon. The Americans would later be deployed in Beirut to support Lebanon's pro-Western government.
In 1965, there was an exchange of land between Saudi Arabia and Jordan. Jordan gave up a large area of inland desert in return for a small piece of sea-shore near Aqaba.
Jordan signed a military pact with Egypt in May 1967, and following an Israeli air attack on Egypt in June 1967, Egypt, Jordan, Syria and Iraq continued the Six Day War against Israel. During the war, Israel captured the West Bank and East Jerusalem. In 1988, Jordan renounced all claims to the territory now occupied by Israel but its 1994 treaty with Israel allowed for a continuing Jordanian role in Muslim and Christian holy places in Jerusalem.
King Abdullah II succeeded his father King Hussein in 1999.
Jordan's rapid reinstitution of political and civil liberty continued throughout the 1990s and the 2000s. Economic liberalization policies were especially introduced by King Abdullah II creating one of the freest economies in the Middle East. Political liberalization is occurring but at a slower pace than 1989 and the early 1990s. Liberal policies continue to be predominate in King Abdullah II's reign with economic reforms being the dominate.
On 9 November 2005 Jordan experienced three simultaneous terrorist bombings at hotels in Amman. At least 57 people died and 115 were wounded. "Al-Qaeda in Iraq", a group led by terrorist Abu Musab al-Zarqawi, Abu Musab al-Zarqawi, claimed responsibility.

Geography

Jordan shares international borders with Israel, Syria, Iraq and Saudi Arabia. Jordan lies between 29° and 34° N latitude, and 35° and 40° E longitude (a small area lies west of 35°). It's a mostly arid country with fantastic desert sceneries, wadis (dry river beds), rocks, sand and of course there is also the lowest point on earth in the west of the country: the Dead Sea at 420 metres below sea level. The northwestern corner of the country is the highest area in the country, gradually descending in the direction of the Red Sea and Iraq/Saudi Arabia. The Great Rift Valley of the Jordan River separates Jordan, the west bank and Israel. The highest point in the country is Jabal Umm al Dami at 1,854 metres above sea level. Jordan is part of a region considered to be "the cradle of civilization", the Levant region of the Fertile Crescent.

Regions

Jordan is divided into 12 governorates. From north to south these are:

• Irbid
• Ajloun
• Jarash
• Mafraq
• Balqa
• Zarqa
• Amman
• Madaba
• Karak
• Tafilah
• Ma'an
• Aqaba

Cities

• Amman - capital and largest city
• Irbid - second largest metropolitan area in the north
• Jerash features ancient Roman ruins, about an hour's drive from Amman.
• Aqaba is a Red Sea resort town offering some excellent snorkeling and diving.
• Karak is a fortified town with a castle dating back to the 12th century.
• Madaba is known as the “City of Mosaics". It is home to a 6th century Mosaic Map of Jerusalem and the Holy Land.
• Ma'an

Sights and Activities

Petra

The Monastery

© krissy

Petra is Jordan's most famous tourist attraction. A city hewn by the Nabateans into the rose-coloured rock hidden behind the surrounding mountains the site became famous after reports by the Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt in 1812. It probably is one of the most Famous Ruins in the world and therefore is on the Unesco World Heritage List. For more detailed information about visiting this fantastic highlight of Jordan, read the Petra article. The village of Wadi Musa, about 2 kilometres uphill from the main site, is the base for visiting Petra.

Wadi Rum

Wadi Rum is a valley in the Jordanian desert known for its sand dunes. Parts of the Lawrence of Arabia movie were recorded here. The area is very isolated but can easily be visited as it is not to far from the main Amman to Aqaba road. The only permanent inhabitants are several thousand Bedouin nomads who sometimes function as guides in the area.

Dead Sea

The Dead Sea is located in the west of the country and shares part of it with its neighbouring country Israel. This is the lowest point in the world at almost 400 metres below sea level and the water is the most salty in the world as well. In summer it can get very hot here and it is best avoided during this time. The Dead Sea is easily visited in a day or so but some more time deserves to be spent here, as nearby attractions like Madaba (known for its Madaba Mosaic Map, a 6th century mosaic depiction of Jerusalem and parts of the Holy Land on the floor of St. George's church), Bethany-beyond-the-Jordan (Jesus' baptism site) and Mount Nebo are highlights of the country as well. Madaba, a relaxed small town about a 45-minute drive from Amman, can be a good base for exploring the sites around the Dead Sea. Alternatively, backpacker hotels in Amman organise day trips, and you can also rent a car.

Diving and snorkeling

The Red Sea borders a small portion of southern Jordan at and near the city of Aqaba and the waters are known amongst divers all over the world for its tremendous variety of marine life. Aqaba itself has some fine hotels to stay at, both upmarket as more modest places, several of which offer snorkeling and diving just offshore.

Ancient Ruins

Roman Ruins

© Ilyas

Jordan has several magnificent ancient ruins other then Petra, especially in the northwest of the country including the ones at Jerash (famous for its roman ruins) and at Umm Qais in the far northwest with great views offered towards Lake Tiberias in Israel and the Golan Heights in Syria. Another one is at Kerak, located on the King's Highway with its magnificently-situated Crusader castle. Amman itself has some fine roman ruins as well, including the ones at citadell hill. Finally, Ajlun in the north of Jordan is famous for its impressive ruins of the 12th century Ajlun castle.

Other Sights and Activities

• Azraq Wetland Reserve
• Shawmari Reserve
• Dana Nature Reserve
• Wadi Mujib Nature Reserve

Events and Festivals

Muharram

Muharram is a cause for great celebration across many towns in Jordan as it marks of the beginning of the Islamic New Year in January. This happens on a different day each year according to the cycles of the moon.

Aqaba Traditional Arts Festival

The northern town of Aqaba hosts a relatively large festival in February which celebrates the unique culture of the Bedouin people. Taking the form mainly of a crafts fair, the Bedouins and other minority groups bring their handicrafts to the seaside town for sale, showcasing their unique talents and keeping these traditions alive.

Azraq Festival

This festival, which also takes place in February, is native to the city of Azraq and its sole purpose is to present the town’s wonderful art, culture and crafts. A complete celebration with music, dancing and food in the town’s streets, it is one of the smaller festivals in Jordan, but by no means insignificant.

Amman International Theatre Festival

Hosted by an independent theatre company in March every year, the Amman International Theatre Festival brings together some of the rawest and freshest talent from around Jordan. Taking on somewhat of a competitive format, each performer has the chance to showcase their skills in English or Arabic.

Jerash Festival

Held every in July in the historical city of Jerash, this festival is one of the largest cultural celebrations in Jordan. Thousands descend to participate in special art and performances. Visitors will find music, dance, literature, food, handicrafts and general merriment among the festival goers. There are also artist’s workshops and seminars which are open for everyone to attend.

Jordan Rally

Taking place in October, the Jordan Rally is a motorcar race which brings together those with the need for speed from every corner of the globe. For a few thrilling days, the festival turns Jordan’s golden dunes into a race track and a large international crowd can be seen getting their adrenaline fill.

Weather

Jordan has a hot, dry and sunny climate, although winters in the north can be quite cold sometimes. The east and south has the warmest weather, with average temperatures during the summermonths of May to September over 35 °C, sometimes hitting 45 °C or more! Nights are still warm. The Dead Sea area can be extremely hot and as it is the lowest point in the world, temperatures can rise to over 50 degrees Celcius in the shade. Winters here are pleasantly warm, around 20 °C or a little more during the day, nights can be relatively chilly.
More inland, winter nights can be downright cold, with temperatures below zero being a real possibility. The northwest is located at higher altitude and its proximity to the Mediterranean make this the wettest and most fertile part of Jordan. Here the annual rainfall can be as much as 800 mm in the highest parts. Temperatures are more pleasant but hot days in summer are possible, averaging around 32 °C. Most of the rain falls in winter, from November to March, while summers are generally quite dry and sunny. Frost and snow in winter is possible in places like Amman.

Getting There

Queen Alia International Airport

© Vic_IV

By Plane

Royal Jordanian Airlines is the national airline with many destinations served from Queen Alia International Airport (AMM), 32 kilometres south of Amman. Destinations are as far away as New York, but most flights are to major cities in the Middle East and Europe. Asian destinations include Bangkok and Hong Kong. Dozens of other airlines (mostly regional) fly to the airport as well. Buses and taxis serve the airport all day, with buses operating every half hour to Amman. A new rail line is being constructed that will link Queen Alia International Airport with central and downtown Amman. Domestic flights are an option you don't really need with travelling times overland just a matter of several hours, but travelling between Amman and Aqaba could be done with Royal Jordanian Airlines.

Amman Civil Airport (ADJ) in the east of Amman has flights to Dalaman (Turkey), Cairo, Baghdad, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Baku, Sharjah and even Stockholm, though some are seasonal.

There are also international flights to/from Aqaba Airport in the south of the country, mainly including charter flights from European countries.

By Train

A twice weekly train travel between the capital of Syria, Damascus, and Amman. The train leaves both places on Mondays and Thursdays at 8:00am in the morning and take 9 hours to complete the schedule. Although slower than buses and shared taxis, this train ride comes as a welcome alternative for train fanatics.

By Car

From Syria there are plenty of shared taxis leaving Damascus for Amman, taking about 4 hours including time to clear immigrations. It costs around US$15 for a seat.
With your own car you can also cross the border without major hassles but when travelling to Syria be sure to have a visa before entering. You can also cross into Israel to not at the King Hussein Bridge.

By Bus

Although buses and minibuses travel to Saudi Arabia and Iraq it is either almost impossible (SA) or not advisable (Iraq) to cross these borders. Instead, most travellers take overland routes to and from Israel and the Palestinian Territories or Syria. Buses travel between Amman and Tel Aviv, Nazareth and Haifa. Buses to Syria go to Damascus (daily) and Aleppo (weekly). There are also numerous minibuses that ply the route between the two capitals.
Minibuses between Amman and Damascus sometimes also stop in Jerash (Jordan) and Bosra (Syria).

By Boat

There are ferries between Aqaba, Jordan and Nuweiba on the Sinai peninsula in Egypt. There is a daily fast ferry (US$90 for First class and US$70 for economy seat) leaving at 11:00am from Jordan and 3:00pm from Egypt. It takes 1 to 2 hours travelling depending on sea conditions, but much longer in reality as a result of the time needed for everyone to clear customs and immigrations - up to 7 hours of mostly waiting. The slow ferry leaves daily as well but costs almost the same and is much less comfortable and much slower indeed. These ferries are operated by AB Maritime, do check their website for more details. Citizens of most European countries, North America and Australia and New Zealand can get a visa for free when entering Aqaba.

Getting Around

By Plane

The country is small, so you don't really need a domestic flight although travelling between Amman and Aqaba could be an option with Royal Jordanian Airlines.

By Train

Although the train from Syria travels through Jordan to Amman, there are no other convenient points to break your journey.

By Car

Jordanian roads and roadsigns are of good quality and apart from the chaotic roads in and near Amman, it is also very easy to drive around this country. Just be careful of other local drivers. You can hire cars at the main airports, some resorts and bigger cities. Traffic drives on the right. It is best to bring an international driving permit, which is valid in all circumstances. Hiring a car with a driver is also popular and saves you the hassle on the road.

By Bus

There are many bus companies offering direct services to most major cities and towns, like Amman, Aqaba, Petra, Jerash and Irbid. Companies include Alphadt, JETT and Rum Tourist Transport. There are also minibuses.

Smaller service taxis ply the same routes and often are more expensive but also faster and more convenient.

By Boat

Other than taking a leisurely boat tour on the Red Sea (and occasionally the Dead Sea), there are no regular passenger services within Jordan.

Red Tape

Visa

For the latest, up-to-date and complete information, please check out the Jordan Tourism Board.

Nationals from Arab countries can enter Jordan without a visa and for free. Visitors from most other countries (even Israeli citizens and Israeli passport holders) can easily obtain a visa on arrival at the border point directly, except for the King Hussein ("Allenby") Bridge and with limitations at the Eilat/Aqaba crossing (see ASEZA below). Some nationalities may require a visa before arrival (many African countries, Afghanistan, Albania, Bangladesh, Belize, Cambodia, Colombia, Cuba, Iran, Iraq, Laos, Moldova, Mongolia, Myanmar, Nepal, Pakistan, Papua New Guinea, Philippines, Sri Lanka, Vietnam, and Yemen).

The visa prices are:

• 40 JD for one month & single entry (easily extended – up to twice – at the nearest police station)
• 60 JD for three months & double entries
• 120 JD for six months & multiple entries (not extendible)

For the single entry visa the fee of 40 JD is waived if you have purchased a Jordan Pass before arrival, see details below.

On-arrival visas at the Eilat/Aqaba border crossing are only issued to organized tour groups and Jordan Pass holders. Nevertheless, it might be sufficient to hand over your planned itinerary to get the visa-on-arrival – people have gotten in this way. All others must obtain a visa prior crossing.

Furthermore, there are extra fees involved if you stay only a couple of days in Jordan (1-3 days). The regular single entry visa through Jordan Pass, for example, is not waived – see #Jordan Pass for details. Also one-day visitors to Jordan pay 90 JD instead of 50-60 JD for the entrance to Petra. There might also exist restrictions on the free ASEZA visa (see below). However, the surrounding details and manifestations of these extra fees are blurry and apparently subject to constant change.

There is a departure fee of 10 JD when exiting Jordan by land or sea. At the Aqaba/Eilat border crossing some people got around paying the fee by ignoring the relevant fee counter.

ASEZA visa (Aqaba Economic Zone only)

You can receive a free, one-month ASEZA visa if you arrive at Aqaba by land (from Eilat in Israel or Saudi Arabia), by sea (ferry from Egypt at Nuweiba), or by air (at Aqaba International Airport). If you receive an ASEZA visa, you will have to exit the country through the same entry point. The ASEZA visa allows free travel throughout Jordan. There is no tax for leaving the Aqaba Economic Zone and crossing into the rest of the country. There are road checkpoints when leaving ASEZA, but these are no concern for foreigners. Usually, the control is either waived for tourists or minimally done (just show your passport; if driving, show also your driving license, car registration and open the trunk). If you want to enter through Aqaba and do not want to get the ASEZA visa, you must ask the customs officer to put the normal visa in your passport and pay the normal visa fee.

The free ASEZA visa can also be obtained at almost all other crossings (except King Hussein "Allenby" Bridge), by stating that you are going to Aqaba. There will be no 40 JD charge for the entry visa, but you are obliged to arrive in Aqaba in maximum 48 hours and get a stamp from a police station in Aqaba or from the ASEZA headquarters. If the Aqaba late-arrival stamp is not in your passport, at departure you will pay the 40 JD charge for the entry visa plus a fine of 1.50 JD/day, for each day non-registered (the day you entered Jordan is counted as day 1, even if you entered at 23:59 hours).

Money

See also Money Matters

The national currency is the Jordanian dinar (JD), divided into 1,000 fils and 100 piastres (or qirsh). Coins come in denominations of ¼, ½, 1, 5 and 10 piastres and banknotes in 1, 5, 10, 20, and 50 dinar denominations. The currency rate is fixed at 0.71 JD per US$ (or 1.41 dollars per dinar).

Work

Work opportunities for the casual foreign visitor are somewhat limited in Jordan. The majority of foreigners working in Jordan are on contract work with foreign multinationals and development organisations (Amman is the 'gateway to Iraq' and a key base for the continuing efforts to rebuild its neighbour).

There is the possibility of picking up casual English teaching work if you hunt around hard for opportunities.

Fluent Arabic speakers might have more success, though the process of obtaining a work permit is not particularly straightforward. Engage a knowledgeable local to assist you.

Study

For long stays, it is possible to take Arabic courses at the University of Jordan as well as other private educational centres in Amman. The British Council in Amman occasionally runs courses in Arabic for foreigners.
An alternative is Zarqa Private University. It is a 35 minute drive due east of Amman and can save you a fortune, due to the fact that the city Zarqa costs 1/3 less to stay in an apartment than Amman.

Language

The national language of Jordan is Arabic. Most Jordanians speak English, especially in urban area such as Amman and in and around tourist centres like Aqaba, Petra, Jerash and Wadi Rum.

Eat

Jordanian cuisine is quite similar to fare served elsewhere in the region. The daily staple being khobez, a large, flat bread sold in bakeries across the country for a few hundred fils. Delicious when freshly baked.

Our hotel restaurant

© Vic_IV

For breakfast, the traditional breakfast is usually fried eggs, labaneh, cheese, zaatar and olive oil along with bread and a cup of tea. Falafel and hummus are eaten on the weekends by some and more often by others. There's no convention for when you should or should not eat any type of food. It's up to you. This is the most popular breakfast. Manousheh and pastries come in as the second most popular breakfast item. All of the hotels offer American breakfast.

The national dish of Jordan is the mansaf, prepared with jameed, a sun-dried yogurt. Grumpygourmet.com describes the mansaf as "an enormous platter layered with crêpe-like traditional "shraak" bread, mounds of glistening rice and chunks of lamb that have been cooked in a unique sauce made from reconstituted jameed and spices, sprinkled with golden pine nuts." In actuality more people use fried almonds instead of pine nuts because of the cheaper price tag. While mansaf is the national dish, most people in urban areas eat it on special occasions and not every day. Other popular dishes include Maklouba, stuffed vegetables, freekeh.

The most popular place to eat cheap Mansaf is the Jerusalem restaurant in downtown Amman.

Levantine-style mezza are served in "Lebanese-style" -which is typical to Jordaian style- restaurants around the country, and you can easily find international fast food chains including McDonalds, Pizza Hut and Burger King.

Sleep

Amman Rotana Hotel

© Vic_IV

Amman has an abundance of 5 and 4 star hotels. In addition there is good number of 3 star hotels and there are plenty of 2 star and 1 star hotels in downtown Amman which are very cheap, and there are plenty of tourists, especially those that are passing by stay in these hotels. Be advised that there are two scales of rating the hotels in Jordan. There are the standard, Western-style 5-star hotels such as the Sheraton, Crowne Plaza, etc., and then there are the local 5-star establishments. The local establishments that are considered '5-star' in Jordan would be more like 3-star hotels in the West. That being said, a traveller will pay top dollar for a Western brand-name 5-star hotel in Amman or Petra and less for the local 5-star hotel.

Furthermore, for longer stays it is possible to get furnished apartments from around JOD200-600 a month.

Drink

Black thea with mint is one of the drinks in Jordan which are worth a try.

Health

See also Travel Health

I liked this sign

© Vic_IV

It's a good thing to get your vaccinations in order before travelling to Jordan. The general vaccination against Diphtheria, Tetanus and Polio (DTP) is recommended. Also a hepatitis A vaccination is recommended and vaccination against hepatitis B, typhoid and rabies are also sometimes recommended for stays longer than 3 months.

Finally, other possible health issues include diarrhea and other general travellers' diseases like motion sickness. Watch what you eat and drink and in case you get it, drink plenty of fluids (to prevent dehydration) and bring ORS.

Safety

See also Travel Safety

Jordan is very safe. There is virtually no unsafe part of Jordan except at the Iraqi border. Although the rural parts of Jordan have limited infrastructures, the fellahin (or village people) will be happy to assist you.

Jordan is one of the most liberal nations in the region. Women may wear regular clothing without harassment in any part of Jordan. Western fashions are popular among young Jordanian women. However, modest clothing should be worn in religious and old historical sites. Keep in mind Jordan is a Muslim nation and western norms may not be accepted even by Jordan's western educated elite, such as public displays of affection. Jordan is not a place where homosexuality is taken as lightly as in the West, although is not illegal as is the case in most other Arab nations. Adultery, including consensual sex between unmarried couples, is illegal and can be punished by a maximum of a 3 year jail term.

Keep Connected

Internet

Jordan is relatively well connected to the internet compared to many other countries in the Middle East. Internet cafes are all around Jordan and range from 1- 2 JD for half an hour. Wifi is getting more and more popular in Jordan, but is not very common everywhere. In larger places, you find free wifi and some coffee places and restaurants. Hotels tend to charge for wifi, but not always, so check beforehand.

Phone

See also International Telephone Calls

Jordan's international country code is 962. The emergency numbers include 112 and 911, you can use them both.

Most of Jordan has mobile coverage. There are three mobile operators: Zain - the first and largest mobile provider, Orange and Umniah. You can buy SIM cards at any of these providers and if you are planning to make international calls, use Umniah as they are the cheapeast. Otherwise Zain is the better choice of mostly domestic calls. Using your own SIM in Jordan can be expensive, especially for internet.

Card-based temporary numbers can be purchased at the airport or any mobile shop for JOD5. These numbers can be subsequently recharged with a prepaid card starting at only JOD1. Temporary "throw away" phones can be bought at many mobile phone shops across the country for around JOD20-30, but a Jordanian must buy the phone before possession can be transferred to you.

Post

Jordan Post runs the postal services in the country. It has fairly reliable and cheap services and international post usually takes several days up to a week or more for countries further away. Opening hours of post offices are mostly between 7:00am and 5:00pm Saturday to Thursday and 7:00am to 1:00pm on Friday, although this depends whether it's a main city or smaller villages. In summer, there might be slighty longer opening hours. For larger packages, it might work out cheaper and certainly faster to use international courier services, including DHL, FedEx, TNT or UPS for example.

External Links

• Official Govermental Website
• Official Tourism Website