Sao Tome and Principe

Photo © Luis M

Travel Guide Africa Sao Tome and Principe

Introduction

Roça Bombaim

Located a few hundred kilometres west of Equatorial Guinea and Gabon, the islands of São Tomé and Príncipe have been blessed with a relatively peaceful independence, thus avoiding the stigma of tension and a bloodstained past worn by most countries of mainland Africa. It adds infinitely to the relaxed, calm appeal of the islands - who wants to be thinking of war and bloody coups while trying to take it easy by the warm Atlantic waters?

The volcanic origin of the islands grants them a magnificent look and makes them perfect for hiking. The Portuguese also left a handful of treats for tourists when they hurriedly departed the islands' shores in the 70s: attractive (though somewhat rundown) colonial architecture graces the streets of São Tomé, adding that little bit of Portuguese style to the islands' Afro-Latin vibe.

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Brief History

The islands of São Tomé and Príncipe were uninhabited before the arrival of the Portuguese sometime around 1470. The islands were discovered by João de Santarém and Pedro Escobar. The dates of discovery are sometimes given as December 21 (St Thomas's Day), 1471 for São Tomé, and January 17 (St Anthony's Day), 1472 for Principe, though other sources give different nearby years. The first successful settlement of São Tomé was established in 1493 by Álvaro Caminha, who received the land as a grant from the crown. Príncipe was settled in 1500 under a similar arrangement.

The cultivation of sugar was a labour-intensive process and the Portuguese began to import large numbers of slaves from the mainland. By the mid-1500s the Portuguese settlers had turned the islands into Africa's foremost exporter of sugar. São Tomé and Príncipe were taken over and administered by the Portuguese crown in 1522 and 1573, respectively. In the early 19th century, two new cash crops, coffee and cocoa, were introduced. The rich volcanic soils proved well suited to the new cash crop industry, and soon extensive plantations (roças), owned by Portuguese companies or absentee landlords, occupied almost all of the good farmland. By 1908, São Tomé had become the world's largest producer of cocoa, which remains the country's most important crop.

By the late 1950s, when other emerging nations across the African Continent were demanding independence, a small group of São Toméans had formed the Movement for the Liberation of São Tomé and Príncipe (MLSTP). After a period of transitional government, São Tomé and Príncipe achieved independence on July 12, 1975, choosing as the first president the MLSTP Secretary General Manuel Pinto da Costa.

In 1990, São Tomé became one of the first African countries to embrace democratic reform, and changes to the constitution - the legalization of opposition political parties - led to elections in 1991 that were nonviolent, free, and transparent. Miguel Trovoada, a former prime minister who had been in exile since 1986, returned as an independent candidate and was elected president. Trovoada was re-elected in São Tomé's second multi-party presidential election in 1996. The army seized power for one week in July 2003, complaining of corruption and that forthcoming oil revenues would not be divided fairly. An accord was negotiated under which President de Menezes was returned to office.

The cohabitation period ended in March 2006, when a pro-presidential coalition won enough seats in National Assembly elections to form and head a new government. In the 30 July 2006 presidential election, Fradique de Menezes easily won a second five-year term in office, defeating two other candidates Patrice Trovoada (son of former President Miguel Trovoada) and independent Nilo Guimarães. Local elections, the first since 1992, took place on 27 August 2006 and were dominated by members of the ruling coalition.On February 12, 2009, there has been an attempted coup d'état to overthrow President Fradique de Menezes according to sources of the authorities.

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Geography

The islands of São Tomé and Príncipe, situated in the equatorial Atlantic and Gulf of Guinea about 300 and 250 kilometres, respectively, off the northwest coast of Gabon, constitute Africa's second smallest country. Both are part of the Cameroon volcanic mountain line, which also includes the islands of Annobón to the southwest, Bioko to the northeast (both part of Equatorial Guinea), and Mount Cameroon on the coast of Gulf of Guinea. São Tomé is 50 kilometres long and 30 kilometres wide and the more mountainous of the two islands. Its peaks reach 2,024 metres - Pico de São Tomé. Príncipe is about 30 kilometres long and 6 kilometres wide. Its peaks reach 948 metres - Pico de Príncipe. Swift streams radiating down the mountains through lush forest and cropland to the sea cross both islands. The equator lies immediately south of São Tomé Island, passing through an islet Ilhéu das Rolas. The Pico Cão Grande (Great Dog Peak) is a landmark volcanic plug peak, in southern São Tomé. It rises dramatically over 300 metres above the surrounding terrain and the summit is 663 metres above sea level.

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Regions

São Tomé and Príncipe is divided into 2 provinces, which corresponds to the two major islands.

São Tomé, or Ilha de São Tomé, is the larger island.
Príncipe, or Ilha do Príncipe

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Cities

São Tomé - capital of the nation and the Island of Sao Tomé.
Santo Antonio - capital of Principe.
Neves
Santa Cruz

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Sights and Activities

São Tomé and Príncipe were uninhabited prior to colonization by the Portuguese in the 1490s. Since then, much of the landscape has remained unchanged or, where former plantations once stood, reclaimed by the rainforests. The islands are covered by lush rainforests and with a small population and very few tourists, and remain for visitors a veritable tropical paradise.

Just offshore are coral reefs with a large diversity of sea life - including a few endemics as the waters between other islands and the mainland reach 2,000 meters! Diving and snorkeling are the ideal ways to explore the underwater side of this paradise, during which you can come face-to-face with dolphins, large green turtles, and a wide array of colorful fish. Experienced and daring divers can explore underwater caves.

Among the few human-made sights on the islands is Fort São Sebastião. Built in 1575, the fort was refurbished in 2006 and is now the São Tomé National Museum. The fort is absolutely beautiful at night. Essential for every visitor is a tour of one of the islands' colonial-era plantations—roças—which lie in many different states, from centuries-old buildings slowly being overgrown by rainforest to lovingly refurbished ones operating as bed-and-breakfasts. One of the more easily accessible, Monte Café, has a new coffee museum set and, since it is in the mountains, is cool and inviting. The Sao Tome market is, like many in the region, a bustling, colorful experience while photographers will love city's quaint colonial-style architecture.

Ilhéu das Rolas

Ilhéu das Rolas is a small island on the equator close to the southern tip of the island of São Tomé. It is a marvellous island and is a great place to go and enjoy the beaches, snorkelling and diving. There is even a fancy diving resort but you can also just come for the day and have a great time. Porto Alegre on Sao Tomé is the place to try and find transport to this fantastic place.

Obo National Park

Obo National Park is a protected nature park on both Sao Tomé and Príncipe, part of it being the remains of what used to be plantations. The park consists of tropical forests on higher land. There are many walking trails bringing you to waterfalls, lakes and animals like treefrogs and special snakes. For more details, check the Obo National Park website.

Cascadas de São Nicolau

The Cascadas de São Nicolau are best visited from the town of Trinidad. It is a relatively small waterfall but the lush green surroundings make up for that. In the area you can also visit a cacao plantation and if you still have enough energy you can climb the Pico São Tomé, the highgest mountain on the island at 2,024 metres above sea level.

Lagoa Azul

Lagoa Azul is located close to some secluded beaches near Praia das Conchas and Praia dos Tamarindos. It has absolutely fantastic opportunities to go out snorkelling. The beaches here are less impressive though. In the area are giant baobab trees which are home to numerous bird species as well.

Principe

When you have enough time left in the country after a visit to the main island Sao Tomé, you can go to Principe. It has a spectacular landscape of volcanic mountains covered in thick virgin forest. The island is surrounded by crystal clear turquoise water and palm fringed beaches. Snorkelling, dving and fishing are excellent and locals can provide boats to go out. Biking around the island is good way of seeing the interior. Eddington's Plaque, Sundy Plantation, Príncipe Island. In 1919, Arthur Stanley Eddington and his team visited Príncipe to test Einstein's Theory of Relativity. During a solar eclipse, they could see stars behind the sun, which helped to prove it true. There is now an informational plaque on the site.

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Events and Festivals

International Workers’ Day

International Workers’ Day, or Labor Day as it is locally known, takes place on May 1 every year. This public holiday is marked by events celebrating the historic International Labor Movement, the development of trade unions in the country (which fight to protect workers’ rights), and the contribution of every worker to the nation that São Tomé has become today.

Independence Day

On July 12, São Tomé e Príncipe celebrates the attainment of full sovereignty from the colonial rule of the Portuguese. This public holiday is filled with displays of tradition and culture in many different cities. Travellers can expect to see musical performances, dance shows, and theatrical interpretations of the centuries during which the region was a colony.

Argel Accord Day

Every year on November 26, São Tomé and Príncipe celebrates the national holiday of Argel Accord Day. Prior to the nation being granted independence, the Argel Accords - which promised to grant sovereignty - were signed in Portugal. These accords came about from the actions of Portuguese civil society against the then dictatorial government. Argel Accords Day then not only commemorates the signing of these historical documents, but the efforts of the Portuguese people who fought for the freedom of Portuguese colonies around the world.

Christmas Day

São Tomé and Príncipe has a large Christian population, accounting for about 80 percent of people in the country. Understandably then, Christian religious holidays like Christmas Day on December 25 are a big deal. Christmas marks the birth of the Christian messiah Jesus. The day is celebrated by going to mass and the enjoyment of feasts with friends and family. The day has taken on a cultural aspect as well as it is considered a non-working day and most people in the country, religious or not, partake in the festivities.

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Weather

Located along the equator, Sao Tome and Principe has a climate typical for this region. The islands have high temperatures, high humidity, heavy rainfall, and much cloud around the year. Annual rainfall is around 2,000 mm. June to September is the driest period of the year with only a few days with some showers. During most of the rest of the year, rainfall is high, with two rainy seasons: one from March to May, the other in October and November. December to February is fairly dry as well, but with some more showers compared to June-September. The northern parts of the islands are less wet compared to the southern areas, where influence of the southwesterly winds is greater. Temperatures are around 30 °C year round during the day, and around 20 °C at night with extremely little variation.

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Getting There

By Plane

To São Tomé there are flights with TAP Portugal to and from Lisbon and Accra. STP Airways has seasonal operations to/from Lisbon also. TAAG Angola Airlines from Luanda and Afrijetl is flying from Libreville

By Boat

There are no passenger services, but there is a cargo ship that leaves for São Tomé from Libreville (Gabon), though the journey is not recommended or safe, and won’t save you that much money either, so take a flight instead.

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Getting Around

By Plane

STP Airways has several flights a week between Sao Tome (TMS) and Principe (PCP).

By Car

Roads on Sao Tome are mostly paved, but some parts are potholed and some back roads really require a 4WD vehicle. Rental cars are available at the airport or in Sao Tome city, including a few hotels. You can also rent a car with a driver that doubles as a guide. Some guides only speak Portuguese though. Traffic drives on the right and you need a national driver's licence or international driving permit.

By Bus

There are minibuses and shared taxis on Sao Tome which cover the main roads between Sao Tome city and the main towns and villages to the south. On Principe there is only one red minibus that covers the 12 kilometres of road.

By Boat

Ferries ply the waters between Sao Tome and Principe several times a week.

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Red Tape

Nationals of the following countries may enter São Tomé and Príncipe without a visa for visits of up to 15 days: Angola, Brazil, Burundi, Cameroon, Canada, Cape Verde, Central African Republic, Chad, Republic of the Congo, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Equatorial Guinea, Gabon, Guinea-Bissau, Mozambique, Rwanda, East Timor, United States and all EU citizens. Chinese citizens (including Hong Kong and Macau) can get a visa on arrival. Holders of a valid Schengen or United States visa also do not require a visa. Nationals of other countries should obtain an eVisa before arrival.

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Money

Language

Eat

Fish is a staple of the São Toméan diet, often served with breadfruit and mashed, cooked bananas. The variety of fish is wide, including flying fish at certain times of year. Inland, many São Toméans get their protein from buzios, large land snails. Sea snails are also quite common along the coast. In spite of the abject poverty, São Toméans can always count on some sustenance from the wide array of tropical fruits. The hotels in the capital offer European-style fare at European prices.

Roça São João dos Angolares in the village of Angolares 42 km SE of São Tomé city on EN No. 2. Make reservations as far in advance as possible (+239 9906900), but it is worth it. Gourmet meals served as a multiple course prix fixe are worth the extra workout you will need. Also offers rooms from €60 (Dec 2017).

Sum Secreto - Standard grill fare, but they can handle large groups without a reservation. Service is generally very good, and the meat and fish are excellent. Nothing fancy, but the place is popular because it has that secret something.

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Sleep

A small handful of hotels exist in the capital. Near the town of Santana lies an idyllic bed and breakfast with stunning views. Opulent resorts have been built at the very northern and southern extremes of the country, on the small island of Ilheu das Rolas, and at Ilha Bom Bom off the coast of Principe. Bom Bom Island Resort is a true haven of luxury and calm, offering the ultimate in comfortable and secluded accommodation.

In the main city of Sao Tome several small pousadas (B&Bs) can be found. There are three main hotels in the city: Agosto Neto, Pestana and Miramar.
In Santo António, the main city of Príncipe, several small pousadas (B&Bs) can be found as well.

Bom Bom Island Resort - In addition to an ensuite bathroom, air-conditioning and other modern amenities, each bungalow has its own veranda with views across the green palm fronds and the bay. Bom Bom’s restaurant, bar and marina are on a tiny islet, which can be reached by crossing the 230-metre wooden walkway.
Mucumbli - An amazing lodge, situated a view minutes down the road from the city of Neves. It only has 5 bungalows so book well in advance! Owned my Titiano and Marie, an extremely nice and helpful Italian couple that arrived to the island in the 1980s and built this place little by little. Private and remote (in São Tomé terms that is), sitting on the deck watching the sunset side of the island or going to the beach or hitting the trails, this place is a must. There is also a donkey pen, that were practically saved by the owners (after the government received them as a gift from Angola and didn't know what to do with them). Includes breakfast.

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Drink

Beer is readily available everywhere, though São Toméans are not known as big drinkers. Local brands include Creolla and Rosema. Inland, palm wine is available very inexpensively from vendors along the road. Wine, especially Portuguese vinho verde, is popular with fish dishes.

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