Somaliland

Introduction

Somaliland is a self-declared independent state that is internationally recognized as an autonomous region of Somalia. The government of Somaliland regards itself as the successor state to the British Somaliland protectorate, which became independent on 26 June 1960 as the State of Somaliland, before uniting with the Trust Territory of Somalia (the former Italian Somaliland) on 1 July 1960 to form the Somali Republic.

Although the government is trying to establish a modicum of safety here, visiting is still not advised by the governments of Canada, New Zealand, the UK and the US - although the area is viewed as safer than most of its neighbouring East African countries. The local government is very anxious to show its stability and, as a result, foreigners are generally treated with respect and interest. However, high unemployment and increasing discontent at being an unrecognized island of stability in a grim region does cause some resentment towards outsiders, particularly NGO workers.

For visitors exercising caution and respect, Somaliland is a fascinating and safe place to visit.

Warning: Somaliland is not safe for travel. The US State Department advises against all travel to Somaliland, due to the risk of violent crime such as kidnapping and murder. The situation remains volatile; you should exercise extreme caution and stay away from any demonstrations, as they may become violent. The British Foreign and Commonwealth Office also advise against all travel to eastern Somaliland, against all but essential travel to western Somaliland, including the cities of Hargeisa and Berbera corridor. The government forces RRU were defeated in a war near Gacan Libah Mountain 11 August.2023 and the rebels hijacked a 2 vehicles owned by Hello Trust.

Brief History

In 1988, the Siad Barre regime launched a clampdown against the Hargeisa-based Somali National Movement (SNM) and other rebel outfits, which were among the events that led to the Somali Civil War. The conflict left the economic and military infrastructure severely damaged. After the collapse of the central government in 1991, the local government, led by the SNM, declared independence from the rest of Somalia on 18 May of the same year.

Since then, the territory has been governed by an administration that seeks self-determination as the Republic of Somaliland. The local government maintains informal ties with some foreign governments, who have sent delegations to Hargeisa. Ethiopia also maintains a trade office in the region. However, Somaliland's self-proclaimed independence remains unrecognized by any country or international organization. It is a member of the Unrepresented Nations and Peoples Organization, whose members consist of indigenous peoples, minorities, and unrecognized or occupied territories.

Geography

Somaliland is situated in northwestern Somalia. It lies between the 08°00' - 11°30' parallel north of the equator and between 42°30' - 49°00' meridian east of Greenwich. Somaliland is bordered by Ethiopia in the south and west, Djibouti in the northwest, the Gulf of Aden in the north, and the autonomous Puntland region of Somalia to the east.

The northern part of the region is hilly, and in many places the altitude ranges between 900 and 2,100 metres above sea level. The Awdal, Sahil and Maroodi Jeex (Woqooyi Galbeed) regions are fertile and mountainous, while Togdheer is mostly semi-desert with little fertile greenery around. The Awdal region is also known for its offshore islands, coral reefs and mangroves. A scrub-covered, semi-desert plain referred as the Guban lies parallel to the Gulf of Aden littoral. With a width of twelve kilometers in the west to as little as two kilometers in the east, the plain is bisected by watercourses that are essentially beds of dry sand except during the rainy seasons. Cal Madow is a mountain range in the northern part of the country. Extending from the northwest of Erigavo to several kilometers west of the city of Bosaso, it features Somalia's highest peak, Shimbiris, which sits at an elevation of about 2,416 metres. The rugged east-west ranges of the Karkaar Mountains also lie to the interior of the Gulf of Aden littoral. In the central regions, the northern mountain ranges give way to shallow plateaus and typically dry watercourses that are referred to locally as the Ogo.

Regions

• Awdal
• Sanaagh
• Sool
• Togdheer
• Woqooyi Galbeed

Cities

• Hargeisa - the capital and perhaps the safest city in the entire region. It's rather cosmopolitan and with a rich history and culture.
• Berbera - nicknamed beach city, is a major port and, apart from expatriate remittances, the economic lifeline of the Somaliland economy.
• Borama
• Burao

Sights and Activities

• The capital, Hargeisa, has a provincial museum. There is also a menagerie that includes lions, leopards, antelopes, birds, and reptiles.
• Laas Geel - one of, if not the best examples of prehistoric cave art on the African continent. Located just outside Hargeisa. Government limits access to caves so it's best to get tickets in advance.
• Naasa Hablood - twin hills outside of Hargeisa that Somalis consider as a natural landmark.

Weather

Somaliland is located north of the Equator. It is semi-arid. The average daily temperatures range from 25 to 35 °C. The sun passes vertically overhead twice a year, on 22 March and 23 September. Somaliland consists of three main topographic zones: (1). A Coastal Plain (Guban) (2) The Coastal Range (Oogo) (3) A Plateau (Hawd) The Coastal Plain (Guban) is a zone with high temperatures and low rainfall. Summer temperatures in the region easily average over 38 °C. However, temperatures come down during the winter, and both human and livestock populations increase dramatically in the region.

The Coastal Range (Ogo) is a high plateau to the immediate south of Guban. Its elevation ranges from 1,800 metres above sea level in the West to 2,100 metres in the East. Rainfall is heavier there than in Guban, although it varies considerably within the zone. The Plateau (Hawd) region lies to the south of Ogo range. It is generally more heavily populated during the wet season, when surface water is available. It is also an important area for grazing. Somalilanders recognize four seasons in the year; GU and Hagaa comprise spring and summer in that order, and Dayr and Jiilaal correspond to autumn and winter respectively.[citation needed]

The average annual rainfall is 446 millimetres in some parts of country according to availability of rain gauge, and most of it comes during Gu and Dayr. Gu, which is the first, or major, rainy season (late March, April, May, and early June), experiences the heaviest rainfall in Ogo range and Hawd. This constitutes the period of fresh grazing and abundant surface water. It is also the breeding season for livestock. Hagaa (from late June through August) is usually dry although there are often some scattered showers in the Ogo range, these are known as Karan rains. Hagaa tends to be hot and windy in most parts of the country. Deyr (September, October, and early November), which roughly corresponds to autumn, is the second, or minor, wet season; as the word “minor” suggests, the amount of precipitation is generally less than that of Gu. Jilaal, or winter, falls in the coolest and driest months of the year (from late November to early March). It is a season of thirst. Hawd receive virtually no rainfall in winter. The rainfall in the Guban zone, known as “Hays”, comes from December to February. The humidity of the country varies from 63% in the dry season to 82% in the wet season.

Getting There

By Plane

There is an international airport in Hargeisa with flights to and from Dubai, Djibouti City, and many other cities and towns across the Horn of Africa and the Somaliland region. There is also an international airport at Berbera with many international flights, most notably to Dubai. Some 'flights' from Hargeisa start with a bus ride to Berbera. If you are not Somali you may have difficulty getting through the police checkpoints unless you have written permission from the commander of police or take an armed guard (the Jubba flight from Hargeisa to Dubai is like this).

Daallo Airlines is wildly inconsistent, so Jubba Airways or African Express from either Dubai or Djibouti is your best bet. They have several flights a week and connect Hargeisa to Djibouti, Dubai, Nairobi and Entebbe. Djibouti to Hargeisa is about an hour-long flight. Dubai to Berbera takes three hours.

All flights to and from Somaliland are expensive by most standards - there are no budget airlines. The cheapest flights will be to and from Djibouti, usually around US$125 one-way when taxes and fees are figured in (but not including the entry/exit visa and exchange fees, which will tack on about another US$100 to any trip).

The most reliable way to get in seems to be with African Express, which has connections in Dubai, Nairobi, and other smaller Middle Eastern and East African ports of call. Tickets can be reserved in advance, but not purchased unless you are at their ticketing office - check back in to ensure you have a seat reserved if you will not be in the city you fly out of before your flight!

• African Express is a Kenyan airline that flies to/from Berbera, primarily from Mogadishu, Nairobi and Dubai, but also less frequently from smaller locations such as Sharjah, Entebbe or Jeddah. Major routes use MD-82 jets, shorter hops may be on a DC-9 or 120-ER.
• Jubba Airways is a Somali airline. Their flights go from Hargeisa and Berbera. They use a Soviet-made Ilyushin-18 aircraft. They are one of the two airline to/from Somaliland that accepts online booking reservations, but confirm with them seven days in advance before flying. Jubba Airways usually waits until enough people have purchased tickets before departing. You may be waiting a week or more for a flight, regardless of whether you have a ticket or not.
• Daallo Airlines used to be the only international carrier to fly to Somaliland or the former Somalia. They are famed for inconsistent service. They operate 2-3 services per week from Djibouti also using an Ilyushin-18 aircraft.
• FlyDubai flies two to three flights per week from Somaliland. As of June 2016, they were operating in Hargeisa and are the second airlines operating in Somaliland to accept online reservations.
• Ethiopian Air has regular flights to the border city of Jijiga. From Jijiga, Hargeisa is a few hours away by taxi.

Again, remember to re-confirm all flights 7 days in advance! All of the airlines above will not hesitate to sell your ticket to someone else if you don't take the warning seriously, Jubba in particular. Ticket offices are closed on Friday (the beginning of the weekend in the Islamic world). Plan accordingly.

By Car

It is possible to enter Somaliland from Ethiopia by road. You can avoid paying many of the fees charged at the airport. However, if you plan to leave Somaliland by road it is advisable to make Ethiopian visa arrangements (multiple entry) before travelling to Somaliland as the process of getting an Ethiopian visa in Hargeisa can be quite cumbersome and time-consuming. As of January 2012, the Ethiopian visa in Hargeisa was easy to get, required no paperwork and was available in one morning - cost US$20.

It is not possible to enter from Somalia, so don't even try.

Another option is the open border to the north to Djibouti. In 2009, public transport 4x4s left Djibouti every day in the late afternoon and travelled across the desert throughout the night to arrive in Hargeisa the next morning. They left from Avenue 26 in Djibouti City, at a price of 5500 DJF.

Despite efforts, there are still mines on some of the roads, look out for coloured rocks next to the road, if you see painted rocks do not leave the tarmac.

Getting Around

To travel outside of major cities, the central government requires foreigners to take an armed guard with them.

By Car

Hitchhiking is possible near and within cities. Locals are friendly and will go out of their way to ensure that you make it to your destination. You will be offered telephone numbers to call for help, free food, and asked lots of questions about your home country. Hitchhiking between cities is less advisable. To travel outside of major cities, the central government requires foreigners to take an armed guard with them.

By Bus

There is a bus service in Hargeisa, Burao, Berbera and Borama. There are also services between the major towns and adjacent villages operated by different types of vehicles such as 4-wheel drives and light goods vehicles (LGV).

Red Tape

You must have a Somaliland visa to enter. Visas from Somalia are not accepted. Most travellers get a visa in Addis Ababa in Ethiopia or the Somaliland Mission in London. You can get details from the Somaliland government website or contact the Somaliland liaison office in Addis Ababa. To get to the office, which moves often (this information is current as of January 2016), walk about 100 metres north of the Edna Mall along Namibia Avenue until you see Sheger Building on your left. Turn right here at a small road that should have a sign for the embassy. Walk along the dirt road for 300-400 metres until you see another sign on your right. Turn right there and you will see the embassy. The embassy officially opens at 08:30 but the best time to turn up is between 09:30 and 10:00 as the ambassador often turns up around 09:30. The embassy is open on Fridays but not Saturday, Sunday or Ethiopian holidays. Visas cost US$70 and are issued on the spot. You will also need a passport photo, a copy of your passport (available for 1 birr at the mall before the turn or at the Sheger Building). You are issued a visa and a letter indicating that you should not pay anything at the border when entering the country. A Somaliland visa is also allegedly available from the Somaliland representation in Djibouti. The Somaliland mission in London and New Zealand will also issue a visa. The whole process is refreshingly unbureaucratic and can be handled by post, which makes London the most convenient place to get a visa for travellers who live in Europe and/or want to obtain a visa before travelling to the region.

Money

See also Money Matters

Eat

For breakfast, Somalis eat a flat bread called laxoox and cereal or porridge made of millet or cornmeal. They also eat rice or noodles with sauce or meat for lunch. Pasta became very popular under Italian rule. Bananas are common in the south of the region. A traditional soup called maraq (also part of Yemen cuisine) is made of vegetables, meat and beans and is usually eaten with flat bread or pitta bread. Beans are usually eaten for dessert, and oat or corn patties and salad can be eaten too.

Somalis occasionally eat xalwo, a jelly-like sweet made with water, sugar, and honey, though peanuts are sometimes added. Somalis who have spent some time in the Middle East eat baklava. Dates are also popular in Somaliland.

In coastal areas, roasted camel meat, camel milk, fried sheep liver and all kinds of fresh seafood are popular.

It is considered polite for guests to leave a little bit of food on their plate after finishing a meal provided by their host. This shows that the guests were given enough food and thus treated hospitably.

Sleep

There are hotels being constructed in all of Somaliland's major cities. Hargeisa has seen most development.

Drink

Many Somalis adore spiced tea. Milk is also common in rural areas of Somaliland. Alcohol is prohibited and you will not find it publicly served anywhere in Somaliland.

Health

Locals in Hargeisa drink tap water fixed by the Chinese government. The cleanliness is not perfect but adequate. However, it is better to play it safe and drink bottled water.

As with many developing countries, animals roam the streets and sanitation is poor. Be very aware of the risk of rabies. Bats may inhabit the countryside, and their bites can be nearly invisible, leaving a person unaware until it's too late.

There is a low risk of malaria in Somaliland, but the threat is still present. Many foreigners choose not to take anti-malarials.

Yellow fever is considered endemic in Somaliland. If you plan to travel to other countries that require proof of yellow fever vaccination, be sure you are vaccinated and have a certificate!

Vaccination against other endemic diseases common in developing countries (typhoid, polio, hepatitis A & B, etc.) is strongly recommended.

The infrastructure of Somaliland is still a shambles and that includes healthcare. If you have health problems or have concerns about getting treatment in an emergency, you will be putting yourself at great risk as the medical services in most areas are primitive and unsanitary by modern standards.

The most modernized and prominent hospital is the Edna Adan University Hospital in Hargeisa. However, it's mostly a maternity hospital and medical treatment there, although the staff are excellent, is limited by the serious dearth of resources in the country.

Safety

Somaliland is a relatively safe place, particularly compared to neighbouring Somalia. Knowing a little of the local language or having an interpreter can go a long way in gaining information from the local population, which is a valuable tool if you wish learn about the surrounding area.

Imprisonment and/or execution is the punishment for homosexuality here. So if you are gay and decide to visit, keep your sexual orientation secret.

The Somaliland government requires that all foreigners take armed guards when travelling outside of the major cities. These guards are known as SPUs (Special Protection Units) and are available from the local police department or the office of tourism in Hargeisa. The UN typically pays US$5 a day per SPU, but as a tourist it will be difficult to negotiate this price. SPUs will try to charge you anywhere from US$30 to US$40 a day, but US$15 a day is reasonable for both parties.

Under some circumstances it is possible to travel around Somaliland without an SPU. To do this you will need a letter from the commander of police. This can be obtained from the police HQ in Hargeysa (not the police station). Take the minibus to 'pepsi' (pronounced with a strong 'p') from the centre of town and get off just after you cross the dry river bed; the police station is on the right hand side of the road. The commander leaves at 11am each day so you will need to turn up in the morning and you may have to argue with the guard at the gate to be allowed in; they may try to send you to the SPU building round the corner. Stand firm and insist on seeing the Commander's secretary. The commander's secretary is very helpful and used to sorting this out. Give him the names of everywhere you wish to go and he will type up the letter and get the commander to sign it. Currently it's easy to get permission to travel to Berbera and Djibouti, other destinations may be harder and the situation may change.

The Republic of Somaliland is not recognized by any government. If you run into legal problems you are on your own, as there are no consulates to turn to for help. Learning local customs and laws is very important if you wish to minimize the chances of conflict with local authorities.

Keep Connected

Phone

See also International Telephone Calls

External Links