British Indian Ocean Territory

Introduction

The British Indian Ocean Territory (BIOT), also called the Chagos Islands, is a British overseas territory. It is not known as a destination for travellers. In fact, it is very hard to get to at all, as the main atoll, Diego Garcia, is also a joint military facility of the USA and the UK. Although the total land area is only about 60 square kilometres, the area including territorial waters is around 15,000 square kilometres. The total population is estimated at about 3,500 inhabitants, mainly civilian contractors and both US and UK military personnel.

Brief History

Maldivian mariners knew the Chagos Islands well. In Maldivian lore, they are known as Fōlhavahi or Hollhavai (the latter name in the closer Southern Maldives). According to Southern Maldivian oral tradition, traders and fishermen were occasionally lost at sea and got stranded on one of the islands of the Chagos. Eventually they were rescued and brought back home. However, these islands were judged to be too far away from the Maldives to be settled permanently by them. Thus, for many centuries the Chagos were ignored by their northern neighbours.

The islands of Chagos Archipelago were charted by Vasco da Gama in the early sixteenth century, then claimed in the eighteenth century by France as a possession of Mauritius. They were first settled in the 18th century by African slaves and Indian contractors brought by Franco-Mauritians to found coconut plantations. In 1810, Mauritius was captured by the United Kingdom, and France ceded the territory in the Treaty of Paris.

In 1965, the United Kingdom split the Chagos Archipelago from Mauritius and the islands of Aldabra, Farquhar and Desroches (Des Roches) from the Seychelles to form the British Indian Ocean Territory. The purpose was to allow the construction of military facilities for the mutual benefit of the United Kingdom and the United States. The islands were formally established as an overseas territory of the United Kingdom on 8 November 1965. On 23 June 1976, Aldabra, Farquhar and Desroches were returned to Seychelles as a result of its attaining independence. Subsequently, BIOT has consisted only of the six main island groups comprising the Chagos Archipelago.

In 1990, the first BIOT flag was unfurled. This flag, as well as containing the flag of the United Kingdom, has depictions of the Indian Ocean, where the islands are located, in the form of white and blue wavy lines and also a palm tree rising above the British crown.

Geography

BIOT is an archipelago of 55 islands. They were annexed by the UK in 1965 under the Treaty of Paris from a much larger archipelago which in 1804 consisted of 2,300 independent islands. BIOT is situated in the Indian Ocean near the Equator. It is roughly halfway between Africa and Indonesia, about 1,600 kilometres southwest of India. It is situated approximately 1,600 kilometres from South India and 600 kilometres to the south of the Maldives With a coastline stretching 698 kilometres, it is the southern extension of the Chagos-Laccadive Ridge. The Chagos Islands archipelago are northeast of Mauritius, while Agalega Islands are due north. The islands are characterised as coral atolls whose formation occurred at the summits of volcanic mountains these being submerged. The terrain is flat and low, with most areas not exceeding 2 metres above sea level. The climate is tropical marine; hot, humid, and moderated by trade winds. It is located outside the route of the cyclones.

The lagoon that surrounds the atoll has an area of about 120 square kilometres (46 sq mi). The maximum water depth in the lagoon is about 25 metres. The width of the coral reef varies from 100–200 metres with a shallow depth of about 1 metre on the seaward side. The area covered by the fringing seaward reef shelf is about 35.2 square kilometres. The bed slope noted at the outer edge of the reef shelf is steep towards the deeper end; the depth drops to more than 450 metres in some areas within 1 kilometre distance from the shore.

In 2010, the whole territory, as well as 545,000 square kilometres of ocean around the islands, was declared a marine reserve. It is known formally as the Chagos Marine Protected Area, because it is a "pristine ocean ecosystem now representing 16% of the world's fully protected coral reef." Fishing is banned within the reserve area. Diego Garcia is a Ramsar site.

Of the 55 islands of the Chagos Archipelago, Diego Garcia is the largest. Aside from this, the main islands are the Egmont Islands, Danger Island, Aigle (Eagle) Islands, Three Brothers, Nelson Island, Salomon Islands, and Peros Banhos at the northern end of the Chagos Archipelago.

The coral atoll of Diego Garcia is approximately 3,650 kilometres east of the coast of Africa (at Tanzania), 1,791 kilometres south-southwest of the southern tip of India (at Kanyakumari) and 4,720 kilometres west-northwest of the west coast of Australia (at Cape Range National Park, Western Australia). Diego Garcia lies at the southernmost tip of the Chagos-Laccadive Ridge — a vast submarine range in the Indian Ocean. The total area encompassed by the atoll is 169.6 square kilometres. At the entrance to the lagoon, there are three small islands, and these are East Island (7.49 hectares), Middle Island (4.98 hectares), and West Island (2 hectares). In some areas, the atoll has both marshes and wetlands. The ecosystem consists of undisturbed tropical forests

The Peros Banhos Islands, which are the largest group on the Chagos Bank, consists of 27 islands scattered around the rim of an immense lagoon, which has a perimeter of 12 leagues (58 kilometres) and enclosed some 310 square kilometres of water. They consist of several groups of islets and reefs; deep channels separate them. They had a population of some 400 islanders before the evacuation in 1965, the largest number living on Île du Coin in the southwest corner of the atoll (in the previous century, the dominant island was Île Diamant in the northwest corner of the atoll); in all, there were seven inhabited islands.

Some 25 kilometres east of Peros Panhos Atoll, the smaller Salomon group comprises eleven islands clustered around a lagoon measuring 8 km long and 5 km wide. Prior to the removal of its population, six of the islands were inhabited with a total of about 250 islanders. Île Boddam in the southwest was the principal settlement, while Île Takamaka in the east wasc the centre of boatbuilding for the archipelago.

Lying between Diego Garcia in the south, and the Peros Banhos and Salomon Atolls in the north, the remaining coralline islands are scattered over a wide area of the Great Chagos Bank, an area of atolls, reefs and shoals with an average depth of water of some 20 metres. Uninhabited Île Nelson lies 35 kilometres south of Salomon Atoll. A hundred km to the southwest of Nelson are the 3 islands of Trois Frères, which were briefly inhabited in the 19th century. Further west lies the Île d'Aigle, which was inhabited until 1935. Île Vache Marine, the southernmost of the Eagle Islands, lies south.

Île Danger, 20 kilometres south of Île d'Aigle, has never been inhabited; it is a 2 kilometres long and flat island with a maximum width of 400 metres. It is covered with tall coconut trees and shrubs.

Finally, Six Îles Atoll (also called Egmont), 5 leagues (24 kilometres) further south of Danger, was also occupied for short periods during the mid 19th century until 1935. Besides the six named islands, the atoll also includes a seventh unnamed island. The atoll, in the form of “U”, is a small strip of land with width varying from 30 metres to a maximum of 3 kilometres (1.9 mi) at its northern extremity. The total land area of the atoll is 2,430 hectares. A fringing reef circumscribes the atoll. There are two openings into the ocean. It almost encompasses a large lagoon. The lagoon itself is 20 kilometres in length and is more than 10 kilometres in width. Rounded pumic stones found on the eastern beach of the island by one of the explorers of the island have been inferred as debris from the Krakatoa volcanic eruption of 1883. The atoll is 23 leagues (110 kilometres) to the northwest of Diego Garcia, on the Great Chagos Bank. The islands are connected by reefs which are steep and there are no locations for anchorage on its shores.

Regions

• Diego Garcia - the largest island, atoll and functioning as the capital.

Sights and Activities

Outer Islands

• Ruins of a church on Boddam IslandÎle Boddam (Boddam Island). Formerly home to a plantation, whose buildings, including a church, are now overgrown by jungle. The ruins here include old rail tracks and a cemetery. Some of the buildings have been converted into a so-called "yacht club", which has a log book where you can sign your name.
• Île du Coin. The main island in Peros Banhos atoll, formerly home to the Perch Settlement. The atoll's coconut plantations, which were scattered on several of its islands, were run from here. Ruins include buildings and a cemetery.
• Île Mapou (Salomon Atoll). Has the most birds of any island in Salomon Atoll because it's rat-free.
• Wreck of the Black Rose. A wrecked ship on the northernmost beach of Île Fouquet (Salomon Atoll).
• Snorkel – the marine life is spectacular. Beware of sharks, though.
• Go for a hike through the coconut jungles, ruined buildings, and pristine beaches.

Diego Garcia

• The clear blue water on the lagoon side of Diego Garcia (except after stormy weather).
• Catalina Beach (near The Plantation). The beach with a wrecked aircraft.
• The Plantation. A former coconut plantation on the eastern end of Diego Garcia, out of use since 1970. The buildings have been restored.
• Turtle Cove (south of the island). Watch the endangered turtles hanging out, as well as lemon sharks, blacktip reef sharks, and cowtail stingrays.
• Plantation Trail – a walk to the beach, a little over ten minutes, that allows you to see various native trees, ferns and coconut crabs. Non-native trees have been cleared and native trees planted - most of the work, including the construction of the trail, has been done by volunteers. The trail includes a loop, so you can see a different area on the way back. Informative signs at the beginning of the trail tell you about the tree species you'll see.
• Snorkel Trail – follow a series of nine buoys over a shallow area of water where you can see a beautiful coral ecosystem. Masks and snorkels are available from the marina office.

Events and Festivals

The regular UK holidays apply here too.

Weather

All precipitation falls as rain, characterised by air mass-type showers. Annual rainfall averages 2,213 mm (87.1 in), with the heaviest precipitation from May to December. February is the driest month with 18 mm of rain, and August the wettest month, averaging 298 mm of rain.

The surrounding sea surface temperature is the primary climatic control, and temperatures are generally uniform throughout the year, with an average maximum of 30 °C by day during March and April, and 29 °C in July through September. Diurnal variation is roughly 3-4 °C, falling to the low 27 °C by night. Humidity is high throughout the year. The almost constant breeze keeps conditions reasonably comfortable.

From December through March, winds are generally westerly around 11 km/h. During April and May, winds are light and variable, ultimately backing to an east-southeasterly direction. From June through September, the influence of the Southeast trades is felt, with speeds of 10-15 knots. During October and November, winds again go through a period of light and variable conditions veering to a westerly direction with the onset of summer in the Southern Hemisphere.

Thunderstorm activity is generally noticed during the afternoon and evenings during the summer months (December through March) and when the Intertropical Convergence Zone is in the vicinity of the island.

Diego Garcia is at minimum risk from tropical cyclones due to its proximity to the equator where the coriolis parameter required to organise circulation of the upper atmosphere is minimal. Low-intensity storms have hit the island, including one in 1901, which blew over 1,500 coconut trees; one on September 16, 1944, which caused the wreck of a Royal Air Force PBY Catalina; one in September 1990 which demolished the tent city then being constructed for United States Air Force bomber crews during Operation Desert Storm; and one on July 22, 2007, when winds exceeded 110 km/h and over 250 mm of rain fell in 24 hours.

Getting There

If you need to make a stop in the territory as part of a longer Indian Ocean sailing trip, there are some designated locations on the outer islands for you to moor. Valid yacht mooring permits for up to 28 days can be obtained from the British Indian Ocean Territory Administration, Foreign & Commonwealth Office, for a fee of £50 per week. Details here. The mooring permits allow you to moor only at designated anchorages; some of the other islands are strict nature reserves and may not be entered. Apply at least six weeks before you plan to arrive in the territory. In order to get a permit, your passport must have at least six months' validity from your date of entry into the territory, and you must prove that mooring there is necessary for your safe passage across the Indian Ocean and demonstrate proof of adequate travel insurance and yacht insurance.

Your permit is only valid for the specified dates. If weather or other circumstances force you to change your dates of travel, you must contact the territory administration before the date on the permit and ask them to amend it. Don't moor in the territory outside the dates you have permission for.

The designated anchorages are five specific areas, two on islands in the Salomon Islands atoll and three on islands in Peros Banhos atoll. Exact details will be provided by the BIOT administration with your permit. Ile Boddam (Salomon), Ile Fouquet and Ile Takamaka (Salomon), Ile Diamante (Peros Banhos), Ile du Coin (Peros Banhos), and Ile Fouquet (Peros Banhos).

Several of the other islands are strict nature reserves. You may not anchor, land, or approach within three nautical miles of these islands: Cow Island, Danger Island and the drying coral reef, Eagle Island, Nelson's Island, and the Three Brothers and Resurgent Island. In addition, the eastern portion of Peros Banhos atoll is equally off limits. All wildlife on and around these islands is protected. Anyone who violates these rules by approaching the islands may be fined £1,000 on the spot, with increasing penalties if you fail to pay.

Diego Garcia is a military facility with a large American and British military presence. Entry is restricted to military personnel and other people affiliated with the British government, visiting on official duty. The island has both a military airport and a harbour, but unauthorised vessels are strictly prohibited from approaching within three nautical miles.

Getting Around

With the exception of one two-lane motorway, most of the islands in the territory have no roads of any sort. Diego Garcia has a short stretch of paved road between the port and airfield; otherwise transport is mostly by bicycle. There is also a marina bus service along the main road of the Island of Diego Garcia.

Red Tape

Entry to Diego Garcia is extremely limited due to the large American and British military presence on the island. The British Indian Ocean Territory is not a tourist destination. Access is restricted and a permit is required in advance of travel. There are no commercial flights and permits are only issued to yachts in safe passage. Access to Diego Garcia is only permitted to those with connections to the military facility.

A valid entry permit can be obtained from the British Indian Ocean Territory Administration, Foreign & Commonwealth Office; although proof of adequate travel insurance and yacht insurance is required before permit issue, and any permit issued would only be valid for the outer islands.

Money

See also: Money Matters

Oddly enough, the US Dollar, or "greenback", is officially the national currency of the British Indian Ocean Territory. One dollar consists of 100 cents. Frequently used coins are the penny (1¢), nickel (5¢), dime (10¢) and quarter (25¢). 50¢ and $1 coins also exist, but are rarely used. Frequently used banknotes are the $1, $5, $10 and $20 notes. $2, $50 and $100 notes can also be found, but are rarely used.

Language

English is the main language.

Eat

Independent yachters must be self-sufficient, so bring whatever food you need. You are allowed to catch fish for your own consumption within three days. Use a rod or line only; spear fishing is strictly prohibited. Keep a log of your fishing in case the British government asks to see it.

Don't bring any fresh food ashore with you, for fear of accidentally spreading non-native seeds or small animals.

Sleep

On the outer islands, you're not allowed to remain on shore between sunset and sunrise, or set up any kind of camp or structure. So you'll be sleeping on your boat.

Drink

Most of the islands have old wells with fresh water, including Ile Boddam, Ile Takamaka, and Ile du Coin. The water isn't drinkable, but it is usable for washing and can be filtered and purified.

Health

See also Travel Health

Safety

See also Travel Safety

The old buildings on Ile du Coin and Ile Boddam are structurally unsafe, and visitors enter at their own risk.

The territory is tightly controlled, with fines and possible imprisonment for violations of its numerous rules. Do not go within three nautical miles of the strict nature reserves or Diego Garcia; kill, remove, or disturb any flora or fauna (except the limited fishing that is permitted), including shells; introduce any foreign flora or fauna (including pets, which must remain on your boat); stay ashore overnight; do anything that risks damaging the old buildings; leave behind garbage except in designated receptacles; import drugs; or go diving.

The territory is very remote, and no medical facilities are available. Be prepared to get a medical evacuation if you need it.

If you have an emergency, you can contact Diego Garcia for assistance on 2.182MHz HF SSB or 00 246 3702938.

Keep Connected

Internet

Internet and wifi is available.

Phone

See also International Telephone Calls

The island's international telephone code is 246.

Separate telephone facilities for military and public needs are available, providing all standard commercial telephone services, including connection to the Internet. International telephone service is carried via satellite.

Services offered include international telephone, broadband internet and WiFi, GSM mobile, paging services and TV rebroadcast services. Telephone and internet services are also offered to maritime customers as well as an extensive portfolio of services to business and Government customers.

Post

Postage stamps have been issued for British Indian Ocean Territory since 17 January 1968. As the territory was originally part of the Seychelles, these stamps were denominated in rupees until 1992. However, after that date they were issued in denominations of British Pounds, the official currency of the territory.

External Links